We use a lot of group 7 and also purolator oil filters (group 7 is made by purolator) Twice i had a filter with bad threads one was a purolator plus and the other was a pure one
Purolator Oil Filters Thread Problems
- Thread starter crazyoildude
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I've never had a bad Purolator oil filter.
Originally Posted By: cos
I've never had a bad Purolator oil filter.
Same here
I've never had a bad Purolator oil filter.
Same here
Originally Posted By: daman
Originally Posted By: cos
I've never had a bad Purolator oil filter.
Same here
Ditto, no problems with any I've used.
Originally Posted By: cos
I've never had a bad Purolator oil filter.
Same here
Ditto, no problems with any I've used.
one was a pureone 14670
and the other a 14476 classic
Honestly we use over 100 pureolator filters (group 7 at the shop made by purolator) and dont usually have problems but those two were bad..
and the other a 14476 classic
Honestly we use over 100 pureolator filters (group 7 at the shop made by purolator) and dont usually have problems but those two were bad..
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Before BITOG..and a good bit into BITOG, I never had the notion to check the threads for residuals.
Now I'm absolutely sure that this was first nature to everyone else.
So, I can say that I've never had a problem with any filter in this regard ...simply because I never checked for it.
Now I'm absolutely sure that this was first nature to everyone else.
So, I can say that I've never had a problem with any filter in this regard ...simply because I never checked for it.
I was looking through the shelf of Motocraft FL400s filters at W mart, and all of the threads, while nicely cut, were loaded with metal fillings. It was bad enough to make me buy a Fram.....Extended Guard (only good fram 
).
My app calls for an FL910, but the new shorter fl400s now fits my application....but the threads, holy cow. I prefer my filters without their own wear metals thank you.
For those wondering, the XG3614 (Fl910 cross reference), has wonderful threads. This will be the second XG I have purchased. First one is still on the car. Never figured myself as a Fram user...go figure.
edit
I just read the other thread where this very issue is discussed (second page). I read it AFTER I posted in this one...
Anyways, maybe the flakes aren't that big a deal? Most of the other replies were people saying they simply wipe them out. I don't know, I never typically notice flakes on any of the other filters I have purchased, and those include M1, Fram, Wix (Napa Gold), Purolator P1 (blue cans), Motorcraft, Bosch, STP, and Supertech, (Puro, Wix, Champ, and Honeywell).
). My app calls for an FL910, but the new shorter fl400s now fits my application....but the threads, holy cow. I prefer my filters without their own wear metals thank you.
For those wondering, the XG3614 (Fl910 cross reference), has wonderful threads. This will be the second XG I have purchased. First one is still on the car. Never figured myself as a Fram user...go figure.
edit
I just read the other thread where this very issue is discussed (second page). I read it AFTER I posted in this one...
Anyways, maybe the flakes aren't that big a deal? Most of the other replies were people saying they simply wipe them out. I don't know, I never typically notice flakes on any of the other filters I have purchased, and those include M1, Fram, Wix (Napa Gold), Purolator P1 (blue cans), Motorcraft, Bosch, STP, and Supertech, (Puro, Wix, Champ, and Honeywell).
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It's an adjustment/fatigue issue with the cutter on the assembly line. Someone didn't do their PM. Probably due to being given 15 new tasks to perform due to cost cutting measures.
Metal filings in the oil filter??? Is that bad? Not for me we rebuild engines for a living...
If you see metal filings Dont buy it Period!
If you see metal filings Dont buy it Period!
I've never encountered metal shavings on a Pure One but I will admit I have more trouble getting the 30001 filter started back onto the engine during an oil change than any other filter. Must be something in the threads. I have to lay on my back and reach up through a small hole to access the filter(Dodge 4.7). I've since switched to the Bosch Distance Plus D3500 and it seems to thread on much easier than the Pure One.
What are the odds that fumbling around under there crossed threads occured and the problem is actually the male threads on the car. these oil filter threads are big enough and have a tiny task holding the filter snug. Once the contact with the gasket is broken these things spin very freely or there is a machine thread problem.
I have noticed that on other brands as well, but not so much on rolled thread bases. Seems to me it is better than in years past, remembering curls of thread left, enough to cut a finger put inside. Some of the cleanest threads I have seen in my limited experience are the Japanese Densos. I am trying to figure if the chips would be on the clean side, seems they would be. I guess engines are pretty tough, as sure as heck a lot of people are getting filters slapped on with dirty filter threads. This is sort of an interesting link:
http://www.filtercouncil.org/techdata/tsbs/94-3R1.pdf
http://www.filtercouncil.org/techdata/tsbs/94-3R1.pdf
I tried a P1 once (dark blue can) a few years ago. I had a very difficult time getting it started. I've since stuck with Wix/NG, MC, and even a K&N, and have never had any issues.
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