oil recommendation for '06 Mitsu Evo IX

[ninjaboy76]

Hi! I'm new to the boards and have been spending sometime on here researching but I'm out of time and need to get oil for my car asap. So here are the details:

2006 Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution

Factory recommendation is M1 10w-30.

My car is anything but factory. I have a fully built 2.3 stroker motor (factory is 2.0), and I'm running a GT35R turbo (much larger than factory). I will also be running E85 for fuel and will probably be making more than 500awhp.

I would like something that will stand up to E85 and is slightly thicker than 10w-30. I have been thinking about trying 15w-50 M1 or amsoil 15w-50 RD50 racing oil, but I'm open to others as well.

I do not daily drive this vehicle. It is more of a toy. I plan on changing the oil frequently since I'm running E85, so something that can be purchase at a local autoparts store would be nice.

Thanks for the help.

 

[Falcon_LS]

I would go with something like Mobil 1 0W-40 (this is actually what's spec'd for it here) or Liqui-Moly Synthoil Energy 0W-40 if you're looking for something thicker. If you wish to stick with a 30 weight, RL High Performance 5W-30, Silkolene PRO S 5W-30 Ester Synthetic, Motul 8100 Eco-nergy 5W-30 or Amsoil Synthetic 5W-30 would do just fine IMO.

 

[dparm]

Do you drive it 12 months a year?

The turbo is going to be brutal to that oil.

 

[Lethal1ty17]

a 40wt is probably ideal for it, no use in jumping to the 50wt just yet.

any fully synthetic 40wt should work quite nicely.

shell rotella t6 is a heavy duty engine oil (hdeo) and would probably work quite well there, you can pick some up at walmart, and of course the usual mobil 1, pennzoil platinum/ultra, castrol edge/syntec will all work fine too, no use in going exotic for the oil if you will change it out all the time.

i'd do 4000 miles per oil change, have an oil analysis done and see how your engine is wearing in and how capable your oil is, they can usually tell you about how long you can go on an oil, after all, there is no point in frequently changing something that doesnt need to be.

nice car.

 

[scurvy]

Originally Posted By: Lethal1ty17
shell rotella t6 is a heavy duty engine oil (hdeo) and would probably work quite well there

Agreed, T6 (formerly SRT) has proven itself to deal well with the demands of turbocharged gassers & diesels and is an exceptional deal on an excellent oil. It's hard to beat at $20ish per gallon.

 

[d00df00d]

Originally Posted By: ninjaboy76
Hi! I'm new to the boards and have been spending sometime on here researching but I'm out of time and need to get oil for my car asap. So here are the details:

2006 Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution

Factory recommendation is M1 10w-30.

My car is anything but factory. I have a fully built 2.3 stroker motor (factory is 2.0), and I'm running a GT35R turbo (much larger than factory). I will also be running E85 for fuel and will probably be making more than 500awhp.

I would like something that will stand up to E85 and is slightly thicker than 10w-30. I have been thinking about trying 15w-50 M1 or amsoil 15w-50 RD50 racing oil, but I'm open to others as well.

I do not daily drive this vehicle. It is more of a toy. I plan on changing the oil frequently since I'm running E85, so something that can be purchase at a local autoparts store would be nice.

Thanks for the help.

to BITOG!

Motul 300V was the first thing that came to my mind reading this. It's a street-friendly oil that a lot of high-level race teams use straight out of the can. Anything from the 5w-30 to the 10w-40 should work for you. Don't think you can get it off-the-shelf in the US, though.

If it has to be off-the-shelf, Castrol Syntec 0w-30 European Formula and Mobil 1 0w-40 deserve your attention. They're street oils, but both are very tough and have great track records.

Not sure if I agree on the recommendation of Rotella T6. I suspect you will want to try to stay away from oils designed to be friendly to sensitive emissions systems.

 

[Lethal1ty17]

I think if he is running a 500hp Evo with a modded engine, he likely did away with some or all of the emissions systems already (at least i would have...)

Shell Rotella T6 would be a good choice though, just saw some at walmart in 5w40 for $19.50/5qts.

Hard to beat that.

 

[d00df00d]

Originally Posted By: Lethal1ty17
I think if he is running a 500hp Evo with a modded engine, he likely did away with some or all of the emissions systems already (at least i would have...)

Exactly.

Which is why he doesn't need an oil that is designed to be friendly to sensitive emissions systems.

Which is why I doubt that Rotella T6, being a relatively low-ash oil, is a good choice.

 

[Lethal1ty17]

gotchya, i read that wrong. cant see it hurting though since it is an HDEO.

no use in going exotic though. todays formulations are more than capable of handing the challenge.

 

[ninjaboy76]

Originally Posted By: dparm
Do you drive it 12 months a year?

The turbo is going to be brutal to that oil.


Yes it will see some driving on winter days when the weather is nice. I was thinking about going with a different oil during the winter months.

No there is no emissions equipment on this vehicle. I only wanted to change the oil more frequently since E85 seems to water down oil from what I've read. Maybe some of you have some more insight on that matter though.

Thanks for the replies... keep em coming!

 

[d00df00d]

Originally Posted By: ninjaboy76
Yes it will see some driving on winter days when the weather is nice. I was thinking about going with a different oil during the winter months.

It'd be better to find an oil that is suitable for year-round use and stick with it.


