Oil for 2006 Honda Civic Si

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I have a new 2006 Honda Civic Si with the K20 engine. I am trying to decide what oil and filter to use when I get to the oil change time. The Si is a performance oriented car with an 8000 rpm redline. It also has the oil monitor and I would like to use that feature if possible. I drive my car hard, mostly city miles. I live in NC so the climate is fairly mild.
I am thinking I should go Supertech Synthetic with a supertech filter and change on time/alittle over the oil monitor system (probably 6K miles or so). I think this is a good mix between interval time/cost/protection etc. Does this sound good or what else would you recomend? Should I use a Honda Filter instead? I will probably do a blackstone on it sometime.
 
How new is it? How many miles? I know I'm a bit anal, but during break-in, I do my first oil change early (around 1000 miles) to rid the sump of any break-in metals. I change it again at 3000 and at that time convert to full synthetic. You're engine in particular would benefit from a full synthetic, it being a high-revving, hard working engine. You'll probably get a lot of suggestions, but this is a process I've had great luck with. Congrats on the Si from a former owner of a Rio Red '86 and a Tahitian Green '91..both excellent cars.
 
If your planning on redlining your Honda, skip the ST oil/filter and especially if you think your going to go over the OLM amount. You'd want more protection than that. I have an 06 Accord and at first I didn't believe in the OLM, but that thing works. First, I'd go with M1 since your already thinking synthetics, and M1 SS 5W-30 for your future spirited driving. I'd would also recommend the PureOne but your driving style may require a little more quicker oil flow, so I'd stick to regular Purolators. By all means, don't go past the OLM, change out around 10% remaining and that should get you to 7K or so miles.
 
I'd use something with high moly, like Havoline dino 5w-30 and maybe a shot of VSOT. That's what I did in my '06 RSX. German Syntec 0w-30 would be the ultimate oil there. I will probally use my stashed M1 0w-30 afetr a few runs of Havoline.
 
I second the M1, that should be fine. If you have it constantly bouncing off of redline, then yeah you'd want to go with a synthetic. If you're not too sure about the oil monitor, then maybe do a shorter OCI just to be sure, and have it analyzed. If everything checks out then change per OLM and have fun with that sweet car...
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PS. Can't comment on the filters because I don't know too much about either filter. I've always been a Ford or GM guy myself, so if you had a Ford then a Motorcraft filter is a no-brainer, but....you don't lol.
 
I've read a lot about Purolator and Wix being excellent brands, but due to my desire to avoid warranty entanglements with Nissan, I use Nissan filters.
 
Auto-Union: Just for fun i looked up the spec sheet on VSOT. At 100*C regular 5w30 has a vis around 10 or 11, at 100*C VSOT is 100!!!! Thats some thick stuff.

I realize this is off topic, but i wonder would adding a thick additive to a 5w30 with VII's raise both the base vis (5) and the hot vis (30) do to the VII's mixing with the VSOT?

I know the moly would be enjoyed by many, but i'm just afraid adding something that thick would be counter-benneficial to a new engine. Perhaps using a high-moly like havoline in a heavier vis like 10w30 would prove more benneficial?

To the OP: If you are going to follow the oil monitor system, and your gonna be lead-footing it around, i'd go with a good "real" synthetic like Mobil1 or Valvoline full-synthetic -or- a good quality dino changed every 3K-4K miles.
 
quote:

Originally posted by Schmoe:
By all means, don't go past the OLM, change out around 10% remaining and that should get you to 7K or so miles.

I would probably run the oil to 10% or 0 probably, the reason being the monitor is set for dino oil, not synthetic
 
No, it's not. The monitor is independent of type of oil but rather on operating parameters such as heat, idle times, rev limits, cruising speed, etc. etc. If in fact it is brand spanking new, you would be foolish to exceed the OLM period. You will surely void engine warranty if you did that and don't think that you can reset it or something to erase going past 0%. They all have "tell tale" boxes on them.
 
quote:

Originally posted by Schmoe:
No, it's not. The monitor is independent of type of oil but rather on operating parameters such as heat, idle times, rev limits, cruising speed, etc. etc. If in fact it is brand spanking new, you would be foolish to exceed the OLM period. You will surely void engine warranty if you did that and don't think that you can reset it or something to erase going past 0%. They all have "tell tale" boxes on them.

