Oil for a Toro 6.5 HP mower?

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Originally Posted By: lexus114
Originally Posted By: 1999nick
According to B&S, consumption is an issue only with multigrade dino oil, not synthetic, and only above 80 degrees. The B&S recommendation of 5W30 synthetic as their first choice does not say anything about using their own oil.


Something about this recommendation just doesnt sit too well with me. Just as the detergent straight 30 weight. They must have done some pretty extensive testing their,but 5W-30 Synthetic is a whole lot different from straight 30 weight. As I mentioned above,my Toro sounds best on the straight 30.


To me, 30W is old school. I haven't bought a quart of 30W in over 40 years. (I am almost 74 years old) I have used synthetic oil since it came out back in the 1970's.

I used M1 5W30 for the first 8 years of my present lawnmower's life. It has never used so much as a sixteenth of an inch of oil in a yearly, 55 to 65 hour, OCI. A couple of years ago, I ran out of my old stash of 5W30 M1 in the SL formulation, and I change over to M1 10W30 High Mileage oil. Still no oil usage in my usual yearly OCI.

I gotta admit, tho, that my mower is equipped with the consumer grade Honda 160 GCV OHC engine. It has always started and ran perfectly. It gets yearly oil changes and air filter changes. I've changed the spark plug once. I've never even seen the carburetor. It's on its second hour meter. They seem to last a little over 5 years before the unreplaceable sealed in battery gives out.

Mower is now 10 years old, with 540+ hours on it. I just replaced the front drive wheels for the second time. They seem to wear absolutely smooth and lose traction in about 5 years. I kinda wish this Honda engine would wear out so I could justify getting myself one more new mower before I pass on. From what I hear, a nice rear wheel drive mower would make it a lot easier on me during these hot 95 to 100 degree days.
 
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I'm currently using HDEO 10w30 and 15w40 in all my air cooled mowers. It's cheaper and I think it protects better for longer then any PCMO including the synthetics.
 
Originally Posted By: 1999nick
Originally Posted By: lexus114
Originally Posted By: 1999nick
According to B&S, consumption is an issue only with multigrade dino oil, not synthetic, and only above 80 degrees. The B&S recommendation of 5W30 synthetic as their first choice does not say anything about using their own oil.


Something about this recommendation just doesnt sit too well with me. Just as the detergent straight 30 weight. They must have done some pretty extensive testing their,but 5W-30 Synthetic is a whole lot different from straight 30 weight. As I mentioned above,my Toro sounds best on the straight 30.


To me, 30W is old school. I haven't bought a quart of 30W in over 40 years. (I am almost 74 years old) I have used synthetic oil since it came out back in the 1970's.

I used M1 5W30 for the first 8 years of my present lawnmower's life. It has never used so much as a sixteenth of an inch of oil in a yearly, 55 to 65 hour, OCI. A couple of years ago, I ran out of my old stash of 5W30 M1 in the SL formulation, and I change over to M1 10W30 High Mileage oil. Still no oil usage in my usual yearly OCI.

I gotta admit, tho, that my mower is equipped with the consumer grade Honda 160 GCV OHC engine. It has always started and ran perfectly. It gets yearly oil changes and air filter changes. I've changed the spark plug once. I've never even seen the carburetor. It's on its second hour meter. They seem to last a little over 5 years before the unreplaceable sealed in battery gives out.

Mower is now 10 years old, with 540+ hours on it. I just replaced the front drive wheels for the second time. They seem to wear absolutely smooth and lose traction in about 5 years. I kinda wish this Honda engine would wear out so I could justify getting myself one more new mower before I pass on. From what I hear, a nice rear wheel drive mower would make it a lot easier on me during these hot 95 to 100 degree days.


I believe the OHV engines do better with the multi viscosity oil. My Chonda pressure washer does just fine on GC,and so does my Cub Cadet.
 
In my opinion, although I have been a user of M1 almost exclusively for over 40 years, I have come to believe that small OPE engines really don't care what kind of oil they have in them, just so long as it's oil and is kept reasonably full.
 
Originally Posted By: lexus114
I cant say the same when I had a knock on the GC in my Toro.


You seem to have a lot of problems using 0W30 Castrol. You have mentioned problems with your Lexus and now your Toro.

I have used M1 exclusively for the past 40 years, but I have read so much good stuff about the German Castrol that I was thinking about giving it a try. Now, I don't know. I don't want an oil that has to be fully warmed up before I can climb a hill.
 
I've never cared what I put in my 6.5 Toro walk-behind. I dump whatever I have available in it, change it when "I feel like it", and never had any problems getting it to start on the first pull.
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BTW, you can find an owner's manual here:

https://homeownersolutions.toro.com/portal/server.pt/community/product_center/225
 
Originally Posted By: 1999nick
Originally Posted By: lexus114
I cant say the same when I had a knock on the GC in my Toro.


You seem to have a lot of problems using 0W30 Castrol. You have mentioned problems with your Lexus and now your Toro.

I have used M1 exclusively for the past 40 years, but I have read so much good stuff about the German Castrol that I was thinking about giving it a try. Now, I don't know. I don't want an oil that has to be fully warmed up before I can climb a hill.


Nick I know it sounds retarded and all,but thats how it was. Other than the cold engine performance,it was fine. very smooth etc. And it does work very well in my Pressure washer & Lawn tractor. I still have about 10 qts.of it.
 
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