Oil for a 3000gt vr4

[PTrain]

Hey guys! I'm going to start tracking my car this summer and I was hoping to get an oil recommendation from you.

I live in delaware so the weather is now around 70 during the day and about 50 at night. I'd expect that by the next time I change my oil it will be in early summer so temperatures will be around 80 degrees.

I change my oil every 3000 miles with an oil change coming up right now.

I normally drive on the highway.

The owners manual suggests using 20w40 or 20w50 for severe driving. And the certification it lists is API classification SG or SG/CD

Thanks for your help
Pete

 

[RPMster]

A friend of mine had an early 90's VR4 twin turbo. He bought it used around '97/'98, low miles, like new condition. This guy would fill it with cheapest dino oils he could find. He even used some no-name garbage oil a couple times - you know, that mysterious stuff you see on the shelf in the dim back aisles of discount food stores? Yeah, it was sad.

It defied logic to me how someone would treat such a sweet car like that. Real cheap guy, that's for sure! I tried talking some sense into him many times, but he just wouldn't hear it! However he did use OEM oil filters (go figure), and he did his own oil changes around every 3,000 to 4,000 miles or so. I believe he used both 10W-40 and 20W-50 weight oils. I ran into him around '02/'03, and he still had the car. He was at 120,XXXsomething miles. Now get this - the car still ran like new, with the same sorry*** oil change routine as always! Blew my mind! Back in the day, he had his fair share of road races in that thing too! Dusted many 5.0 Mustangs and Camaros and the like.

Now, I'm not condoning this type of oil changing philosophy at all, but it goes to show that was one tough Mitsu engine!

 

[d00df00d]

to BITOG!

With 3,000 mile OCIs on a car that specs API SG, I think it'd be a challenge to find an oil that doesn't meet your needs! Just a few quick questions to narrow it down a bit:

1. Are you looking for top-notch stuff or good bang-for-the-buck?
2. Would you be willing to order online or do you want something available in stores?
3. Any sense of what your oil temps and pressures are like over the course of a track day?
4. Any modifications to the car?

 

[mechtech2]

You are going to want an oil that has a lower first number for winter starting.
0-40 or 5-40 full synth oils are readily available.
Even 15-40 dino is better than 20-40.

 

[PTrain]

Thanks for the quick replys guys.

RPMster, that's pretty amazing that your buddy has been able to do that to his vr4 for so long! The general consensus among other 3000 and stelth owners is that the 6G72 engine they used in these cars is pretty stout. One of the biggest problems/concerns with these engines is their lifter tick. When I start mine up on a cold day it sounds like a diesel.

For the questions:
1. I'd like the best bang for the buck stuff. But if you can think of a top quality brand off hand I'd like to have that info for later on down the road if I feel I need it.

2. I wouldn't be adverse to ordering online. I can wait a week to get the oil in.

3. Unfortunately the stock oil pressure gauge does not have any number readings and it's notoriously inaccurate anyway. And in addition I don't have an oil temp gauge either. So I can't give you any help there.

4. The biggest modifications are exhaust, a hot wired fuel pump, and a manual boost controller.

Oh, and I've been using synthetic in the car for a couple years now. I've herd a rumor that once you go synthetic you can't go back to regular dino, but this will be the place that knows for sure!

 

[aquariuscsm]

I`d use a good racing oil like Valvoline VR1 20W50 and change it regularly and DO NOT do any extended oci`s. It`s cheap,can be bought at any auto parts store,and costs the exact same as a regular dino. I`ve had two 3000GT`s (both SL`s). It`ll definitely love the thicker dino oil.

 

[RPMster]

You could use any "XW"-40 or "XW"-50 dino for day-to-day street driving, and right before you hit the track dump it and fill with Valvoline VR1 synthetic or a similar performance oil. The general consensus seems to be that cars built in the last couple decades can switch back and forth between syn/dino with no problems at all.

 

[addyguy]

I'd use Rotella 'T6' 5W-40 - inexpensive, and very stout.

As for the rumour you've heard, it is NOT TRUE!

Have fun!

 

[Falcon_LS]

I realise you're looking for best bang for the buck, but from experience I would highly recommend Mobil 1 0W-40 in Mitsubishi 6G72 engines, regardless of whether it is a 12-valve or a 24-valve version.

If you want, you can also add a 300 ml bottle of MOS2 Engine Treatment to this oil, and Bob is your uncle - the engine will be as smooth as butter (especially in the higher RPM range) and as quiet as a mouse at idle.

 

[aquariuscsm]

Oh,and by the way,I`m JEALOUS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I want a VR4 soooo bad!!!!!!!!!

 

[hpichris]

Rotella T6 hands down.

 

[aquariuscsm]

Originally Posted By: PTrain
The general consensus among other 3000 and stelth owners is that the 6G72 engine they used in these cars is pretty stout. One of the biggest problems/concerns with these engines is their lifter tick. When I start mine up on a cold day it sounds like a diesel.


If you use a 20W50 dino and change it often,this engine will outlive the entire rest of the car. These engines don`t "like" synthetic oils for some reason. I had a few GT/Stealth friends and including myself,got that bad diesel sounding valvetrain noise with synths. Go back to dino oil and you`ll see what I mean. Everyone I knew who had these cars used GTX 20W50 and last time I ran into them they had in the 200,000-300,000 mile range and still running strong,but I prefer Valvoline and Pennzoil.

 

[d00df00d]

Originally Posted By: PTrain
1. I'd like the best bang for the buck stuff. But if you can think of a top quality brand off hand I'd like to have that info for later on down the road if I feel I need it.

Bang-for-the-buck: Valvoline VR1 Racing 20w-50
Top shelf: Motul 300V 5w-40, 10w-40, or 15w-50

This is assuming 3,000 mile OCIs. If you're interested in extending that, you might want to look into Mobil 1, Rotella T6, RLI, Red Line, Amsoil, etc.


Originally Posted By: PTrain
2. I wouldn't be adverse to ordering online. I can wait a week to get the oil in.

Good. Flexibility is a big advantage.

Originally Posted By: PTrain
3. Unfortunately the stock oil pressure gauge does not have any number readings and it's notoriously inaccurate anyway. And in addition I don't have an oil temp gauge either. So I can't give you any help there.

I'd look into getting those gauges if you possibly can. They can help you make sure you're running the perfect viscosity for your car and usage.


Originally Posted By: PTrain
4. The biggest modifications are exhaust, a hot wired fuel pump, and a manual boost controller.

If you're not making a lot more power than stock, and using good modern oils, you can probably err on the low side when it comes to viscosity. That goes double if you're using a good synthetic. Oil has come a long way since your owner's manual was printed.

Originally Posted By: PTrain
I've herd a rumor that once you go synthetic you can't go back to regular dino, but this will be the place that knows for sure!

Hogwash.

 

[Falcon_LS]

Originally Posted By: PTrain
One of the biggest problems/concerns with these engines is their lifter tick. When I start mine up on a cold day it sounds like a diesel.


Allow the engine to reach operating temperature, say a half hour highway drive. Idle the engine in park or neutral, and over a time frame of exactly 15 seconds, slowly rev up to 3,000 rpm and release the throttle. Then allow the engine to idle for another 15 seconds to complete one cycle. May take up to 7-10 times before the lifters quieten down. If it doesn't go away, the lifters are not your problem.

 

[PTrain]

Cool. Thanks for all the advice guys!

 

[addyguy]

Hey - let us know what you choose!