Some car makers say NO antiseize on spark plugs?

Status
Not open for further replies.
a great analogy is the ratings posted under your couch cushions for cleaning.

Many times they will say dry clean only, but the fabric will easily tolerate a wet cleaning if proper technique is used.

This is because if they allowed water some numb nut would take it outside and put a garden hose on it and complain!

It's the same with anti-seize.
 
Originally Posted By: sprintman
Definitely not to be used on BMW and Porsche. Plugs came out of my 9 yr old BMW without a problem and the NGK's went in as they came out of the box, torque wrench of course.


Nothing special about a BMW or overgrown Beetle engine that would prohibit the use of never seize.
Over the last 30 yrs we used it on almost every BMW engine made since the mid 30's including those made by EMW.
This was at one of the largest BMW Niederlassung in Germany.
I used it on my own 911's 912 and 930 without issue.
 
Never in my life have I *ever* used anti-seize on any spark plug in any engine. Its a good way to strip threads because when the gasket bottoms out and compresses, the torque doesn't go up as high as it should and you can inadvertently pull the threads right out of the head, particularly an aluminum head. Put them in dry unless the engine manufacturer EXPLICITLY says to use an anti-seize. And don't over-torque them.
 
Used properly, there will never be an issue on any engine. If not uses, you may not have any issues either but to eliminate the risk of galling the next time they come out, I use it every time. And I replace a lot of spark plugs.
 
You just have to reduce the torque to compensate for the lubricated threads.If you dont use it on some engines you could end up pulling the head to get the broken plug out.Ford Kent engines and 4v 5.4 come to mind.Never seize is good practice on plugs with exreme change intervals.
 
Originally Posted By: 440Magnum
Its a good way to strip threads because when the gasket bottoms out and compresses


What compresses on a taper seat plug? (Every engine I've ever changed plugs on--Duratec, 302, 4.6L, 2.0L, 1.9L, all Ford--has used taper seat plugs and I've used anti-seize on every one).
 
For all of those who say you can end up stripping the threads due to the decreased friction and skewed torque values, I say you have two options....

1) Lower the torque value... Seems logical.

2) On tapered seat plugs, finger tight plus a 1/16th of a turn was the go by I've seen on plug boxes or finger tight plus a 1/2 turn for gasket type plugs. Using this method, there is no influence from decreased friction because you are using distance traveled (based on threads per inch) and not torque applied to set the seal pre load.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top