Getting Blades Off

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I wanted to sharpen the blades on my Dad's Cub Cadet Tractor.

I tried using a half inch ratchet, no luck.

I tried a Breaker Bar, no luck.

I do have an air impact wrench, but I will probably have to take the deck off.

I tried spraying some WD-40 on the bolts and I even had a 2X4 piece of wood blocking the blades, every other mower I have worked on has been no problem getting the blades off, anyone run into this same problem.
 
Don't waste your time with WD-40. It is not a penetrating oil.

I like Kroil, but PB Blaster or even Liquid Wrench would be a vast improvement over WD-40.

If you have acess, a carefully wielded MAPP gas torch will probably break the bolts free. I would prefer to let a good penetrating oil do its work first.
 
Get a pipe that will go over the handel on your breaker bar and try again , this will give you more leverage . You might need someone too hold the deck when you try this.
 
Suggest you drop the deck. Chances are the underside of the deck needs cleaning. With the deck removed, you'll have much less restriction to work on getting the blades off.
 
I am going to drop the deck, then it will be easier to work on, no matter how I position the piece of wood it just comes out, and there is not much room to work underneath.
 
Originally Posted By: simple_gifts
make sure they are not left handed threads... lol


Good point. The way to determine which way to turn the bolt is to turn the bolt the same direction that the blades turn.
 
I have an impact wrench, which I will use tommorow becuase the Breaker Bar did nothing.
 
++ on impact wrench. I use a set of vice-grips to keep the blade from spinning. Spray Kroil or my fave (PB blaster) on the bolts, let sit for 15 minutes. Then let the impact gun rip.

I did that on an edger attachment for my cheapo Troy-Bilt string trimmer, but you have to put a screwdriver in a slot to hold the axle bolt from turning. Bent the screwdriver and took a hunk of metal and my hand flesh. Should have used the Vice Grips.

Anyone wants a quick change edger attachment with a large chunk of the hub assembly missing, i have one cheap
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Dave
 
My Dad used a 2x4 or 4x4 to block the blade, a breaker bar, and 3-4ft of steel pipe on the end of the breaker bar. Came off after about 2 tries. Impact gun did nothing
 
If the blades are taken off at least once a year, the bolts won't usually seize. For that reason alone, it's a good idea to pull the blades for sharpening annually.
 
On the top of the deck I took the guards off and I noticed that each blade spindle has a nut on top, so I went ahead and hit each nut with some PB Blaster and I will let it soak in overnite.

Now that my Dad has a Grinder too sharpen the blades they will be taken off at least once or twice a year to sharpen.

Tommorow I will try with the Breaker Bar and put a box wrench on the top nut and see what happens.

I have this same setup with the blades on my Walk Behind Mower.
 
Originally Posted By: Hitzy
I use one of these to hold the blade
ag704s1.jpg

ag704i2.jpg



That's hilarious.

The picture shows a fancy device to hold the blade and then the guy uses an adjustable wrench? If it's all you got that will fit, I guess you have no choice.

I'll tell you this much, I'd be buying a decent wrench/socket set before I'd be buying anything like that. Neat device but totally unnecessary. A good size C-clamp would do the same job.
 
Originally Posted By: boraticus
Originally Posted By: Hitzy
I use one of these to hold the blade
ag704s1.jpg

ag704i2.jpg



That's hilarious.

The picture shows a fancy device to hold the blade and then the guy uses an adjustable wrench? If it's all you got that will fit, I guess you have no choice.

I'll tell you this much, I'd be buying a decent wrench/socket set before I'd be buying anything like that. Neat device but totally unnecessary. A good size C-clamp would do the same job.


It's the stores pic, thats not me using the wrench! I have proper tools :)
Anyway, I've used the block of wood method, worked fine on one side of my tractor deck where the chute is, didn't work on the other side at all. This thing was a whole $9 and does the trick and you are not limited to where you can clamp it on.
A C clamp would slide, this has 3 contact points and holds secure. I like cheap little tools like this that make jobs a whole lot easier.
 
"It's the stores pic, thats not me using the wrench! I have proper tools :)"

Trust me. I never suspected that it would be a picture of yourself doing the work. I could tell it was an advertising pic.

I'm certain that the vast majority of people participating here would have something better than an adjustable wrench to remove the blades. That's a tool that will help to remove skin from your knuckles before getting the blade off the machine.

I'm not one for gizmos. With a little ingenuity, there's usually something in the area that will suffice to get most things done. I enjoy the challenge of solving problems with what's readily available.
 
I drive the tractor on ramps and then hit the bolt with the 3/8 drive impact, just enough room. Not sure I could fit my 1/2 drive under there though.

Off topic: Since I switched to gators from the OEM blade they stay sharp for much longer. I just looked up when I put them on, June 08 and they're still sharp. I used to sharpen the OEM blades twice a year. YMMV
 
Originally Posted By: 97 GTP
Since I switched to gators from the OEM blade they stay sharp for much longer.


I have Gators on my Walk-Behind Mower and I have noticed the same thing.

I will try and get the blades off my Dad's mower and report back later today, I hit the bolts last nite with some PB Blaster and I did another soak on the bolts this morning too.
 
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