need some help...

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I had my '08 GSX-R1000 properly winterized for the season, but did not keep the battery on a tender. After changing the oil/filter I tried to crank it and nothing... lights came on, fuel pump primed, but engine did not turn. I figured the 12v battery was weak and didn't want to wait to charge it, so I tried jump starting it with a car running . Nothing happened , but a single "click" form under the seat. Long story short, the starter relay is good, but the starter is a toast. I opened it and the contact is burnt. I ordered a new starter, and need some opinions here. Someone suggested I Spin the crank first to make sure my engine is not hydrolocked by excess fuel or oil in one or more of the cilinders. I was told I should be able to turn the engine by applying moderate amount of clockwise force to the crank bolt on the right side of the crankcase, even with the spark plugs in place. Is this right? I tried this and the engine would not turn! So is my engine hydrolocked causing my starter motor to burn? Should one be able to turn it that easily? Or did I burn the starter by trying to jump start the bike off a running car? I would hate to have to pull the spark plugs out and try to turn it that way.
Sorry for the long post, and thanks for any input.
 
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Well it sounds like the engine is locked. I would pull the plugs and try and spin it over. This should force whatever is in the cylinders out. It should turn fairly easily. You should feel resistance with the plugs in, but it should still turn.

I wonder if whom ever did your winterizing, used a bit too much fogging oil.
 
If you jump a bike with a car, do it with the car off. You can test if the engine will turn over, by putting it in 5th or 6th gear and spinning the rear wheel. Good luck.
 
Originally Posted By: vlado11
I was told I should be able to turn the engine by applying moderate amount of clockwise force to the crank bolt on the right side of the crankcase, even with the spark plugs in place. Is this right?


Careful with that. Most engines rotate counterclockwise when running. That being said, if you're rotating from the right side crankcase, then you would have clockwise rotation. To check, do as suggested above. I would pull all plugs, place the tranny in 5th or 6th gear, and gently turn the rear wheel in a forward direction. See which way the crank turns.
 
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Make sure those cylinders are clear. I had a friend bend his connecting rods on an older Concours by trying to crank a cylinder full of fuel.
 
Originally Posted By: FLHRGator
Make sure those cylinders are clear. I had a friend bend his connecting rods on an older Concours by trying to crank a cylinder full of fuel.


That's why all spark plugs should be removed first.
 
Originally Posted By: FLHRGator
Make sure those cylinders are clear. I had a friend bend his connecting rods on an older Concours by trying to crank a cylinder full of fuel.


Me too, on same bike. Crumby vacuum fuel valve.....
 
Originally Posted By: boraticus
You will get less resistance if you use a lower gear. I'd use second.


nope, higher gears mean the tire spins more for each spin of the crank, so the mechanical advantage will be best.

sorry about the starter burning up.
frown.gif
 
UPDATE!!...
Pulled the plugs out today and guess what, oil in cilinders! Plug no.1 was wet, 2,3 were not, but when I turned the engine oil splashed up out of 2nd and 3rd hole. How did it get there? When I winterized the bike I did NOT pull the plugs and did not put oil in the holes as suggested in the owners manual. But I did fill the crank case with oil all the way up to the filler hole. I did this last time also (fall of '08) and had no problems starting the bike the next season, however it did smoke like crazy for 5-10 min the firs time it ran. Will never fill the crank case with oil like that again, I don't care what the owners manual says! Thank you guys for convincing me to pull the plugs out before installing the new starter. I put new spark plugs in place and it wasn't as complicated as I thought it would be. Thank you all!
 
Did you start the engine in the Fall after overfilling the crankcase? That would cause oil seepage past the rings due to too much crankcase pressure. Likewise over-oiling through the valve train would also cause oil to leak past the valve guides into the combustion chamber. If you didn't start the engine and didn't pour oil into the cylinders, then I have no idea how oil could flood the combustion chambers and cause hydro-locking.
 
Why "fill the crank case with oil up to the filler hole" to begin with?

I've never heard of that in any application on any vehicle in any climate or location.

I won't end with "Cheers!", just GOOD LUCK!
 
I never started the engine. Filled it with oil, and let it sit over the winter. Drained all oil out last week, replaced filter, poored 3.8qts back which is normal capacity. The owners manual suggests that the crancase be filled with oil all the way up to the filler hole when bike is in storage. Maybe because of the slipper clutch? Thats the only other thing that this bike has that my previous ones didn't.
 
I agree, I would never full the crankcase with oil for storage. That sounds like a procedure to do if the bike will be sent through deep space, to Mars or something. Where talking IN here.
 
Originally Posted By: Norm Olt
Why "fill the crank case with oil up to the filler hole" to begin with?


This is a common practice for storage. The reason is to keep the gear shafts submerged in oil to prevent rust. A side effect is that cyls can get over oiled and on some style of motor hydro-lock.

2 cents worth
 
Originally Posted By: eljefino
Originally Posted By: boraticus
You will get less resistance if you use a lower gear. I'd use second.


nope, higher gears mean the tire spins more for each spin of the crank, so the mechanical advantage will be best.

sorry about the starter burning up.
frown.gif



Yeah... My mistake. I had that backward. I was thinking bump starting.
 
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