what do you guys think?
No Heat and AC Struggles. 2001 Dodge Caravan.
- Thread starter JMac101
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JMac101, replacing parts without a proper diagnosis can sometimes be futile and expensive (I know from experience). Your motors may have been fine.
I have a factory service manual (FSM) for the '04 to '06 Caravan and I "think" the '01 is in the same generation.
First, I think that a heater core is simply a minature radiator of sorts and there is no "element". Don't waste $$ on swapping it out until you try the following.
The blend doors are electronically operated/adjusted by the temperature control module. Problems to diagnose are 1)recalibration, 2)blend door actuators, and 3) control module.
My FSM says that the A/C-heater control module must be recalibrated each time an actuator motor or the control module is replaced.[/b]The AC/heater control module learns what positions the blend door stops at during the calibration procedure. Any blend door actuator circuit problems will be stored as a diagnostic trouble code (A DRBIIIt scan tool is required).
The blend door actuators cannot be adjusted (they are electronically adjusted) or repaired and they must be replaced if faulty. This is all accessible under the dash and I have the instructions if you need them.
Here are the simple calibration procedures for the MANUAL temp. control module blend door adjustment (tell me if you have the automatic temp control for those instructions):
(1) Turn your ignition switch to the ON position.
(2) Press and hold the Rear Wipe/Wash and Recirculation buttons for at least five seconds. The A/C-heater control Rear Wipe/Wash LED and Recirculation LED graphics will begin to flash when the calibration procedure has begun.
(3) The calibration procedure should take less than
two minutes for the manual A/C-heater control. The calibration is done when the graphics stop flashing.
(4) If the LEDs or graphics continue to flash beyond the two minutes, it indicates that the heater control module has detected a problem and set a diagnostic trouble code. The LEDs or graphics will continue flashing even after the ignition switch is cycled Off and On, until calibration is successful, or until the vehicle has been driven about 8 miles.
GOOD LUCK AND LET US KNOW WHAT HAPPENS. I can assist more with my FSM if required. A code scan will retrieve any problems in the circuits if the calibration fails.
I have a factory service manual (FSM) for the '04 to '06 Caravan and I "think" the '01 is in the same generation.
First, I think that a heater core is simply a minature radiator of sorts and there is no "element". Don't waste $$ on swapping it out until you try the following.
The blend doors are electronically operated/adjusted by the temperature control module. Problems to diagnose are 1)recalibration, 2)blend door actuators, and 3) control module.
My FSM says that the A/C-heater control module must be recalibrated each time an actuator motor or the control module is replaced.[/b]The AC/heater control module learns what positions the blend door stops at during the calibration procedure. Any blend door actuator circuit problems will be stored as a diagnostic trouble code (A DRBIIIt scan tool is required).
The blend door actuators cannot be adjusted (they are electronically adjusted) or repaired and they must be replaced if faulty. This is all accessible under the dash and I have the instructions if you need them.
Here are the simple calibration procedures for the MANUAL temp. control module blend door adjustment (tell me if you have the automatic temp control for those instructions):
(1) Turn your ignition switch to the ON position.
(2) Press and hold the Rear Wipe/Wash and Recirculation buttons for at least five seconds. The A/C-heater control Rear Wipe/Wash LED and Recirculation LED graphics will begin to flash when the calibration procedure has begun.
(3) The calibration procedure should take less than
two minutes for the manual A/C-heater control. The calibration is done when the graphics stop flashing.
(4) If the LEDs or graphics continue to flash beyond the two minutes, it indicates that the heater control module has detected a problem and set a diagnostic trouble code. The LEDs or graphics will continue flashing even after the ignition switch is cycled Off and On, until calibration is successful, or until the vehicle has been driven about 8 miles.
GOOD LUCK AND LET US KNOW WHAT HAPPENS. I can assist more with my FSM if required. A code scan will retrieve any problems in the circuits if the calibration fails.
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ok I will try the calibration that you stated. As for trouble codes, I have a code scanner and no codes come back so far. I will keep you updated though.
There may be special procedures for using the DBRIII scanner. The manual says that the faults will not be displayed as a code, but rather as a text message. This contradicts what I posted above about codes. I only glanced through the manual and I may be wrong.
