Got a Deere

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
May 11, 2007
Messages
1,267
Location
Tennessee
Well, after all the [censored] we've had with the 04 Craftsman since day one until a week ago (sold), we got 09 or 10 John Deere LA105. 19.5HP Briggs and a much better set up than the craftsman. Mows excellent.

I just dropped out the factory fill at 6.2 hours, put some RTS 5W-40 T6 in it. I couldn't get the filter off, but I'm gonna change it again at 10 hours and do a filter change then.

I don't know who preps these things, but don't they know to lube the oil filter gasket and not tighten them with the torque that a diesel makes? I'm gonna have to slam a screwdriver through it to get it off. Really burns me up.

But, it mows great, has like a 2 gallon gas tank (not sure, haven't read book), and really just sips on it. Plenty of power. I noticed it says on the engine or mower that these engines were designed specifically for John Deere. Wonder what that means? Sticking an oil filter on it? Or any tougher internal parts?

EDIT: WOW Just noticed the prices of some of these filters $5-$10!? Model: AM125424 is a John Deere brand filter for my LA105, as far as I can research. I'll look on filter later. Where do you guys get your filters, and what do you pay? If I can get them for $2-$3 for quality filters somewhere you know of... lemme know, please.
 
I believe a Wix 51056 cross references, but you are still in the same price range.
21.gif
 
AM125424 crosses to Purolator L10241.

That should get you down into the $3-$4 range.

(Advance shows them at $3.49 each)
 
They are a decently designed machine for the price. They are the way to go in the under $2K crowd. Deere has always been tops in regard to operator comfort, layout, etc. The mower deck hardware is decent. Good Tufftorq trans. Simple mechanical PTO engagement. I don't get the JD/Briggs thing. JD probably specs out different engine shrouding and mounting hardware and lets Briggs do the rest. More of a marketing tool than anything. You should be able to get a pair of channel locks on that thimble of an oil filter. The little ones don't crush like the big ones.

la105_143106_large.jpg


Joel
 
Last edited:
I had to use Channelocks on mine for the first OCI. Was the dinky B&S filter. I am now using MotorCraft FL400s. I think the filter is put on before the engine is painted/sealed and oil put in, that's why they are tight, same with most car engines.

Dave
 
Thanks for the info guys. I'll check into the Purolator version. Will there be any problems I'd run into running a car filter on a lawnmower? Like amount of flow or anything? I wouldn't want it running in bypass all the time.
 
Originally Posted By: Jaymus
Thanks for the info guys. I'll check into the Purolator version. Will there be any problems I'd run into running a car filter on a lawnmower? Like amount of flow or anything? I wouldn't want it running in bypass all the time.


The MotorCraft FL400 has a bypass of at least 12 psi. The OEM Briggs has a bypass setting of 8 psi. Not sure of the Puro, probably about the same as the MC...

Dave
 
Originally Posted By: Jaymus
Thanks for the info guys. I'll check into the Purolator version. Will there be any problems I'd run into running a car filter on a lawnmower? Like amount of flow or anything? I wouldn't want it running in bypass all the time.


I've run both the Puro Classic and the much missed Advance Auto Parts Total Grip version on both of my Deere lawn tractors, without any issues.

I believe that I'm using the $3.49 Puro Classic on both right now. I change oil once a year on the one, and twice a year on the other (it gets used more).

Another option would be the NAPA Pro Select filter. It is lower $ filter that is built by Wix to NAPA's specs. I've used those as well.
 
A proper size pipe wrench is one of the best things for removing a stubborn oil filter. Try it. You'll be impressed.
 
Oops! Correction on my post above. This is a gear drive LT. One of the few aside from Craftsman riders that you can still get (actual real gear drive trans). I'm not positive Tufftorq still makes gear drives. I know they used to, since our early 1990's model JD GT262 had a TT 5spd gear drive trans.

