I purchased my first ATV last fall (mainly for hunting purposes). It's a Suzuki King Quad 450 AXI. The manual recommends 10W40 motorcycle oil. Last summer I scored a bunch of Pennzoil Platimum 5W30 and 10W30 at $1/quart (thanks to those wonderful rebates). How does PP compare to the motorcycle oils recommended by Suzuki? How are they different than PP? Can I use PP in the ATV? How about the differential oils. I am currently using Royal Purple in the differentials of our family automobile, do you think the same differential oil would provide more than adequate protection in the ATV?
New Suzuki King Quad
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does your atvs engine share the oil with the transmission? if so i dont believe the PP was designed for the "double duty" the suzuki oil was made for.. Is your engine air cooled or water cooled? If your transmission shares the same sump as the engine them gears can really do a number on that regular car oil, with the shearing of the trany. I think websites like mobil1 talk about the difference between their automotive and motorcycle oils in the same weight. you might want to get that a read
Your engine is liquid cooled right? I'm assuming it's an automatic so you will have not potential wet clutch issues with friction modifiers.
Don't sweat the recommendation for motorcycle oil. That's B.$. I've owned and operated Suzuki air and liquid cooled engined ATVs for twenty six years and never had an oil related problem and I've NEVER used a motorcycle specific oil. I'd say Suzuki engines are as good as anything out there and don't require any special lubrication although, proper viscosity oil should be used.
I presently own and operate two liquid cooled 500cc ATVs. One auto and one manual. As with all of my motorcycle/ATV engines, I run HDEO (Shell Rotella 15W40) conventional oil. Not sure what kind of riding you will be doing but if you're going to be punishing the machine with lots of high revs going through deep water, mud and dust, you'll be better off with HDEO.
If you're going to be taking it easy on the machine (normal ATV riding), I wouldn't be too concerned using either 5W30 or 10W30 at least for your initial short term oil changes and wouldn't be hesitant to use it in cooler temps.
What I find unusual, is that my 500s each have different oil recommendations. My 2006 auto recommends 10W40 but my 2007 manual recommends 10W30?? Go figure. Not that it matters to me. I run 15W40 unless running them in the winter. Then I use 5W30.
The most important thing about lubrication used in ATVs is frequent oil changes. The nastier the conditions, the harder the engine is pushed, the more frequent the OCI should be. I used to do mine every 500 miles. I've since changed that to 1000 miles because the oil was coming out almost as clean as it went in. These machines aren't seeing the hard service that my old air cooled Suzukis did.
If you plan on doing year round riding, you might want to use HDEO during hot weather and switch to the lighter oil during cooler temperatures. That's what I'd do.
A word of warning.... Keep an eye on your CV joint boots. If you're riding in recently cut woodlands with lots of stubble and sticks protruding out of the ground, your chances of tearing a boot are pretty good. It happened to me. And, I'll tell you, replacing a boot is a lot of work and a bit complicated for the uninitiated. If you bring it in to a shop, there will be a hefty bill for your reward.
Don't sweat the recommendation for motorcycle oil. That's B.$. I've owned and operated Suzuki air and liquid cooled engined ATVs for twenty six years and never had an oil related problem and I've NEVER used a motorcycle specific oil. I'd say Suzuki engines are as good as anything out there and don't require any special lubrication although, proper viscosity oil should be used.
I presently own and operate two liquid cooled 500cc ATVs. One auto and one manual. As with all of my motorcycle/ATV engines, I run HDEO (Shell Rotella 15W40) conventional oil. Not sure what kind of riding you will be doing but if you're going to be punishing the machine with lots of high revs going through deep water, mud and dust, you'll be better off with HDEO.
If you're going to be taking it easy on the machine (normal ATV riding), I wouldn't be too concerned using either 5W30 or 10W30 at least for your initial short term oil changes and wouldn't be hesitant to use it in cooler temps.
What I find unusual, is that my 500s each have different oil recommendations. My 2006 auto recommends 10W40 but my 2007 manual recommends 10W30?? Go figure. Not that it matters to me. I run 15W40 unless running them in the winter. Then I use 5W30.
The most important thing about lubrication used in ATVs is frequent oil changes. The nastier the conditions, the harder the engine is pushed, the more frequent the OCI should be. I used to do mine every 500 miles. I've since changed that to 1000 miles because the oil was coming out almost as clean as it went in. These machines aren't seeing the hard service that my old air cooled Suzukis did.