I located the heater core and I can access it without removing the dash board which is great. Im going to try to replace the heater core by the end of august. Id like to replace the blend door while Im in there, however I cannot find its location and I cannot find it anywhere to order it. Is the blend door a part I need to order right from dodge?
Anyone have any idea what the blend door costs? and the exact name of it?
Thanks
Anyone have any idea what the blend door costs? and the exact name of it?
Thanks
Originally Posted By: doitmyself
JMac101, replacing parts without a proper diagnosis can sometimes be futile and expensive (I know from experience). Your motors may have been fine.
I have a factory service manual (FSM) for the '04 to '06 Caravan and I "think" the '01 is in the same generation.
First, I think that a heater core is simply a minature radiator of sorts and there is no "element". Don't waste $$ on swapping it out until you try the following.
The blend doors are electronically operated/adjusted by the temperature control module. Problems to diagnose are 1)recalibration, 2)blend door actuators, and 3) control module.
My FSM says that the A/C-heater control module must be recalibrated each time an actuator motor or the control module is replaced.[/b]The AC/heater control module learns what positions the blend door stops at during the calibration procedure. Any blend door actuator circuit problems will be stored as a diagnostic trouble code (A DRBIIIt scan tool is required).
The blend door actuators cannot be adjusted (they are electronically adjusted) or repaired and they must be replaced if faulty. This is all accessible under the dash and I have the instructions if you need them.
Here are the simple calibration procedures for the MANUAL temp. control module blend door adjustment (tell me if you have the automatic temp control for those instructions):
(1) Turn your ignition switch to the ON position.
(2) Press and hold the Rear Wipe/Wash and Recirculation buttons for at least five seconds. The A/C-heater control Rear Wipe/Wash LED and Recirculation LED graphics will begin to flash when the calibration procedure has begun.
(3) The calibration procedure should take less than
two minutes for the manual A/C-heater control. The calibration is done when the graphics stop flashing.
(4) If the LEDs or graphics continue to flash beyond the two minutes, it indicates that the heater control module has detected a problem and set a diagnostic trouble code. The LEDs or graphics will continue flashing even after the ignition switch is cycled Off and On, until calibration is successful, or until the vehicle has been driven about 8 miles.
GOOD LUCK AND LET US KNOW WHAT HAPPENS. I can assist more with my FSM if required. A code scan will retrieve any problems in the circuits if the calibration fails.
This procedure WORKED on my 08 Grand Chero. Just had to hold the rear defrost and A/C buttons instead of A/C and wiper!!!
Meep
JMac101, replacing parts without a proper diagnosis can sometimes be futile and expensive (I know from experience). Your motors may have been fine.
I have a factory service manual (FSM) for the '04 to '06 Caravan and I "think" the '01 is in the same generation.
First, I think that a heater core is simply a minature radiator of sorts and there is no "element". Don't waste $$ on swapping it out until you try the following.
The blend doors are electronically operated/adjusted by the temperature control module. Problems to diagnose are 1)recalibration, 2)blend door actuators, and 3) control module.
My FSM says that the A/C-heater control module must be recalibrated each time an actuator motor or the control module is replaced.[/b]The AC/heater control module learns what positions the blend door stops at during the calibration procedure. Any blend door actuator circuit problems will be stored as a diagnostic trouble code (A DRBIIIt scan tool is required).
The blend door actuators cannot be adjusted (they are electronically adjusted) or repaired and they must be replaced if faulty. This is all accessible under the dash and I have the instructions if you need them.
Here are the simple calibration procedures for the MANUAL temp. control module blend door adjustment (tell me if you have the automatic temp control for those instructions):
(1) Turn your ignition switch to the ON position.
(2) Press and hold the Rear Wipe/Wash and Recirculation buttons for at least five seconds. The A/C-heater control Rear Wipe/Wash LED and Recirculation LED graphics will begin to flash when the calibration procedure has begun.
(3) The calibration procedure should take less than
two minutes for the manual A/C-heater control. The calibration is done when the graphics stop flashing.
