Im curious if amsoil offroad 5% or the new truck and equipment can be used on disc brake applications. bascially my 1982 Mercedes 300D it calls for a moly grease... they both have high enough temp rating ideas? i also got some valvoline durablend with moly that is NGLC approved for disc brakes and some M1 synthetic just incase.. thoughts?
AMSOIL Offroad 5% and truck and equipment disc bra
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JHZR2
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A w123 will not be very needy in terms of the selection. Do you have them all on hand? Id use a mainstream, not sure if the 5% is too high loading, or the truck and equipment too heavy. Need to research those a bit. If it were mine, Id run a synthetic which explicitly mentions a rating for disc brakes. In fact, Id probably run MB grease.
The MB wheel bearing grease (p/n 001-989-23-51-10) is $7 list price, and is exactly what MB engineers specified for the car. It happens to be a rather unusual neon-green grease. You are supposed to weigh the amounts of grease per the FSM to ensure that it's not over- or under-packed, including inside the dust cap.
Just DO be sure to weigh it and split it between the bearing and the dust cap. Put too much and it will run out of your wheels. Also more important than which grease is to set the hub with a dial gauge. It can't just be done the American way and get optimal results.
A few how-to:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=214123&highlight=grease+disc+brake
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=236897&highlight=grease+disc+brake
The MB wheel bearing grease (p/n 001-989-23-51-10) is $7 list price, and is exactly what MB engineers specified for the car. It happens to be a rather unusual neon-green grease. You are supposed to weigh the amounts of grease per the FSM to ensure that it's not over- or under-packed, including inside the dust cap.
Just DO be sure to weigh it and split it between the bearing and the dust cap. Put too much and it will run out of your wheels. Also more important than which grease is to set the hub with a dial gauge. It can't just be done the American way and get optimal results.
A few how-to:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=214123&highlight=grease+disc+brake
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=236897&highlight=grease+disc+brake
JHZR2
Staff member
BTW, please post pics of your car.
Also, I have read that in some instances, it is recommended that moly grease NOT be used for roller bearings. Ill let Kestas or another expert comment there though.
Also, I have read that in some instances, it is recommended that moly grease NOT be used for roller bearings. Ill let Kestas or another expert comment there though.
True my dealer tho are total jerks i went thru this when i needed a key.. i would just rather do about anything than go there. That is cool looking grease tho.. i highly doubt it's anything special.. i mean the w123 isnt a speed demon by no means any old grease will work. I'm sure this is a broad spectrum application grease prolly for all mb? would be cool find some and see.. love the color
JHZR2
Staff member
Well that's your call. Folks like Phil over at peachparts gives great service, or buying a good tube of Schaeffer's or amsoil grease from the sponsors here would also give you excellent service.
I would wait for someones' 2c on using moly grease for wheel roller bearings, as I have heard in the past that one should not use moly grease if they care about the bearing's longevity. Need to hear from the experts on that one though...
I would wait for someones' 2c on using moly grease for wheel roller bearings, as I have heard in the past that one should not use moly grease if they care about the bearing's longevity. Need to hear from the experts on that one though...
JHZR2
Staff member
This is from another MB source:
Quote:
Part # 001 989 23 51 10 is teh correct wheel bearing grease to use on all MBs.
Here's a few things to consider:
First, get the MB Chassis manual for your car so you can do the job right.
In my experience, the grease should be changed at the 90,000 mile service - I found my OEM grease was getting a little stiff by this mileage.
Use MB wheel bearing grease part no 001 989 23 51 10 or a good grade of lithium high temperature bearing grease - Kendall Blue comes to mind. Of course, buy new inner hub seals.
Pull a bearing cap and look at the grease - if it is stiff and wax-like, it is long past time for bearing re-pack. Anyway, I do bearing grease at 90,000 miles interval (third 30,000 mile service) since MB now uses that new green high temp grease in all cars since 1986.
If your bearings are OK, but if the hubs are coming off anyway for rotor change, change bearing grease and install new seals. Thoroughly clean the hub and bearings of ALL old grease. DO NOT SPIN BEARINGS at high speed with air gun to dry them - be gentle with the air. Some mechanics like to have fun by making that high pitched whine using compressed air to spin and dry out cleaned bearings - it is really hard on the bearings to do that.
If you are changing the bearing races, here's the easy way:
After cleaning the hubs of all grease, put them in the oven for one hour at 250-300 degrees F. Place the bearing races in your freezer the night before doing your bearing work.
When the hubs come from the oven, use a long drift to drive out the old races from the hubs. The new frozen races will practically drop into the warmed hubs with little force. Make sure the races are seated all the way around the groove they fit into.
Next, pack bearings by hand with MB grease - save all excess - weigh out correct # of grams and pack it into hub IAW the MB chassis manual. There's a reason for the specified grams of grease for the bearings and inside the hub. Too much leads to overheating and too little starves the bearings of grease. The grams specified for inside the hub and the bearings just fills the hub cavity such that centrifugal force during rotation forces the grease outward in both directions to continually pressurize the bearings and keep them lubricated. It has been shown that the grease actually "circulates" inside the hub and through the bearings to keep them lubricated - that's why properly-lubricated MB front wheel bearings can last so long, and that is the reason for that 45 grams of grease.
Use the rest of the grease to fill the hub cap. In this manner the inside seal stops the grease from leaving the bearing due to centrifugal force, and the cap, being full of grease, keeps the grease inside the hub/bearing area.
The 150 gram tube of MB grease will do both front wheels - about 60 grams per hub plus 30 grams for bearings - simply follow the MB factory chassis manual procedure.
