who will turn rotors these days?

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I almost never got rotors turned for years, mostly due to the fact that few parts stores still turned them and the cost of rotors have came down so much. A new oreilly's was built a few years ago and they turn cars for 8 and trucks for 10. I've turned probably 20 rotors in the past year and surpringsly all of them had pleanty of metal left on them. No problems with them and even if they are 10 cheaper than new ones that's 20 bucks in my pocket.
 
AND don't forget that a poorly trained person or a poorly maintained lathe and you can easily introduce a whole new problem to your braking system.
 
Originally Posted By: PandaBear
bradepb said:
Where did you get rotors for $20 ea? The cheapest I found was like $30.


I've seen them for as little as $13 for one of my cars. Not that I'd pay that much (little); I'd be highly suspect of them. Probably will warp in a few thousand miles.
 
There's a machine shop near me. $10 per rotor, they remove the bare minimum material, and it takes a half hour.

I never buy new rotors until they're below thickness spec (which effectively means "I never buy new rotors unless they get gouged by a worn-out pad") Waste of money, plus rotors that have been through lots of heat cycles won't warp as easily as fresh "un-seasoned" metal will.
 
Im replacing my rotors every year. I replace them in the summer and by the next summer they get uneven brake pad material on the surface. I bed them in properly and get the rotors nice and hot the first time I take the car out after I replace the rotors/pads.

Does anybody know any causes? Can bad brake caliper assemblies cause this sort of thing?

Very frustrating. I have to replace my rotors this month as my hand shakes violently on the wheel when I apply the brakes at high speed.
 
Originally Posted By: GMFan
Im replacing my rotors every year. I replace them in the summer and by the next summer they get uneven brake pad material on the surface. I bed them in properly and get the rotors nice and hot the first time I take the car out after I replace the rotors/pads.

Does anybody know any causes? Can bad brake caliper assemblies cause this sort of thing?

Very frustrating. I have to replace my rotors this month as my hand shakes violently on the wheel when I apply the brakes at high speed.


That's odd. I have 145k on the original rotors on my '96 SL2 and only recently did they start develop a pedal pulsation. If you are having issues with depositing uneven pad material, it may be because you are overheating the pads? Have you considered installing a set of pads such as Hawk HPS, which are more high-temperature friendly? Since the part number for S-Series cars is being discontinued, I purchase a set of Hawk HPS pads for my SL2 for $20 shipped. Also, make sure you are cleaning the hub flange during rotor installation as well using a torque wrench to install lug nuts.
 
I think that rotors are made better than they used to be. No need to get them turned much anymore unless they just really look that bad and if they did just buy new ones. It helps to replace your pads before they completely wear out down to the metal. If you do that then allot of times the rotors are fine.
 
if you are getting deposits on the rotors , then change brake pad companies!! Always use a torque wrench on them before your drive and heat them up, setting a warp. I take my torque wrench with me an check my bolts when i get new tires put on. I check them right in the lot before i drive anywhere! i never have any rotor issues!!!
 
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Originally Posted By: GMFan
Im replacing my rotors every year. I replace them in the summer and by the next summer they get uneven brake pad material on the surface. I bed them in properly and get the rotors nice and hot the first time I take the car out after I replace the rotors/pads.

Does anybody know any causes? Can bad brake caliper assemblies cause this sort of thing?

Very frustrating. I have to replace my rotors this month as my hand shakes violently on the wheel when I apply the brakes at high speed.



There's nothing much more frustrating than that. What kind of pads are you using? They're harder on the rotors (wear them faster) but my experience is that ceramic pads are a lot less likely to futz with the surface finish of the rotors. The other thing that's worked well for me, believe it or not, is the very low-end organic pads. The downside to them is that the pads wear out really fast. As far as calipers causing it- if they're sticking and keeping a pad pressed hard against a rotor when the car is parked, yes that can transfer pad material to a patch on the rotor and affect its surface characteristics.
 
I have 3 brake jobs on family cars lined up this month: 10 rotors and 2 drums. All will be cut at 15/each at NAPA. 10 + 2 = 12 rotors/drums X MINIMUM of 40 bucks/each = 480 bucks -- no thank you, I'll pay 180, cause it's the first cut on all of them.

Many instances where drivers believe the rotors are warped, are actually cases where it is pad material being deposited on the rotor---happens a lot with Hondas
 
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I've tried Raybestos semi-ceramics and Raybestos rotors. Last job I used Advance Auto Parts Wearever Silver grade organic pads and Wearever rotors.

I think AAP has a replacement plan on their rotors so I am going to try and get another set.

I don't brake excessively hard. I know people who use their brakes a lot more aggressive than I do and they never have issues.

By the way, the uneven-pad transfer only happens on the inner pad/rotor surface. Not the outer surface of the rotor.
 
Originally Posted By: GMFan
By the way, the uneven-pad transfer only happens on the inner pad/rotor surface. Not the outer surface of the rotor.

Your calipers are worn and the piston isn't retracing completely. Install a set of remanufactured calipers with brackets at your next brake job.
 
Originally Posted By: GMFan

By the way, the uneven-pad transfer only happens on the inner pad/rotor surface. Not the outer surface of the rotor.


perhaps an explanation is in order? Are you referring to sliding calipers only?
 
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