(4) If the LEDs or graphics continue to flash beyond the two minutes, it indicates that the heater control module has detected a problem and set a diagnostic trouble code. The LEDs or graphics will continue flashing even after the ignition switch is cycled Off and On, until calibration is successful, or until the vehicle has been driven about 8 miles.
GOOD LUCK AND LET US KNOW WHAT HAPPENS. I can assist more with my FSM if required. A code scan will retrieve any problems in the circuits if the calibration fails.
This procedure WORKED on my 08 Grand Chero. Just had to hold the rear defrost and A/C buttons instead of A/C and wiper!!!
Meep
Ok heres another update guys:
I checked all my actuator motors - good to go
I checked which motor does what - good to go
I checked if the blend door worked - good to go
Manually opened and closed blend door.
This morning I cut the hoses to the heater core and I poured radiator flush into it and let it sit. I think used a garden hose and flushed through the top port and out of the bottom and then reversed for about 5 minutes back and forth. I had a bunch of broken water come out with many particles. I continued to flush until water ran clean in both directions. I purchased new heater hoses and clamps and re-installed the hoses.
I started the van up and let it warm up, I turned on the heat, both the in and out hoses on the core got hot.
I had a small amount of heat but mostly cold air when the temp knob was turned to heat. I took it for a drive and figured it would warm up, but it didnt. I dont know why but I decided to turn the knob to the cold side but I did not press the snow flake for the ac and to my suprise I could hear the blend door turn over and heat started to come out.
I dont know why or how but I think the motor or something might be reversed. When turned to cold I get heat and when on hot I get cold air.
At first I didnt have any heat and now I do. Not burning hot but a medium warm air from upper and lower vents but when I put it on windshield setting it gets really hot.
Im glad I got the heat working I just dont understand why it is so backwards now. - It used to be a work van and then was given to me and only god knows what was done with it.
Anyone have any clue on what I can check or do to repair this further?
I checked all my actuator motors - good to go
I checked which motor does what - good to go
I checked if the blend door worked - good to go
Manually opened and closed blend door.
This morning I cut the hoses to the heater core and I poured radiator flush into it and let it sit. I think used a garden hose and flushed through the top port and out of the bottom and then reversed for about 5 minutes back and forth. I had a bunch of broken water come out with many particles. I continued to flush until water ran clean in both directions. I purchased new heater hoses and clamps and re-installed the hoses.
I started the van up and let it warm up, I turned on the heat, both the in and out hoses on the core got hot.
I had a small amount of heat but mostly cold air when the temp knob was turned to heat. I took it for a drive and figured it would warm up, but it didnt. I dont know why but I decided to turn the knob to the cold side but I did not press the snow flake for the ac and to my suprise I could hear the blend door turn over and heat started to come out.
I dont know why or how but I think the motor or something might be reversed. When turned to cold I get heat and when on hot I get cold air.
At first I didnt have any heat and now I do. Not burning hot but a medium warm air from upper and lower vents but when I put it on windshield setting it gets really hot.
Im glad I got the heat working I just dont understand why it is so backwards now. - It used to be a work van and then was given to me and only god knows what was done with it.
Anyone have any clue on what I can check or do to repair this further?
*I then used a garden hose
*brown water (not broken water)
SORRY FOR THE TYPOS IM AT WORK AND NOT SUPPOST TO BE ON THE COMP
SORRY FOR THE TYPOS IM AT WORK AND NOT SUPPOST TO BE ON THE COMP
JMac: What happened with the recalibration procedure you were given?
Your system sounds very confused, as if motors are connected to the wrong lines or vent flap calibration is badly needed.
You're so gung ho to jump in a buy a new heater core but it seems like you haven't tried a 2 minute procedure holding down a couple of buttons. If your one floor vent blows scalding hot air in the way you've reported your heater core is doing its job well enough for now - leave it alone until you figure out why all of your blending, mixing and controls aren't doing what they are supposed to.
Your "friends" story about "konked out on its own" is pretty suspicious to me.
Your system sounds very confused, as if motors are connected to the wrong lines or vent flap calibration is badly needed.
