Replacing ac clutch on compressor?

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My gf`s car (1998 olds 88) is having some ac trouble. When you engage the ac compressor,the wheel that the belt runs on begins to vibrate and make alot of noise,acting as if it wants to slow the engine down. I went online and saw the clutch on the ac compressor can actually be replaced instead of replacing the entire compressor. Is this a fairly easy diy repair,or is it something that would be a total pita? I`ve never done this type of work on a car before.
 
The AC compressor clutch replacement is fairly straight forward. I would check your local library to see if they have access to a repair manual for the car first and read up on the replacement procedures. The biggest pitfall in installing a new clutch assembly is making sure that the air gap between the clutch facing and the compressor doesn't exceed the maximum distance specified by the manufacturer. (You'll need feeler gauges to set this gap correctly. Usually you'll have two or three shims pre-packaged with the clutch assembly to use on a trial fit basis to get the gap correct.)

I use Rock Auto for the majority of my parts now because even with the shipping, their prices and warranties are hard to beat locally. (Go on-line and search for the current Rock Auto 5% discount code before you order though.)

Hope this helps.
 
Sounds like the compressor is locking up and not a clutch problem. The clutch is working ok untill you power it up then the compressor cant spin and it makes sounds and slows the engine.
 
I seriously doubt it's the clutch...I've never heard of that problem before. Sounds like the compressor is about to it eats' lunch. I'd check the pressures on the low and high side first and see where they are at. Might help give you an idea as to what's going on. Did you, or anyone, put any of that freon stop leak in it? Did anyone put compressor oil in it?
 
Ditto on the above. Pull he belt off. Feel the pully for any looseness, tight spots. Turn the front clutch to see if the compressor is turning freely. Usually when people talk about a bad clutch, thay mean a bad pully/bearing. A bad pully will wobble/vibrate all the time, often getting better when the AC compressor is engaged.
 
GM cars are known for eating compressor clutches. Something goes inside the clutch and starts grinding.

Getting at the compressor on your car is easy, through the passenger wheel well. It's everything else that's a pain, such as recovering the R134, and evacuating the system after.

AC's expensive...
 
GM AC clutches are in fact a common problem area, whereas the compressors are pretty solid.

The problem is that the clutch gap changes over time and requires readjustment. In both of my past GMs, the clutch gap actually shrank because the clutch face "walked" itself in toward the compressor. If you don't catch it in time, the clutch grinds itself to failure. There's a special tool for making the adjustment; I consider it to be a "must-have" for GM owners (who are handy).

With all of that said, the OP's description does sound more like a compressor problem.
 
It SHOULD drag the engine down - this is normal.
If it has not been used for a while, there may be debris and rust on the clutch faces.
Before you throw parts on it, do more testing.
It is unlikely that the compressor is bad if it was not bad before.
Oil has to circulate.
See if you can run it for 10 minutes with the AC on.
 
I had to adjust the clutch on a 330,000-mile Volvo 850 once. It wasn't so bad once the alt, p/s pump, and about 1/2 the engine were removed.

It used shims. Took about 3 hours to remove 3 small washers.

The squad cars at work seem to need to be regapped once in a while. I consider it normal maintenance.

My BMW and Audi have "variable-displacement" compressors. I assume that the purpose is to ease the load across the clutch and serp belt as the compressor engages.
 
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In the case of complete compressor replacement,what`s the best route to get one? AC Delco from a GM dealer,or generic new part from an auto parts chain?
 
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