Parging basement walls -DIY

[JHZR2]

Hi,

The unknown age parging (finish concrete over a steel mesh) is coming off all over my basement and allowing water leaks/mold in some spots. I wouldn't mind doing it myself, doesn't have to be pretty, just correct... Anyone do this DIY? Please do tell.

 

[StevieC]

Dad and I have repaired sections on the house out in the country that has this.

It's pretty easy to replace once you have the old stuff out.

Be sure to fix the leak though so it doesn't ruin this repair.

 

[mechtech2]

Do you mean plaster walls?
Floor?

 

[Win]

I'm not familiar with that construction method, but there is a product that I have always called hydraulic cement that will set up in water and can be used to plug leaks even while water is streaming out of a hole under pressure.

Probably any hardware store will have it. I find it to be a bit pricey, but it will definitely plug a hole or crack in a wall against hydraulic pressure.

 

[JHZR2]

I think it is called parging... We have poured walls for our basement. They took a steel mesh over the walls, then coated that in some finishing cement (hydraulic???), to make smooth, consistent surfaces and then painted with waterproofing paint... But it looks like the steel is coming away from the walls, and water is leaking through small holes in this parging in a few spots...

 

[StevieC]

How old is the house? Most likely you have concrete blocks and then stucco using a wire mesh and a liquid type of cement.

It would have to be super old not to have concrete blocks behind the mesh/cement stucco.

Steve

 

[JHZR2]

I've never seen block around in our area. My home is somewhere around 80yo. Even my parents country place built in the early 80s was poured.

Mine has brick in the exposed areas, but since the inside is stuccoed, as described, I don't know if that goes all the way down...

 

[Win]

Concrete blocks painted with water resistant (lol) paint were the construction method for the basement at our primary residence which was built in the late 50's.

Holes, cracks, and other breaches can be plugged very easily and effectively in this type of material with hydraulic cement. I suppose if one was really concerned with appearance, it could be smoothed and painted.

I would probably want to get all that material off the walls and see what I had and then go from there.

Our new secondary house has poured concrete walls in its below grade areas, they are either unfinished, or firred (sp?) out in the living areas that are below grade.

 

[JHZR2]

No concrete blocks...

 

[StevieC]

That is interesting... The house my folks are in now was built in the 50's-ish era and has blocks with mesh/stucco cement finish.

 

[Win]

Well, I don't know why the hydraulic cement would not work in poured concrete.

Given how developed the rest of your property is, I think I would stongly consider stripping the ornamental finish off those poured walls, observe the leaks, and go after them with hydraulic cement. You may not need to do anything else.

 

[simple_gifts]

I had my the portion of my chimney (in the basement) parged. The masons repointed the chimney, wrapped it with steel mesh (chimney supports the house) and then applied, what they told me was, an acrylic mortar, not concrete. Not super helpful, but it may point you somewhere.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubb...762#Post1987762

 

[Bluestream]

Parging is not the answer to water leakage. Parging is for cosmetic reasons only. If you have a leak, you must find the crack in the foundation and inject epoxy into it from the inside, or excavate the exterior foundation wall and repair from outside. Parging may help temporarily, and it will leak again in time.

 

[Audi Junkie]

You may need to divert your roof drains farther from the structure or ideally into the sewer.


The easiest way to achieve the best bonding and water resistance is to simply mix in a bag of sanded tile grout with the bag of "masons mix" concrete. The tile grout has the acrylic add mix included and will promote better bond, longevity and workability.

Just chip away ALL loose mortar, rinse out if desired and let dry THOROUGHLY. Mix the cement with minimal water and let it sit for a while to slake. Fluff it occasionally.

Apply by pushing the mortar off a square trowel or hawk into the crack with the pointed trowel.

 

[LS2JSTS]

Originally Posted By: Audi Junkie
You may need to divert your roof drains farther from the structure or ideally into the sewer.


The easiest way to achieve the best bonding and water resistance is to simply mix in a bag of sanded tile grout with the bag of "masons mix" concrete. The tile grout has the acrylic add mix included and will promote better bond, longevity and workability.

Just chip away ALL loose mortar, rinse out if desired and let dry THOROUGHLY. Mix the cement with minimal water and let it sit for a while to slake. Fluff it occasionally.

Apply by pushing the mortar off a square trowel or hawk into the crack with the pointed trowel.

All those tools and some big Popeye forearms.

 

[JHZR2]

FWIW, this is what I am dealing with...

 

[mechtech2]

OK.
If you patch that leak, the water may accumulate in the reservoir you just made, with ensuing bigger problems.
Unless you fix the SOURCE, it may bee best to make drain holes at appropriate locations where you can soak the water up.

 

[JHZR2]

There is no leak there actually. That area stays totally dry all the time. It just is developing the mold/mildew like in other areas... I assume underneath it is quite damp, but not to the touch...

 

[SteveSRT8]

Mold/mildew cannot grow without moisture. period.

Bright light and/or air movement will retard growth.

 

[JHZR2]

Not saying there is not moisture. There is just no leak or at least no pass-through of liquid water on the wall where I took a picture.

I'm not keen on a solution where my basement draws as much or more electricity to stay dry than my whole house does... Which Im afraid my current set of dehumidifiers are...