Joel
 
Congrats on the new JD. They're great tractors. Our 210 has been in the family since new in 83. Not one problem with it in the 27 years of ownership. This past winter I rebuild the K241 that's bored .010 over with a 3.250 crank from a K341, an 18 hp OHV cam (reallllly hard to find!), shaved the head .100" and clearanced the valves and installed a larger carb off a K341. Hopefully with this new motor we can get another 27 years out of her!! Hopefully your new investment will provide you with decades of good quality service.
 
Originally Posted By: sparkplug
Congrats on the new JD. They're great tractors. Our 210 has been in the family since new in 83. Not one problem with it in the 27 years of ownership. This past winter I rebuild the K241 that's bored .010 over with a 3.250 crank from a K341, an 18 hp OHV cam (reallllly hard to find!), shaved the head .100" and clearanced the valves and installed a larger carb off a K341. Hopefully with this new motor we can get another 27 years out of her!! Hopefully your new investment will provide you with decades of good quality service.


Wow !! does it have a lot more power than before after all of that work?
 
My 6 year old Craftsman is a gear drive mower and other than normal wear parts, I have never had any problems with it other than some bad gasoline I bought somewhere at one time.

But since I am able to buy non-ethanol fuel for it, it has performed perfectly for the past 2 years.

The fuel consumption on the 20hp Kohler engine has dropped with the switch back to non-ethanol gasoline as well.
 
Originally Posted By: lexus114


Wow !! does it have a lot more power than before after all of that work?


Oh yes she does. I estimate I gained around 6-7 hp and a bunch more torque. It never bogs down anymore!
 
my 1967 lt110 just keeps going even though it has been relegated to to helping move the boat and light mowing at the cottage.Would have it here but I don't even want to look at how much a bagger would be for it. So the little Honda ht-r 3009 rider that I got off my neighbor when he quit mowing his lawn 15 years ago does the job here.
 
Originally Posted By: wapacz
my 1967 lt110 just keeps going even though it has been relegated to to helping move the boat and light mowing at the cottage.


Our old 1970 model year JD 110 made quick work of towing boats in/out of the barn and yard. This was a belt drive machine with a Peerless 4spd transaxle. 1st gear was a creeper. The only things that sucked about the 110's was the variator (ground speed control) option. You could further adjust your travel speed with the side mounted hand lever. Problem was, as with any variator, triple sheaved pulley, that center sheave will inevitably lock up on you. It's always best on the old 110's to leave that variator lever set to max and never touch it.

Joel
 
Originally Posted By: mrsilv04
AM125424 crosses to Purolator L10241.

That should get you down into the $3-$4 range.

(Advance shows them at $3.49 each)


I just wanted to update. I went out and bought this filter. It works perfectly! That's $6-$7 less on a filter that is probably built BETTER than the factory Deere filters. This Purolator is about 1-2 inches longer, too! So, that is that much more oil I get to have running through the engine.. plus I am a fan of Purolator products. Not fanboy, but I do like the tests I see on them.

Just wanted to say thanks for the cross referencing to all, but I chose Purolator out of all the options. Coulda got a Fram ;-)
 
Originally Posted By: Jaymus
. I noticed it says on the engine or mower that these engines were designed specifically for John Deere. Wonder what that means? Sticking an oil filter on it? Or any tougher internal parts?


At work, I had a John Deere semi-commercial front mower (F731?) with a John Deere "engineered" Kawasaki engine. When the coolant pump failed at early hours, the mechanic asked if I also wanted him to replace the plastic camshaft while the engine was opened up, since it would fail soon also (at my cost).

The plastic camshaft was John Deere's "designed specifically" idea to quiet the engine down. You can't always assume the design change is to make it tougher. I blame the bean counters sitting in the JD offices.

And, regarding your filter choice, Puralator is probably fine, but I doubt you have any evidence it is better than the Deere offering. It's simply speculation. We really don't know.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top