PU 5W-30, 3100miles, 2010 Genesis 3.8 Track

[Insane]

Hey guys,

I just got my 3rd UOA in on the new ride and it seems to be trending down in the wear metals nicely. I think I'm going to stick with the PU 5W-30 over the PP 5W-20, and settle in to 4k - 5k OCI's.

Couple quick questions though. I'm still seeing silver, and I've never seen that in UOA's before this car. Where is that coming from? Also, I see Boron jumped up quite a bit from the factory fill and PP 5W-20...is that just an additive difference in the PU?

 

[stubbakatt]

Nice add pack in the Ultra. Are you using the Hyundai OEM oil filter?

 

[d00df00d]

I wouldn't use a downward trend in wear metals within the first few thousand miles to recommend one oil over another. Wear metals always decline in that time.

 

[Insane]

Yes, Hyundai OEM filter...interestingly, it's made in Austria. Also, it's a cartridge type...LOVE those.

As for the trending down in wear metals, I'm not saying that is a result of the oil, or saying one is better than the other. I was speaking more to the engine health. I keep cars 7-10 years.

 

[panthermike]

Yes, Boron is part of the add pack in Ultra. It's trending down, which is nice. What's your next planned OCI?

 

[toyotaguy]

Just wondering why u prefer the carteriage oil filter. This is my first in my corolla and just seems like more work then turning a spin on and replacing which is what I used to do between change. I wish my corolla had a spin on

 

[d00df00d]

It definitely is more work than a spin-on that is not stuck, but a lot less work than a spin on that is stuck, and practically impossible to get stuck in the first place.

It can also be a lot cleaner depending on where it is placed.

 

[Insane]

panthermike - I'm probably going to settle in to either a 4k or 5k OCI. I like to do them earlier during the break in period. Now that the wear metals are trending down, I'll increase it to a normal OCI of 4-5k. I suspect I'll probably run 5k during most of the year, then possibly drop back to 4k during the coldest winter months, between the cold starts and all the road salt.

toyotaguy -

I just prefer the cartridge ones because I can see the filter media itself. I'm sure you might have heard how some people cut the spin on filters open so they can inspect the filter media after their change.

I like seeing it for two reasons. First, if there are any larger pieces of metal or anything else showing up visually, I know something is up before I send my oil off, have it analyzed, and get the results back. Also, I can evaluate the media itself as far as how "beefy" it is. If it has lots of pleats, seems to be solidly built, and has lots of surface area, I know it's a good filter. If you have two spin ons, one a plain jane orange Fram from wally world ([censored]) versus a high end M1 synthetic filter that is 5 times as much, how do you know which has the better filter media other than what other people tell you? You have no way of seeing it for yourself. I'm sure if you cut one of each open you'd see the M1 used a much better filter media.

I realize this is probably a non issue for most people, but I'm not most people and it makes me happy. It's also no more or less work to me to change a cartridge filter over a spin on.

 

[Eddie]

I also like my Mazda cartridge filter. I get to see the before & after element. I also need not be concerned about type of overpressure and back check valves as they are built into the engine.

 

[Insane]

d00df00d -

I mostly agree, but I don't think it's really that much more work. About the only difference is changing the O ring (s). As for placement, you are right. One downside to the cartridge filter is they often don't use a anti drainback valve like a spin on.

This can be a problem if the filter cartridge it up high. On the 3.8l Genesis sedans, they put the cartridge filter up at the top of the motor and it does not have a anti drainback valve. So, as a result, within minutes of shutting the engine down, all the oil in the cartridge housing itself, roughly 3/4 quart, drains right back down into the pan and makes you dipstick show you over filled. On the coupe, they seem to have remedied this by mounting it on the bottom of the motor, near the pan, so the drain back doesn't happen nearly as fast and you can accurately use you dipstick to check the level.

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g119/Insane3D/Genesis Coupe/IMG_0014.jpg

You can see the housing to the left of the oil pan...

Oil filter before and after...

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g119/Insane3D/Genesis Coupe/IMG_0019.jpg

 

[toyotaguy]

Fair enough. I just had a bad experience when the O ring wasn't seated properly

 

[INDYMAC]

Does this engine have silver alloy bearings?

 

[Insane]

I'm not sure on the bearings...

Hyundai has all the service manuals online and such, but nothing specific on the bearing material...

 

[steve20]

Does PU normally have that level of ZN and Phos?--seems kind of high for a standard SM fill



Steve

 

[Insane]

I'm not sure on that, but it looks like the ZN and Phos are roughly the same level from the factory fill, to the PP 5W-20, and PU 5W-30...

 

[SubLGT]

Lead free bearings can have silver in them.

".......Daido Metal has developed a completely lead-free bearing consist-ing of a copper-tin-bismuth-molybdenum carbide bearing alloy on a steel back with bismuth/silver dual layers as an overlay. The bearing is not just lead-free but also suitable for high specific load conditions. According to industry sources, the newly developed bismuth/silver dual overlay exhibits anti-seizure properties equivalent to a conventional lead alloy overlay, which is itself especially resistant to seizure.
.....................Daido Metal has the top market share in Japan for plain bearings for engines. ........"

This from an April 2009 SAE abstract by Daido Metal:

".......Recently, a lead-free Al-Sn-Si alloy bearing with metallic overlay has started to be used for a portion of automotive engines. This bearing has good anti-seizure and excellent running-in properties, and is an environmentally friendly alternative to the current copper-lead alloy with lead based overlay.............It is clear that the current lead-free aluminum alloy bearing is not satisfactory with respect to fatigue strength in some cases, and requires higher strength under the higher temperature conditions. Based upon this background, a new lead-free aluminum alloy bearing with metallic overlay has been developed, which is an Al-Zn-Si alloy bearing with a plated bismuth overlay via a silver interlayer for securing a good running-in property........."

 

[Insane]

Thanks for the info! Should I be concerned if I still keep seeing some silver? Unless it goes up drastically I'm not going to worry about it.