For hotter climates (South Carolina or Georgia) what are the pros and cons of using straight 30 in an air cooled engine? With the extreme heat, I don't anticipate a problem with engine start up, and with the oil being single grade, shearing would not be an issue either.
Straight 30
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From the manufactures manual (B&S) loss of power, and oil consumption can be caused by using a multi-weight oil during summer/warmer weather. Also I have seen the inside of air cooled engines that were run on multi weight oils, and synthetic at that with thick heavy varnish areas. I assume the multi weight oil burns off easier or during the engine warm up period, it may also shear easier ? I really don't have all the answers, however I do know my air cooled engines ( I have several old cast iron Kohlers, B&S etc) call for straight weight oils I run either Delo 400 or Rotella straight 30 in these engines even during winter months.
I ran straight 30 weight in my vfr for about 400 mile , it was frietening how thin it drained out at full temp.
it was like water or a very thin ATV oil, no drip in 30 seconds, I couldnt belive it. 10w30's do not thin this much.
I did it in the winter 45 to 60 degrees , it also seemed to have some oil drag too it. How can that be running so thin?
That was castrol stright 30 weight
it was like water or a very thin ATV oil, no drip in 30 seconds, I couldnt belive it. 10w30's do not thin this much.
I did it in the winter 45 to 60 degrees , it also seemed to have some oil drag too it. How can that be running so thin?
That was castrol stright 30 weight
My 4.0L Jeep loves SAE30. I can't wait till summer so I can use some of my stash.
30 is a standard oil for air cooled.
Originally Posted By: outoforder
For hotter climates (South Carolina or Georgia) what are the pros and cons of using straight 30 in an air cooled engine? With the extreme heat, I don't anticipate a problem with engine start up, and with the oil being single grade, shearing would not be an issue either.
Your right on the mark....the only improvement is to go with a synthetic straight weight such as Amsoil diesel or commercial oil selections.
For hotter climates (South Carolina or Georgia) what are the pros and cons of using straight 30 in an air cooled engine? With the extreme heat, I don't anticipate a problem with engine start up, and with the oil being single grade, shearing would not be an issue either.
Your right on the mark....the only improvement is to go with a synthetic straight weight such as Amsoil diesel or commercial oil selections.
One suggested synthetic Straight 30: Amsoil ACD SAE 30
I am not talking about a synthetic here, but isn't regular straight 30 kind of like the "cream corn" of oil? It is still good, but just doesn't meet the spec of a multi-grade oil. I read and article once that talked about how SAE 30 could basically be like a 20W50 that didn't meet the cold temp spec so they bottle it as 30Wt.
I should clarify that it's my air cooled yamaha v-star I was thinking of running straight 30 in for the summer.
Yeah its speced for a 20w40 oil like most air cooled Yamahas. I would not use a straight 30 in it then unless its cool out.
I run 15w40 in my 2007 Virago and boost up to a 20w50 or 15w50 in the hot summer.
I run 15w40 in my 2007 Virago and boost up to a 20w50 or 15w50 in the hot summer.
20w50 is heavy and drains heavy even when hot.
The 30 weight group II castrol atleast in my bike, drained like a cup of coffee, that thin. and this was not hot summer but winter on a water cooled bike that never saw more than 175 degree water temp during the 400 mile run I had it in there.
The 30 weight group II castrol atleast in my bike, drained like a cup of coffee, that thin. and this was not hot summer but winter on a water cooled bike that never saw more than 175 degree water temp during the 400 mile run I had it in there.
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Here ya go, put this in instead:
It has 100 years of race proven protection... in your V-Star!
It has 100 years of race proven protection... in your V-Star!
I'd much rather use a 20W-50 in an air cooled engine in the hot summer. Remember, you need oil thick enough to lube the hottest points inside the engine.
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