Originally Posted By: ninjaboy76
No there is no emissions equipment on this vehicle. I only wanted to change the oil more frequently since E85 seems to water down oil from what I've read. Maybe some of you have some more insight on that matter though.

Ethanol attracts water. Water increases acid formation. Acids hurt.

The relevance to your engine oil AFAIK is not so much the water itself, but that the oil needs to be formulated properly to prevent those acids from doing damage. That's why I was saying you might want to stay away from highly emissions-friendly oils; they can be great and some can take a ton of abuse, but AFAIK they tend to have lower acid-fighting ability, all else equal.

 

[Lethal1ty17]

if price or immediate availability isnt an issue, just get some Amsoil and be done with it. i think we'd all agree that Amsoil is better than just about anything.

if it were myself though, i'd get one of the more available synthetics because i feel they will work just as well. mobil 1, castrol edge or syntec, pennzoil platinum or ultra.

 

[d00df00d]

Originally Posted By: Lethal1ty17
if price or immediate availability isnt an issue, just get some Amsoil and be done with it. i think we'd all agree that Amsoil is better than just about anything.

I wouldn't.

(Not trying to pick on you, by the way. Just responding to the points.)

 

[scurvy]

Originally Posted By: d00df00d
Originally Posted By: Lethal1ty17
if price or immediate availability isnt an issue, just get some Amsoil and be done with it. i think we'd all agree that Amsoil is better than just about anything.

I wouldn't.

Neither would I. Amsoil is excellent stuff, but 'better' is a very subjective term.

Originally Posted By: d00df00d
Which is why I doubt that Rotella T6, being a relatively low-ash oil, is a good choice.
How is ash content (I assume SAPS) an indicator of oil suitability in this engine?

IMO this application screams for a Xw40 HDEO synthetic as those oils tend to be very robust to handle the soot & heat from a turbodiesel engine and have plenty of anti-wear additives that spark ignition only rated oils have less.

Besides my previous recommendation of T6, I'll also throw out recommendations (in no particular order) Mobil 1 TDT, Mobil 1 0w40, Amsoil DEO, Schaeffer 9000, Red Line 5w40 or PC Duron 0w40.

 

[Lethal1ty17]

kinda came out wrong. "better" was a poor word choice.

i think a majority of us would agree that Amsoil has the reputation for being quite a robust oil when it comes to just about everything, and would work quite well in this application.

seems like a majority of us are saying to run the 40wt though. 50wt seems a bit much unless you have proof that a 40wt isnt gunna cut the mustard.

 

[d00df00d]

Originally Posted By: scurvy
How is ash content (I assume SAPS) an indicator of oil suitability in this engine?

See what I said three posts above yours. Again, just my understanding. It's largely based on what I've heard about specs like MB 229.51 and BMW LL-04.

But in general, all else equal, I would think you'd want an oil that's optimized for as few variables as possible. Since we're talking about a car without an emissions system, that's one variable that doesn't have to be considered at all; since emissions system compatibility usually comes at the expense of anti-wear additive content or acid fighting ability, it doesn't make sense to me to pick an oil that's designed to be emissions-friendly -- especially when you're dealing with an engine that is chucking out >250 hp/L with a hot turbo.

Again, this is all else equal, of course. I wouldn't dare recommend Joe Average 5w-30 Conventional over Rotella T6 in this case. I just think there has to be a better choice than T6.

 

[scurvy]

Originally Posted By: d00df00d
Again, just my understanding. It's largely based on what I've heard about specs like MB 229.51 and BMW LL-04.

MB 229.51 is a mid-SAPS oil to be more DPF friendly but otherwise a robust HDEO.
BMW LL04 wouldn't be a good choice due to the low starting TBN.

Originally Posted By: d00df00d
it doesn't make sense to me to pick an oil that's designed to be emissions-friendly

None of the oils listed are particularly emissions friendly. CJ-4 is more DPF friendly than CI-4 but it's still a long way off from most gasser oils to the point that some folks fear for their catalytic converters when using a HEDO.

For this engine you need plenty of antiwear additives (moly, ZDDP), excellent TBN retention and the highest HTHS number you can find to deal with the turbo. These still say HDEO Xw40 synthetic to me.

Guess we'll agree to disagree.

 

[d00df00d]

Originally Posted By: scurvy
MB 229.51 is a mid-SAPS oil to be more DPF friendly but otherwise a robust HDEO.
BMW LL04 wouldn't be a good choice due to the low starting TBN.

Both were recommended not to be used in US-market cars where fuel contains ethanol, no? That's what I was going on.


Originally Posted By: scurvy
None of the oils listed are particularly emissions friendly. CJ-4 is more DPF friendly than CI-4 but it's still a long way off from most gasser oils to the point that some folks fear for their catalytic converters when using a HEDO.

It has a lower level of ash than Mobil 1 0w-40 (1.0% vs. 1.2%), and that's a pretty emissions-friendly oil for what it is...

Am I missing something there?


Originally Posted By: scurvy
For this engine you need plenty of antiwear additives (moly, ZDDP), excellent TBN retention and the highest HTHS number you can find to deal with the turbo. These still say HDEO Xw40 synthetic to me.

Guess we'll agree to disagree.

I'm open to being shown wrong. I want to pick your brain more than to disagree with you.

 

[bagtagley]

Red Line would be my choice. It's not typically available locally, but you can buy by the case and stock up.

 

[Lethal1ty17]

the 2 exotics i would choose would be the redline and motul