If you plan on doing year round riding, you might want to use HDEO during hot weather and switch to the lighter oil during cooler temperatures. That's what I'd do.
A word of warning.... Keep an eye on your CV joint boots. If you're riding in recently cut woodlands with lots of stubble and sticks protruding out of the ground, your chances of tearing a boot are pretty good. It happened to me. And, I'll tell you, replacing a boot is a lot of work and a bit complicated for the uninitiated. If you bring it in to a shop, there will be a hefty bill for your reward.
I would like to answer a few questions. It's an automatic and is liquid cooled. The engine oil also lubricates the transmission. Interestingly enough, the transmission is a CVT. I'm not a dare-devil and won't punish the machine much at all. I'll just use it to take me into the woods at a slow speed and return at the end of the hunt (Hopefully with something strapped to the rear rack). I plan on yearly changes of fluids before the start of the hunting season. The front differential recommends SAE 90W except in cold climates where SAE 80W is recommended. I'm thinking of using the same Royal Purple 75W90 gear lube used in our vehicle. Using the Platinum for both engine and transmission lubrication makes me nervous though. I just would like to know if it is a marketing ploy or does the motorcycle oils have added benefits since it is used in a dual role. Boraticus, thanks for the comments.
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Your application like all atv's would operate GREAT and be protected well/better on any brand Diesel HDEO,15w40,5w40,10w30 simple,done......
absolutely no need for that rip off high priced MC oil.
absolutely no need for that rip off high priced MC oil.
A CVT is not like conventional transmissions. There are no gears involved. It's clutches and a belt that run in a dry enclosure. Your engine spins the drive clutch which is connected to the driven clutch via the belt. No oil or gears involved. The oil is to lubricate the engine only. You could use the oil you have but, as per my previous message, HDEO would be my preference. If I did not have access to HDEO and had the oil you have on hand, I'd not hesitate to use it if an oil change was required. Considering that you will have to dump the oil you have in the machine now at the 50 mile mark, I'd put in some 10W30, run it for a couple hundred miles then dump that. I'd then put in some 15W40. I like to do one more short duration change after the initial 50 mile change just ensure I have a good flush of whatever manufacturing grit might be in there.
Here's some more advice. You don't need to change your filter at every oil change. I do it every third change.
Keep your air filter clean and make sure the drain plugs in the bottom of the air box are in good and tight.
Watch your tire inflation. You will be amazed how much one low tire will cause ill handling on an ATV. If you feel pulling to one side, check your tire pressure first.
Put an in-line fuel filter in the machine. It will save you grief down the road.
Here's some more advice. You don't need to change your filter at every oil change. I do it every third change.
Keep your air filter clean and make sure the drain plugs in the bottom of the air box are in good and tight.
Watch your tire inflation. You will be amazed how much one low tire will cause ill handling on an ATV. If you feel pulling to one side, check your tire pressure first.
Put an in-line fuel filter in the machine. It will save you grief down the road.
Looks like the K&N 138 is a replacement for the Suzuki oil filter. I'm just trying to prevent running to the Suzuki store (15 miles away) and find a common replacement that is easier to find.
Don't worry about the oil filter. It's got plenty of life left in it. As I previously said, myself and many people I know, change the filter every third oil change. I'd do at least two changes before replacing the filter.
Shop around for any decent quality filter, buy a few of them when they're being sold for a good price.
Shop around for any decent quality filter, buy a few of them when they're being sold for a good price.
Do what the manual says regarding frequency of oil/filter changes. While not absolute, try and use an oil designed for motorcycle/ATV use....and stay as close as possible to the required viscosity. Same with differential in regard to viscosity.
Don't vary too much from what the manufacturer advises....not a good idea. The brand is not essential...but the type of oil, what is is designed FOR, and the proper viscosity, is important. So many backyard mechanics have opinions on oil that have nothing more to do than what was 'on sale', left over in the garage, or because they are brand loyal. Saying stuff like...'never had a problem using....blah blah blah' really doesn't verify the validity of a particular oil.
Don't vary too much from what the manufacturer advises....not a good idea. The brand is not essential...but the type of oil, what is is designed FOR, and the proper viscosity, is important. So many backyard mechanics have opinions on oil that have nothing more to do than what was 'on sale', left over in the garage, or because they are brand loyal. Saying stuff like...'never had a problem using....blah blah blah' really doesn't verify the validity of a particular oil.
