Air Filter Oil

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I called a bike stealership here in town to get a quote for a valve check and adjustment on my bike. He said it would take 3 to 4 hours @ $55 an hour - $150 to $200. I find it hard to believe it would take an experienced Kawasaki tech that long to do that. I don't know but I don't think I'd let them work on the bike with those prices. Then I told him how my bike tends to hesitate at times, and he said it's probably jetting, and that he might be able to fix that for about $200.
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Another bike shop that fixes bikes and deals with bike parts and accessories said they'd check the valves for $50 to $60, and if they need adjusting, it would be $125 to $150 total.
 
Originally Posted By: Lurch
I called a bike stealership here in town to get a quote for a valve check and adjustment on my bike. He said it would take 3 to 4 hours @ $55 an hour - $150 to $200. I find it hard to believe it would take an experienced Kawasaki tech that long to do that. I don't know but I don't think I'd let them work on the bike with those prices. Then I told him how my bike tends to hesitate at times, and he said it's probably jetting, and that he might be able to fix that for about $200.
shocked2.gif


Another bike shop that fixes bikes and deals with bike parts and accessories said they'd check the valves for $50 to $60, and if they need adjusting, it would be $125 to $150 total.



Fifty five bucks an hour is pretty reasonable. Around here the rate is closer to $80.00.

Dual overhead cam engines are labour intensive to check the valve lash. Depending on the model, fairing sections and fuel tank may have to come off just to get to the engine. Depending on the complexity of fuel intake system and exhaust, additional parts may need to be removed to get the valve cover(s) off.

Be very careful who you select to do the work. If you know other bikers, talk to them about who does their work and whom they would refer. It's hard to find a straight up dealership with experienced mechanics. Do your homework wisely before you bring your bike to any shop.
 
Originally Posted By: Silk
You are very defensive,why do you have to keep defending your position? As I explained,we are not diametrically opposed - I do often use engine oil,and see no problem really.However,from a customer point of view,if they opened their airbox and found I had used just engine oil,they would be back to the shop screaming rip off.The manufacturer recommends a filter oil,we stock filter oil,the customer expects us to use dealer products for a dealer service.Some don't care - in that case nor do I,it gets engine oil in the filter...and no extra effort from me.


You can call it defensive. I prefer to think of it as informative.

It's not unusual for my posts to hit a nerve with dealers, shops and payroll mechanics. Any advice that will keep potential customers out of the shop is money out of their pockets.

By the way, if you're performing mechanical functions that are a requirement of the manufacturers warranty schedule, no problem. However to claim that time honoured alternative materials and methods are unacceptable for non-warranty work and maintenance is misleading.

I'm certain that participants here can read between the lines and chose what's best for themselves and their machines.
 
I'm quite sure the non dealer would be the better of the two to have work on my bike, but before I do that I'll have to ascertain that my bike in fact really needs to have the valves adjusted.

Maybe in the Spring, when I'm in hopefully better financial shape. Thanks again.
 
Originally Posted By: Lurch
I'm quite sure the non dealer would be the better of the two to have work on my bike, but before I do that I'll have to ascertain that my bike in fact really needs to have the valves adjusted.

Maybe in the Spring, when I'm in hopefully better financial shape. Thanks again.


"move along, nothing to see here -- move along...."
 
Originally Posted By: boraticus

It's not unusual for my posts to hit a nerve with dealers, shops and payroll mechanics. Any advice that will keep potential customers out of the shop is money out of their pockets.

I'm certain that participants here can read between the lines and chose what's best for themselves and their machines.


Your opinionated posts hit the nerve of technical people because you constantly ignoring scientific evidences and focus only on cost. You have also been warned by the mod for your ignorance. You failed to see why people spend extra money on products that put them in the winner circle or to make their vehicle more efficient. You have no scientific proof other than your experience which is anecdotal at best. You either can't read or chose to ignore facts from filter oil manufacturer studies that show foam filter oil superiority over non filter oil. Another word, you are just a shade tree mechanics expressing your own opinion on a public forum. The participants on this forum can see that very clearly.
 
Originally Posted By: Lurch
I called a bike stealership here in town to get a quote for a valve check and adjustment on my bike. He said it would take 3 to 4 hours @ $55 an hour - $150 to $200. I find it hard to believe it would take an experienced Kawasaki tech that long to do that.



Depends on the bike, if the mech has to take bunch of tupperware off to get to the engine, then it the time may be reasonable.
 
Originally Posted By: XS650
Originally Posted By: Lurch
I called a bike stealership here in town to get a quote for a valve check and adjustment on my bike. He said it would take 3 to 4 hours @ $55 an hour - $150 to $200. I find it hard to believe it would take an experienced Kawasaki tech that long to do that.



Depends on the bike, if the mech has to take bunch of tupperware off to get to the engine, then it the time may be reasonable.


As I had said earlier, much of the work is just getting to the engine. A guy could save himself some shop time if it were possible to remove some of the plastic before bringing it to the shop. Problem is that the vehicle will likely not be drivable be it due to mechanical deficiencies or legal.
 
Hi,

I took the air filter out to clean it, but IMHO it wasn't very dirty and didn't need to be cleaned in solvent so I washed it in a pail with hot soapy dish detergent. It's now air drying. It's one of those that cannot be squeezed out too well - has a plastic frame holding it in shape.

After it's dry I'm going to apply either 85-140w gear oil or some other motor oil I have in the garage.

This air filter was very dry. I don't think anyone had ever applied oil to it. Maybe he planned to replace it with a new one after 15,000 miles or so. It looks like it's got a few more years left to it if I clean it and oil it once a year.
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Okay the childish behavior has gotten some vacation time issued.

I've removed those replies that were so if your post is missing consider this a warning.

Any comments PM me.

Bill
 
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