You're so gung ho to jump in a buy a new heater core but it seems like you haven't tried a 2 minute procedure holding down a couple of buttons. If your one floor vent blows scalding hot air in the way you've reported your heater core is doing its job well enough for now - leave it alone until you figure out why all of your blending, mixing and controls aren't doing what they are supposed to.
Your "friends" story about "konked out on its own" is pretty suspicious to me.
lol - How are you Vikas?
Craig in Canada:
I did try the calibration test, I held down the defrost and re-circulation buttons and the lights start to blink. I can hear doors opening and shutting and the vent positions switching. All I feel in this process is cold air. It doesnt seem to fix anything and it keeps going for well over 3 minutes, in fact it will keep going until I turn it off or turn the motor off.
Yesterday, instead of buying a heater core I flushed my exsisting core out. I get some heat on upper vents more heat on bottom vents. I flushed the heater core out until rust particles and brown water came out. I flushed it through the top and out of the bottom and then reversed the process until the water ran clear.---Your right about the the story the heat went out on its own is suspicious, but hey it was a work van and giving to me for free theres no telling what contractors did to the van lol.
Your right, but I checked the core, motors and calibration whats next?
I did try the calibration test, I held down the defrost and re-circulation buttons and the lights start to blink. I can hear doors opening and shutting and the vent positions switching. All I feel in this process is cold air. It doesnt seem to fix anything and it keeps going for well over 3 minutes, in fact it will keep going until I turn it off or turn the motor off.
Yesterday, instead of buying a heater core I flushed my exsisting core out. I get some heat on upper vents more heat on bottom vents. I flushed the heater core out until rust particles and brown water came out. I flushed it through the top and out of the bottom and then reversed the process until the water ran clear.---Your right about the the story the heat went out on its own is suspicious, but hey it was a work van and giving to me for free theres no telling what contractors did to the van lol.
Your right, but I checked the core, motors and calibration whats next?
Quote:
Anyone have any clue on what I can check or do to repair this further? It doesnt seem to fix anything and it keeps going for well over 3 minutes, in fact it will keep going until I turn it off or turn the motor off.
Quote:
The blend doors are electronically operated/adjusted by the temperature control module. Problems to diagnose are 1)recalibration, 2)blend door actuators, and 3) control module.
I wonder if you are supposed to be able to move the blend doors manually if the actuators/motor (linkage) is working? Earlier, you implied that you applied some force to the doors.
Re-read my original post. Do you have the correct wire plug hooked up to the 3 correct motors? How did the calibration procedure go? Did you figure out how to properly pull the control module codes?
Edit:
Quote:
(4) If the LEDs or graphics continue to flash beyond the two minutes, it indicates that the heater control module has detected a problem and set a diagnostic trouble code. The LEDs or graphics will continue flashing even after the ignition switch is cycled Off and On, until calibration is successful, or until the vehicle has been driven about 8 miles.
Also, I'm not sure, but I think the calibration is supposed to be done with the ignition switch at the "on" position, but, IS THE ENGINE SUPPOSED TO BE RUNNING?
Anyone have any clue on what I can check or do to repair this further? It doesnt seem to fix anything and it keeps going for well over 3 minutes, in fact it will keep going until I turn it off or turn the motor off.
Quote:
The blend doors are electronically operated/adjusted by the temperature control module. Problems to diagnose are 1)recalibration, 2)blend door actuators, and 3) control module.
I wonder if you are supposed to be able to move the blend doors manually if the actuators/motor (linkage) is working? Earlier, you implied that you applied some force to the doors.
Re-read my original post. Do you have the correct wire plug hooked up to the 3 correct motors? How did the calibration procedure go? Did you figure out how to properly pull the control module codes?
Edit:
Quote:
(4) If the LEDs or graphics continue to flash beyond the two minutes, it indicates that the heater control module has detected a problem and set a diagnostic trouble code. The LEDs or graphics will continue flashing even after the ignition switch is cycled Off and On, until calibration is successful, or until the vehicle has been driven about 8 miles.
Also, I'm not sure, but I think the calibration is supposed to be done with the ignition switch at the "on" position, but, IS THE ENGINE SUPPOSED TO BE RUNNING?
Last edited:
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