Here's data from TD Manual:
For a 150 gram tube of MB wheel bearing grease, here's how it breaks down:
(From TDM Section 33)
(All weights are approximate)
107, 124, 201.03 models: total 65 to 70 grams - 50 in the hub with bearing; 15 to 20 in the hub cap
116, 123, 126: total 60 grams - 45 grams in the hub; 15 grams in the hub cap
201.02/1: total 50 grams- 35 grams in hub; 15 grams in the hub cap
202: total 60 grams; 45 grams in hub; 15 grams in the hub cap
Be sure to maintain the specified charge. Suitably weigh entire charge prior to starting assembly of front wheel hub. Weigh quantity filled into hub. Fill roller cage of tapered roller bearing well with grease. Also provide roller faces with grease. Fill hub cap approx to beaded rim.
Starting 12/88 all models use 150 gram tube - green grease part no. 001 989 23 51/10
DO NOT MIX GREASE TYPES - unexpected results may occur.
As to setting the free play, certainly the dial gauge method is preferred.
Here's how I did it ON A 107 before I bought a dial gauge: (N/A for 126 and those w/o washer)
Re-assemble the washer and adjust nut and tighten it about 25 to 30 Nm while spinning the wheel. Back off the adjust nut just enough so that you can barely rotate the washer behind it by hand - that should be as close as you can do it by feel. Tighten the lock bolt and check that the washer can still be rotated by hand - it should be a little stiff, but movable.
If you replace the bearings and races, you should repeat the above after a few hundred miles to assure that adjustment is correct. I've always had to re-adjust after bearing race change, so plan on doing it anytime you replace bearings and races. . .
Quote:
Part # 001 989 23 51 10 is teh correct wheel bearing grease to use on all MBs.
Here's a few things to consider:
First, get the MB Chassis manual for your car so you can do the job right.
In my experience, the grease should be changed at the 90,000 mile service - I found my OEM grease was getting a little stiff by this mileage.
Use MB wheel bearing grease part no 001 989 23 51 10 or a good grade of lithium high temperature bearing grease - Kendall Blue comes to mind. Of course, buy new inner hub seals.
Pull a bearing cap and look at the grease - if it is stiff and wax-like, it is long past time for bearing re-pack. Anyway, I do bearing grease at 90,000 miles interval (third 30,000 mile service) since MB now uses that new green high temp grease in all cars since 1986.
If your bearings are OK, but if the hubs are coming off anyway for rotor change, change bearing grease and install new seals. Thoroughly clean the hub and bearings of ALL old grease. DO NOT SPIN BEARINGS at high speed with air gun to dry them - be gentle with the air. Some mechanics like to have fun by making that high pitched whine using compressed air to spin and dry out cleaned bearings - it is really hard on the bearings to do that.
If you are changing the bearing races, here's the easy way:
After cleaning the hubs of all grease, put them in the oven for one hour at 250-300 degrees F. Place the bearing races in your freezer the night before doing your bearing work.
When the hubs come from the oven, use a long drift to drive out the old races from the hubs. The new frozen races will practically drop into the warmed hubs with little force. Make sure the races are seated all the way around the groove they fit into.
Next, pack bearings by hand with MB grease - save all excess - weigh out correct # of grams and pack it into hub IAW the MB chassis manual. There's a reason for the specified grams of grease for the bearings and inside the hub. Too much leads to overheating and too little starves the bearings of grease. The grams specified for inside the hub and the bearings just fills the hub cavity such that centrifugal force during rotation forces the grease outward in both directions to continually pressurize the bearings and keep them lubricated. It has been shown that the grease actually "circulates" inside the hub and through the bearings to keep them lubricated - that's why properly-lubricated MB front wheel bearings can last so long, and that is the reason for that 45 grams of grease.
Use the rest of the grease to fill the hub cap. In this manner the inside seal stops the grease from leaving the bearing due to centrifugal force, and the cap, being full of grease, keeps the grease inside the hub/bearing area.
The 150 gram tube of MB grease will do both front wheels - about 60 grams per hub plus 30 grams for bearings - simply follow the MB factory chassis manual procedure.
Here's data from TD Manual:
For a 150 gram tube of MB wheel bearing grease, here's how it breaks down:
(From TDM Section 33)
(All weights are approximate)
107, 124, 201.03 models: total 65 to 70 grams - 50 in the hub with bearing; 15 to 20 in the hub cap
116, 123, 126: total 60 grams - 45 grams in the hub; 15 grams in the hub cap
201.02/1: total 50 grams- 35 grams in hub; 15 grams in the hub cap
202: total 60 grams; 45 grams in hub; 15 grams in the hub cap
Be sure to maintain the specified charge. Suitably weigh entire charge prior to starting assembly of front wheel hub. Weigh quantity filled into hub. Fill roller cage of tapered roller bearing well with grease. Also provide roller faces with grease. Fill hub cap approx to beaded rim.
Starting 12/88 all models use 150 gram tube - green grease part no. 001 989 23 51/10
DO NOT MIX GREASE TYPES - unexpected results may occur.
As to setting the free play, certainly the dial gauge method is preferred.
Here's how I did it ON A 107 before I bought a dial gauge: (N/A for 126 and those w/o washer)
Re-assemble the washer and adjust nut and tighten it about 25 to 30 Nm while spinning the wheel. Back off the adjust nut just enough so that you can barely rotate the washer behind it by hand - that should be as close as you can do it by feel. Tighten the lock bolt and check that the washer can still be rotated by hand - it should be a little stiff, but movable.
If you replace the bearings and races, you should repeat the above after a few hundred miles to assure that adjustment is correct. I've always had to re-adjust after bearing race change, so plan on doing it anytime you replace bearings and races. . .
Yah it seems to be RENOLIT LX-PEP 2 basic synthetic grease nothing special except the color really..
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