Honda CN4 Oil
- Thread starter Lurch
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What do you mean by "better"? Either oil will work well, just don't go past the limitations of the oil you choose. If the bike has a wet clutch, you have to consider that as well. I would get on a bike forum and ask this question.
I would stick with a good performace MOTORCYCLE synthetic in a high revving bike and leave the HDEO to slow moving v-twins.
Either oil will work just fine.
If you're not going to be racing the bike or riding in cold weather (below freezing), Rotella 15W40 will do just fine. If you're going to be riding in cold temps and flogging the bike hard, I'd recommend Rotella T6 5W40 synthetic. It's JASO approved. If you're not going to be riding it like a mad man all the time and not riding in cold weather, regular oil changes with any decent brand name 15W40 will be a good choice. I use Rotella 15W40 in my KLR650 and Valkyrie. Shell Rotella 15W40 is also JASO approved.
If you're not going to be racing the bike or riding in cold weather (below freezing), Rotella 15W40 will do just fine. If you're going to be riding in cold temps and flogging the bike hard, I'd recommend Rotella T6 5W40 synthetic. It's JASO approved. If you're not going to be riding it like a mad man all the time and not riding in cold weather, regular oil changes with any decent brand name 15W40 will be a good choice. I use Rotella 15W40 in my KLR650 and Valkyrie. Shell Rotella 15W40 is also JASO approved.
Originally Posted By: boraticus
Either oil will work just fine.
If you're not going to be racing the bike or riding in cold weather (below freezing), Rotella 15W40 will do just fine. If you're going to be riding in cold temps and flogging the bike hard, I'd recommend Rotella T6 5W40 synthetic. It's JASO approved. If you're not going to be riding it like a mad man all the time and not riding in cold weather, regular oil changes with any decent brand name 15W40 will be a good choice. I use Rotella 15W40 in my KLR650 and Valkyrie. Shell Rotella 15W40 is also JASO approved.
What boraticus said,a HDEO WILL work just fine,no issues!!!!
Either oil will work just fine.
If you're not going to be racing the bike or riding in cold weather (below freezing), Rotella 15W40 will do just fine. If you're going to be riding in cold temps and flogging the bike hard, I'd recommend Rotella T6 5W40 synthetic. It's JASO approved. If you're not going to be riding it like a mad man all the time and not riding in cold weather, regular oil changes with any decent brand name 15W40 will be a good choice. I use Rotella 15W40 in my KLR650 and Valkyrie. Shell Rotella 15W40 is also JASO approved.
What boraticus said,a HDEO WILL work just fine,no issues!!!!
Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
I would stick with a good performace MOTORCYCLE synthetic in a high revving bike and leave the HDEO to slow moving v-twins.
Why is that?
I would stick with a good performace MOTORCYCLE synthetic in a high revving bike and leave the HDEO to slow moving v-twins.
Why is that?
Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
I would stick with a good performace MOTORCYCLE synthetic in a high revving bike and leave the HDEO to slow moving v-twins.
I disagree completely -- that is an air-cooled engine with a shared-oil transmission. HDEO would be an ideal oil for that engine. I recommend Rotella 15w-40 (or comperable) whole-heartedly. Those engines are robust in the extreme, and will last many, many miles with HDEOs.
I would stick with a good performace MOTORCYCLE synthetic in a high revving bike and leave the HDEO to slow moving v-twins.
I disagree completely -- that is an air-cooled engine with a shared-oil transmission. HDEO would be an ideal oil for that engine. I recommend Rotella 15w-40 (or comperable) whole-heartedly. Those engines are robust in the extreme, and will last many, many miles with HDEOs.
Originally Posted By: Zedhed
Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
I would stick with a good performace MOTORCYCLE synthetic in a high revving bike and leave the HDEO to slow moving v-twins.
I disagree completely -- that is an air-cooled engine with a shared-oil transmission. HDEO would be an ideal oil for that engine. I recommend Rotella 15w-40 (or comperable) whole-heartedly. Those engines are robust in the extreme, and will last many, many miles with HDEOs.
Oh come on now one needs to buy that crazy priced MC oil with the magic MC fairy dust in it nothing else will work.
Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
I would stick with a good performace MOTORCYCLE synthetic in a high revving bike and leave the HDEO to slow moving v-twins.
I disagree completely -- that is an air-cooled engine with a shared-oil transmission. HDEO would be an ideal oil for that engine. I recommend Rotella 15w-40 (or comperable) whole-heartedly. Those engines are robust in the extreme, and will last many, many miles with HDEOs.
