New Husqvarna with 20hp intek oil suggestions

[doitmyself]

Originally Posted By: kcfx4
well i am definately glad you stressed the importance of using the proper filter.... unfortunately ppl just do whatever to their ope, alot of ppl do not understand the hot dusty conditions these small aircooled (and water cooled) engines are under. and anyone who has the money to buy quality equipment, whats the big deal on spending some money to maintain it?


That's why I'm surprised you use SM Valvoline oil in your engines. Did you see the recent thread about OPE air cooled engine oil temps?

 

[kcfx4]

no i didnt, but i change it often, in reality what im doing is probably overkill. and as the briggs oil may state hdeo on the bottle, i cant find anything saying thats a recommendation nor a requirement. kawasaki for one doesnt (to my knowledge) have their own label small engine oil, but they are one of the largest stresseres of straight 30 weight oil. and honestly when i changed it this spring, the oil that came out looked nearly new. so theres no doubt im over doing it. but as to the way my mind works id much rather over doit than to under do it..way i see it, oil and filter is absolutely the cheapest insurance one can buy. and if i had a new or nice cycle, im sure id change oil and filter every 1500 miles or so, because if i can feeseably afford the bike, i sure can afford the oil and filter.

 

[kcfx4]

as for the reason i continue the valvoline sae30, well im going to sound like (bortacis) here but ive always used it with good luck, and straight weight oil seems to be harder and harder to find. i know excuses excuses. but what do you run in your ope doitmyself, oil and filter?

 

[boraticus]

quote from doitmysef "Of course it will."

Ok then, now on to step two.

If I have an oil filter on a piece of equipment that says to change the filter every 200 hours, can I use that same filter four times if I change the oil every 50 hours?

If filter "A" can be used for 200 hours on a diesel generator cleaning three times the amount of oil, in a much more demanding environment, why would that same filter, if used on a less demanding engine, not be suitable to be used two or more times with 50 hour oil changes?

Considering this and the previous example, it's abundantly clear that OPE filters are designed for considerably longer durations than what many of us use them for.

I'm having difficulty understanding why you would refer to this as anecdotal evidence? Looks like fairly simple logic to me.

 

[kcfx4]

if your taking the time to change the oil, why why why on earth would you not change the filter?????? for one thing it makes things simpler, if noting else its simpler. most ford and gm 4 and 6cylinders take exactly 4.5 quarts of oil w filter change. so its simple i change the filter and use 4.5 quarts of oil. there isnt no "guess and check" done there, i dont need a calculator to figure out how much x amount of a quart is, i dont spent 15minutes putn the dipstick in, adding a little oil, checking it and repeating the process 10x. and MOST important.... im NOT taking any RISK

 

[kcfx4]

boraticus, i even took this a step further last night, being curious i posted "used filter" in the gasoline cars section. i asked why and if its okay to reuse a filter. i got numerous replys, both ways in fact. but ive yet to read a single piece of evidence proving that it filters any better and or its a good idea. if there was a sight glass on oil filters and you could somehow see whats going on in there, that would be one thing. doitmyself gave a specific reason and example of why it is (can be) a bad practice. Im sure as im sitting here, that if there was an engine Bible, that somewhere in the first chapter it would be plainly written that if the drain plug comes out, the filter is not to be reused. you and or anyone else have no proof what-so-ever that this is a good idea, and im sure this has been debated for years, so after all this debate....where is the proof? its a risk.....a risk i seriously want to understand why your taking?

 

[doitmyself]

Boraticus, I stated above that one reason to change filters every OCI was to avoid risks of a faulty factory filter...no way to check (a stretch, I agree). Again, I don't disagree with multiple filter use depending on the situation.

I'm not convinced that the OPE engine is less demanding, relatively speaking, than a diesel generator engine. The diesel "should" have a substantial cooling system (water or air), it should have a relatively larger oil sump, and speaking in generalities, they usually have better air filtration systems.....all things that make it easier on the oil. Commercial grade air cooled OPE engines better match the diesel systems. I believe that gas powered, air cooled OPE engines are brutal on oil.

My workplace industrial Kohler generator with Ford engine specifies 100 hr. oil/filter change. I doubt that it's filter is "lesser" than your 200 hour OCI filter. It's just a judgement recommendation from the mfg..

It's not abundantly clear to me that OPE filters are designed for longer durations, nor do I think all automotive filters are designed for extended OCI.

Anectdotal? You have only presented personal experience to back up your claims. There is no data or scientific evidence. My grandfather example above is anecdotal. I interpret the phrase simple logic the same as I do the term common sense. Neither means the same for different individuals.

I think that my choices are logical and I think yours are too. They are just different (but mine are better

).

 

[doitmyself]

Originally Posted By: kcfx4
as for the reason i continue the valvoline sae30, well im going to sound like (bortacis) here but ive always used it with good luck, and straight weight oil seems to be harder and harder to find. i know excuses excuses. but what do you run in your ope doitmyself, oil and filter?


I generally follow the manual and use OEM filters (I get a huge JD discount) or NAPA Gold filters. The JD filters are convenient and sometimes WIX does not have all of my applications. I don't sway from the filter spec. recommendations i.e. Exmark wants a 10 micron filter on the hyd. drive system.

My workplace Exmark with Kawasaki eng. gets 30wt. Rotella. I'm considering using Amsoil ASE or ACD.

My JD Gator with Kawasaki gets Pennzoil SM 10w30! This engine gets used year-round,rarely gets worked hard, but sees VERY frequent start/stop cycles and I consider start up wear more important in this application. I would change to a HDEO 10W30 if someone shows me one with the easier flow characteristics of the SM (maybe it's irrelevant,but the engine will outlast the machine with either, I bet).

Push mowers are 2 cycle commercial Toro (old). Stihl chainsaws, trimmers, blowers get Stihl OEM fluids.

This discussion is not much different than trying to discuss politics, really.

Good day everyone. It was a fun way to wait out the rainy day.

 

[rclint]

I'm going to throw out another thought for you. Do these engines really even need a filter to begin with ? Sure it helps, however the heat cycle alone may be the killer of these engines. Look how long B&S engines made it on no filter at all. I HAVE Kohler Cast iron engines that have no filter at all, these engines outlast B&S engines by multitudes to say the least. I really like a B&S engine, however I think the filter is a selling point, along with poorer air filtration.

My opinion HDEO SAE30 is a perfect match for these small air cooled engines.

 

[boraticus]

Some people spend a lot of money suppressing their mechanical fears. Some of it could be OCD or anal retention.

After all, how do you know if your oil filter is really working? Maybe it's not? Better change it. Maybe that one's not working either? Better change that one. What if that one isn't working? And on and on and on.

Personally, I have confidence in the components I install. I save a lot of money by having confidence in my stuff including re-using oil filters. I rest easy too. Nothing breaks, everything works, been doing so for decades. Why worry?