Originally Posted By: andrewg
use an oil designed for motorcycle/ATV use....and stay as close as possible to the required viscosity.So many backyard mechanics have opinions on oil that have nothing more to do than what was 'on sale', Saying stuff like...'never had a problem using....blah blah blah' really doesn't verify the validity of a particular oil.
Boy you really got it all figured out don't you?? your my hero..
ok tell me then, what additives or any make up in a HDEO will HURT or hinder the performance of ANY ATV or MC wet clutch or not?????? what are they??????
boy i guess me and ALL the millions of MC owners are jeopardizing our equipment huh??
there's no magic fairy dust in a ATV,MC specific oil that makes you HAVE to use it,it's marketing bro!!!
use an oil designed for motorcycle/ATV use....and stay as close as possible to the required viscosity.So many backyard mechanics have opinions on oil that have nothing more to do than what was 'on sale', Saying stuff like...'never had a problem using....blah blah blah' really doesn't verify the validity of a particular oil.
Boy you really got it all figured out don't you?? your my hero..
ok tell me then, what additives or any make up in a HDEO will HURT or hinder the performance of ANY ATV or MC wet clutch or not?????? what are they??????
boy i guess me and ALL the millions of MC owners are jeopardizing our equipment huh??
there's no magic fairy dust in a ATV,MC specific oil that makes you HAVE to use it,it's marketing bro!!!
HDEO and dedicated MC oil is fine for wet clutchs, neither has the friction modifiers that can cause the slipping.
Shell actually had the Rotella JASO MA approved mostly because everyone and their mother were already running it in their bikes.
That said, I probably would not run a 5w30 or 10w30 PCMO in a wet clutch application.
Shell actually had the Rotella JASO MA approved mostly because everyone and their mother were already running it in their bikes.
That said, I probably would not run a 5w30 or 10w30 PCMO in a wet clutch application.
Originally Posted By: daman
ok tell me then, what additives or any make up in a HDEO will HURT or hinder the performance of ANY ATV or MC wet clutch or not?????? what are they??????
boy i guess me and ALL the millions of MC owners are jeopardizing our equipment huh??
Millions of smokers still believe that there is no harm in cigarette smoking, so they continue to smoke and smoke and smoke.
ATV and MC oil do contain a higher amount of silicon than automotive oil to prevent foaming.
ok tell me then, what additives or any make up in a HDEO will HURT or hinder the performance of ANY ATV or MC wet clutch or not?????? what are they??????
boy i guess me and ALL the millions of MC owners are jeopardizing our equipment huh??
Millions of smokers still believe that there is no harm in cigarette smoking, so they continue to smoke and smoke and smoke.
ATV and MC oil do contain a higher amount of silicon than automotive oil to prevent foaming.
Originally Posted By: azsynthetic
Originally Posted By: daman
ok tell me then, what additives or any make up in a HDEO will HURT or hinder the performance of ANY ATV or MC wet clutch or not?????? what are they??????
boy i guess me and ALL the millions of MC owners are jeopardizing our equipment huh??
Millions of smokers still believe that there is no harm in cigarette smoking, so they continue to smoke and smoke and smoke.
ATV and MC oil do contain a higher amount of silicon than automotive oil to prevent foaming.
What a bunch of B.S,silicon to prevent foaming? not in all cases look at the UOA section a HDEO in most cases will have MORE silicon then a MC oil diesels have foaming problems?
give up your argument it's a lost cause a HDEO works perfectly fine in any ATV,MC.
Originally Posted By: daman
ok tell me then, what additives or any make up in a HDEO will HURT or hinder the performance of ANY ATV or MC wet clutch or not?????? what are they??????
boy i guess me and ALL the millions of MC owners are jeopardizing our equipment huh??
Millions of smokers still believe that there is no harm in cigarette smoking, so they continue to smoke and smoke and smoke.
ATV and MC oil do contain a higher amount of silicon than automotive oil to prevent foaming.
What a bunch of B.S,silicon to prevent foaming? not in all cases look at the UOA section a HDEO in most cases will have MORE silicon then a MC oil diesels have foaming problems?
give up your argument it's a lost cause a HDEO works perfectly fine in any ATV,MC.