I am having a little trouble understanding what you are saying in the first part. Yes, the oil monitor calculates the life on idle, revs etc but synthetic lasts longer than dino so really there is a little more life in the oil. That being said I wouldn't change it when it first comes up to change it at 20%, rather i would wait till it approaches the lower numbers. You do bring a valid point with not going past zero. I will be sure not to surpass the 0% mark.
 
quote:

Originally posted by surfstar:
If the Si's get 5w20 spec'd like regular Civic's I'd say Redline 5w20 and follow the OLM.

Honda is smart when it comes to their high revving motors, they get 5w-30 instead of 5w-20, so that tells you alot about the reasons 5w-20 was developed. The low rpm variant of the k20 gets 5w-20.

I've always found my Hondas consumed oil on Mobil1 for some reason, probably due to their low tension ring design. I'd recommend going with Amsoil 5-30 or even 10w-30, and then you don't have to be worried about 10,000 km oil changes. The OLM monitor on my 06 Civic sedan is recommending oil changes anywhere between 10,000 and 11,000 kms, a bit long for my preference but I'd feel better about it on a good synthetic.

I love Redline oil for harsh use conditions such as road course racing, but I wouldn't run it on a daily driver. I'm still not sure about the higher lead UOA readings we've seen on Honda's using Redline.
 
motorcraft 5w-20 with a 5k oci. supertech filter would do fine. although supertech synthetic oil would work just fine as well.
 
That engine specs 5w-30 as IDMO said. I should have said to use the VSOT at 1oz/quart, as Mola recommended. I actually use a combo of Havoline 5w-20 and Havoline Synth 5w-30 PLUS the VSOT...crazy moly. I have the base engine.
 
The '06 RSX Type-S and the '06 Civic Si have the K20Z1 and K20Z3 engines, respectively. Though both engines may be similar, they actually have different viscosity requirements.

Both Amsoil and Mobil recommended the 5w-20 for the K20Z3 equipped Civic Si and 5w-30 for the K20Z1 equipped RSX Type-S. Tennisjon needs to check his user's manual to verify the recommended viscosity.

5w-30 may be used in the K20Z3 if one desires, though I personally doubt there will be a significant increase in engine life when 5w-30 is substituted for the recommended 5w-20. If Tennisjon is interested in using 5w-30, he should use 5w-20 until his 5-yr/60,000 mile powertrain warranty expires, then switch to 5w-30 to avoid hassles with Honda in the event of a warranty claim. My memory from prior conversations with Tennisjon on AcuraZine tells me that he does not service his own vehicle, and service centers are generally hesistant to install an oil viscosity other than the one recommended by the OEM, purely due to liability concerns.

My personal opinion only: Synthetic oils do not necessairly constitute a longer drain interval. There are other factors that will determine oil life other than the added oxidation resistance, higher TBN, etc in synthetic oil. For example, fuel contamination from short trips due to the engine rarely seeing normal operating temperature may justify the need for a shorter drain interval regardless of oil type, due to contamination.

The PureOne issue should really be put to death. They may be more restrictive than other filters but their flow certainly meets/exceeds OEM requirements, I'm sure. If flow is really important to one, they should look into the Napa Gold or Wix branded filters.

Although I personally do not see the need for a synthetic, it may not be a bad idea to consider one in this case. Pennzoil Platinum 5w-20, Mobil 1 5w-20, or Amsoil XL 5w-20 are all good choices. Napa Gold/Wix or Purolator PureOne Oil Filter. Change the oil when the Maintenance Minder System reaches 5%. Get an oil analysis after the second or third oil change.

If you're still have a shop do the maintenance, Walmart TLE does synthetic oil changes for $40 with the brand of your choice (M1 or Pennzoil Platinum). Just buy your Napa Gold or PureOne filter and bring it to them. Same goes for Jiffy Lube, though they use Pennzoil Platinum only.

PS- Consider switching your transmission lube to either Redline MTL, SF MTL-P, or Amsoil MTF at the first oil change. Jiffy Lube or equivalent usually charges less than $30 for labor if you bring the fluid.
 
Go for the gusto and use "German" Castrol Syntec 0W-30, unless you think Honda will be entirely anal on any warranty issues (I doubt you'll have any major ones). In that case, use Pennzoil Platinum Syn. 5W-30, AMSOIL 5W-30, or even Mobil1 5W-30...

And Hondas love a Wix/Napa Gold filter...
 
Honda specs 5w30 because the oil can get very very hot in this engine. At that point, the 30wt will act alot like the 20wt. I've used RP, RL, and M1EP in my 2006 RSX Type-S. All have worked exceptionally well, but once I did burn an entire quart of RP off during a 1 hour track session. Do what you wish, but it is a small, warm runing, high output engine.
 
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