Oh come on now one needs to buy that crazy priced MC oil with the magic MC fairy dust in it nothing else will work.
Originally Posted By: boraticus
Either oil will work just fine.
If you're not going to be racing the bike or riding in cold weather (below freezing), Rotella 15W40 will do just fine. If you're going to be riding in cold temps and flogging the bike hard, I'd recommend Rotella T6 5W40 synthetic. It's JASO approved. If you're not going to be riding it like a mad man all the time and not riding in cold weather, regular oil changes with any decent brand name 15W40 will be a good choice. I use Rotella 15W40 in my KLR650 and Valkyrie. Shell Rotella 15W40 is also JASO approved.
Good to hear this. I ran Rotella T 15-40 in the United Motors 250R I sold a few days ago and it seemed to be a very good oil in that.
I did buy the bike. It has a wet clutch, he told me, so I presume Rotella T will be OK in it.
It's actually Honda GN4 oil that he has in it now. He says it's a very good oil so I'll run it for 2k miles, which is the OCI the bike has always been changed at. Original owner used Kawasaki oil in it. It's got 10.5k miles and runs like new. I am going to baby that thing.
Either oil will work just fine.
If you're not going to be racing the bike or riding in cold weather (below freezing), Rotella 15W40 will do just fine. If you're going to be riding in cold temps and flogging the bike hard, I'd recommend Rotella T6 5W40 synthetic. It's JASO approved. If you're not going to be riding it like a mad man all the time and not riding in cold weather, regular oil changes with any decent brand name 15W40 will be a good choice. I use Rotella 15W40 in my KLR650 and Valkyrie. Shell Rotella 15W40 is also JASO approved.
Good to hear this. I ran Rotella T 15-40 in the United Motors 250R I sold a few days ago and it seemed to be a very good oil in that.
I did buy the bike. It has a wet clutch, he told me, so I presume Rotella T will be OK in it.
It's actually Honda GN4 oil that he has in it now. He says it's a very good oil so I'll run it for 2k miles, which is the OCI the bike has always been changed at. Original owner used Kawasaki oil in it. It's got 10.5k miles and runs like new. I am going to baby that thing.
Originally Posted By: daman
Oh come on now one needs to buy that crazy priced MC oil with the magic MC fairy dust in it nothing else will work.
My fairy dust is better than your fairy dust.......
Oh come on now one needs to buy that crazy priced MC oil with the magic MC fairy dust in it nothing else will work.
My fairy dust is better than your fairy dust.......
Originally Posted By: Lurch
It's got 10.5k miles and runs like new. I am going to baby that thing.
Why? It's doesn't need to be babied. You can thrash the helI out of it and it will run forever. That engine is the direct descendant of the mighty Z1 engine. You couldn't tear it up if you tried. It will last forever no matter how you ride it. Just change the oil and filter regularly and don't plan on outliving it.
It's got 10.5k miles and runs like new. I am going to baby that thing.
Why? It's doesn't need to be babied. You can thrash the helI out of it and it will run forever. That engine is the direct descendant of the mighty Z1 engine. You couldn't tear it up if you tried. It will last forever no matter how you ride it. Just change the oil and filter regularly and don't plan on outliving it.
Originally Posted By: Zedhed
Originally Posted By: daman
Oh come on now one needs to buy that crazy priced MC oil with the magic MC fairy dust in it nothing else will work.
My fairy dust is better than your fairy dust.......
Originally Posted By: daman
Oh come on now one needs to buy that crazy priced MC oil with the magic MC fairy dust in it nothing else will work.
My fairy dust is better than your fairy dust.......
Nothing wrong with the Honda GN/4 oil. It's a run of the mill conventional oil.
Since it has the magical Honda name on it, you have to pay extra.
There are other better oils for less money.
Since it has the magical Honda name on it, you have to pay extra.
There are other better oils for less money.
Originally Posted By: daman
Originally Posted By: Zedhed
Originally Posted By: daman
Oh come on now one needs to buy that crazy priced MC oil with the magic MC fairy dust in it nothing else will work.
My fairy dust is better than your fairy dust.......
OK. On paper, HDEO oils have TOO much detergent, abrasive detergent(Mg), too high a HTHS for good power, and marginal detergent to EP ratio. Will it work O.K. in a non-racing scenario? - Yes. Is it optimal - NO. I would run a 1 qt M1 R4T and the balance of M1 0w-30 or Valvoline synpower 10w-30 after break-in.
Originally Posted By: Zedhed
Originally Posted By: daman
Oh come on now one needs to buy that crazy priced MC oil with the magic MC fairy dust in it nothing else will work.