I have discussed this many times in the past (check the archive), but you will never find HDEO or any automotive oil in the winning circle of any professional motorcycle races for a reason. You want to be cheap then so be it, not my bike. BTW, you should look at VOA and not UOA for silicon in motorcycle oil. Should I tell you why?
Originally Posted By: daman
Originally Posted By: andrewg
use an oil designed for motorcycle/ATV use....and stay as close as possible to the required viscosity.So many backyard mechanics have opinions on oil that have nothing more to do than what was 'on sale', Saying stuff like...'never had a problem using....blah blah blah' really doesn't verify the validity of a particular oil.
Boy you really got it all figured out don't you?? your my hero..
ok tell me then, what additives or any make up in a HDEO will HURT or hinder the performance of ANY ATV or MC wet clutch or not?????? what are they??????
boy i guess me and ALL the millions of MC owners are jeopardizing our equipment huh??
there's no magic fairy dust in a ATV,MC specific oil that makes you HAVE to use it,it's marketing bro!!!
And I thought my dog was the only one that thought of me that way.....thank you.
Originally Posted By: andrewg
use an oil designed for motorcycle/ATV use....and stay as close as possible to the required viscosity.So many backyard mechanics have opinions on oil that have nothing more to do than what was 'on sale', Saying stuff like...'never had a problem using....blah blah blah' really doesn't verify the validity of a particular oil.
Boy you really got it all figured out don't you?? your my hero..
ok tell me then, what additives or any make up in a HDEO will HURT or hinder the performance of ANY ATV or MC wet clutch or not?????? what are they??????
boy i guess me and ALL the millions of MC owners are jeopardizing our equipment huh??
there's no magic fairy dust in a ATV,MC specific oil that makes you HAVE to use it,it's marketing bro!!!
And I thought my dog was the only one that thought of me that way.....thank you.
Originally Posted By: azsynthetic
BTW, you should look at VOA and not UOA for silicon in motorcycle oil. Should I tell you why?
Oh yes wise one would you?
and i have, it's the same or close,whats your next argument going to be? and i said a additive that could hurt a engine.
last time i check my oil level im my quad i dont remember any oil foam blasting out at me,hmmmm
and guess what not only a HDEO works one can use M1 15w50 also thats a good choice with no issues at all
BTW, you should look at VOA and not UOA for silicon in motorcycle oil. Should I tell you why?
Oh yes wise one would you?
and i have, it's the same or close,whats your next argument going to be? and i said a additive that could hurt a engine.
last time i check my oil level im my quad i dont remember any oil foam blasting out at me,hmmmm
and guess what not only a HDEO works one can use M1 15w50 also thats a good choice with no issues at all
ryansride2017:
Please check out NYROC, its the best source on net for everything Suzuki Kingquad. You will find the information concerning oil and many other things there that you are looking for.
Please check out NYROC, its the best source on net for everything Suzuki Kingquad. You will find the information concerning oil and many other things there that you are looking for.
Here is an interesting link with what seems like some valid testing on auto vs. motorcycle oils. I may have to rethink what I believe.
http://www.ducatimeccanica.com/oil.html
http://www.ducatimeccanica.com/oil.html
Originally Posted By: andrewg
Here is an interesting link with what seems like some valid testing on auto vs. motorcycle oils. I may have to rethink what I believe.
http://www.ducatimeccanica.com/oil.html
That article is ancient....SG PCMO?
You can look in the UOA section and see how some dino oils still shear today in a certain engine, and the syns stay in grade for the most part. I don't know anyone that uses dino bike oil....dino HDEO or diesel sure, but most bike oils are syns these days.
I'd like to see a modern test like that in a few different bikes, where 10w40/0w40 syn PCMO was up against 10w40/0w40 bike oils and see if there really was a difference in shearing, exteded OCI, and wear metals.
Here is an interesting link with what seems like some valid testing on auto vs. motorcycle oils. I may have to rethink what I believe.
http://www.ducatimeccanica.com/oil.html
That article is ancient....SG PCMO?
You can look in the UOA section and see how some dino oils still shear today in a certain engine, and the syns stay in grade for the most part. I don't know anyone that uses dino bike oil....dino HDEO or diesel sure, but most bike oils are syns these days.
I'd like to see a modern test like that in a few different bikes, where 10w40/0w40 syn PCMO was up against 10w40/0w40 bike oils and see if there really was a difference in shearing, exteded OCI, and wear metals.
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