My fairy dust is better than your fairy dust.......
OK. On paper, HDEO oils have TOO much detergent, abrasive detergent(Mg), too high a HTHS for good power, and marginal detergent to EP ratio. Will it work O.K. in a non-racing scenario? - Yes. Is it optimal - NO. I would run a 1 qt M1 R4T and the balance of M1 0w-30 or Valvoline synpower 10w-30 after break-in.
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
Originally Posted By: daman
Originally Posted By: Zedhed
Originally Posted By: daman
Oh come on now one needs to buy that crazy priced MC oil with the magic MC fairy dust in it nothing else will work.
My fairy dust is better than your fairy dust.......
OK. On paper, HDEO oils have TOO much detergent, abrasive detergent(Mg), too high a HTHS for good power, and marginal detergent to EP ratio. Will it work O.K. in a non-racing scenario? - Yes. Is it optimal - NO. I would run a 1 qt M1 R4T and the balance of M1 0w-30 or Valvoline synpower 10w-30 after break-in.
A HDEO will work just fine NO issues!!!!
Originally Posted By: daman
Originally Posted By: Zedhed
Originally Posted By: daman
Oh come on now one needs to buy that crazy priced MC oil with the magic MC fairy dust in it nothing else will work.
My fairy dust is better than your fairy dust.......
OK. On paper, HDEO oils have TOO much detergent, abrasive detergent(Mg), too high a HTHS for good power, and marginal detergent to EP ratio. Will it work O.K. in a non-racing scenario? - Yes. Is it optimal - NO. I would run a 1 qt M1 R4T and the balance of M1 0w-30 or Valvoline synpower 10w-30 after break-in.
A HDEO will work just fine NO issues!!!!
Now I'm confused.
It's got fresh Honda GN4 10-40 in it now. I may run it 2000 miles, then put in Rotella T 15-40, which I have a feeling is better than GN4 10-40.
I don't ride in weather below 40*F. I usually ride in temps 50 to 85*F.
Zedhed has a good point. with reasonable TLC bike will probably hold up very good.
It's got fresh Honda GN4 10-40 in it now. I may run it 2000 miles, then put in Rotella T 15-40, which I have a feeling is better than GN4 10-40.
I don't ride in weather below 40*F. I usually ride in temps 50 to 85*F.
Zedhed has a good point. with reasonable TLC bike will probably hold up very good.
Originally Posted By: dwendt44
Nothing wrong with the Honda GN/4 oil. It's a run of the mill conventional oil.
Since it has the magical Honda name on it, you have to pay extra.
There are other better oils for less money.
Please suggest some brands if you would. Keep in mind the bike has a wet clutch so I don't think it can be any car oil.
Nothing wrong with the Honda GN/4 oil. It's a run of the mill conventional oil.
Since it has the magical Honda name on it, you have to pay extra.
There are other better oils for less money.
Please suggest some brands if you would. Keep in mind the bike has a wet clutch so I don't think it can be any car oil.
After running the honda oil and you run the rotella, you can be the judge if it is affecting high rpm power - or not. Try it you likey maybe 
I've run Rotella t, Delo 400, and Delvac 15/40 in my old Goldwing. Have taken it up to the redline with each oil and frankly can't tell any difference in performance. Now when it comes to shift quality, Rotella shifted notchy/ crunchy, Delo 400 was better, and Delvac 1300 shifts the best. Smoother , quiet shifts. I change the oil once a year, at between 3-4k miles. That's my story and I'm stickin to it.,,,,
Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
OK. On paper, HDEO oils have TOO much detergent, abrasive detergent(Mg), too high a HTHS for good power, and marginal detergent to EP ratio. Will it work O.K. in a non-racing scenario? - Yes. Is it optimal - NO. I would run a 1 qt M1 R4T and the balance of M1 0w-30 or Valvoline synpower 10w-30 after break-in.
Given the many great UOAs from motorcycles using HDEOs, I would have to disagree with your statement. Just go look at all the UOAs in the proper section. No arguing with great results....
OK. On paper, HDEO oils have TOO much detergent, abrasive detergent(Mg), too high a HTHS for good power, and marginal detergent to EP ratio. Will it work O.K. in a non-racing scenario? - Yes. Is it optimal - NO. I would run a 1 qt M1 R4T and the balance of M1 0w-30 or Valvoline synpower 10w-30 after break-in.
Given the many great UOAs from motorcycles using HDEOs, I would have to disagree with your statement. Just go look at all the UOAs in the proper section. No arguing with great results....
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