M1 0W-40 FOR TOYOTA SLUDGER 3VZE

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JAYCEE

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East Texas
92 Toyota pick-up 4x4. 193k mi. I'm 700mi out from the end of my ARX 2nd rinse with MC 10W-30. Oil burner. PCV just replaced so this may reduce consumption some. I may add LC20 to this for 500 miles or so, or I may wait until after the change to try LC20.

I picked up a case of M1 0W-40 to try in this sludge maker. I want to see what this flavor knocks loose. ARX has done a heckuva job on this engine. I will run full synthetic from here on out.

After the 0-40, what would be the best M1 for this sludger? I mostly avoid short trips, but I do get a few in. No hot-rodding, red-lining, towing, or hauling. Mild winters, extra-hot summers.

10-30 non-EP and change more often? 15-50? 0-40?
 
Please explain "oil burner".
How is the oil pressure ?
And the oil pick up screen ??
I think I would use a "heavier" oil(30 rather than 20) in a high mileage engine..
What is "LC" ??
 
That engine is not a sludgemaker. It would be the way that engine was maintained that would give it deposits. Extending intervals with that motor using conventional oil would increase the likelyhood of deposit formation. This motor pools oil in the heads so the oil does have a tendency to cook. Mobil 1 does perform very well in these motors. The downfall is that leaks may develope with motors that have not been maintained properly using M1.

I run M1 10w30 with a quart of 15w50 in the sump of my 4-Runner. This last interval of m1 tsuv 5w40 I didn't care for so I will be sticking with the 10w30.

If you did pcv hopefully you changed valve cover gaskets at same time.

Daily Drives:
-2003 Toyota Tacoma PreRunner,2.7 liter, 4 cylinder, Mobil1 5w30 ODO 27300
-1995 Toyota 4-Runner,3.0 liter,6 cylinder, Mobil1 5w40 tsuv ODO 104800
http://community.webshots.com/user/amkeer
 
Seeing how you live in east Texas I would choose a thicker oil from Mobil-1 as al of their oils are light for their stated viscosity. I would start at 0W40 and if unhappy with that I would try their 5W40 then their 15W50. I am preety sure though that you will probably like either the 0W40 or the 5W40!! 15W50 can more then likely be run year round in your location but unless you do mostly HWY driveing your short trip fuel econnomy is going to suck with 15W50. This would be even more amplified dureing the winter.
 
Wow! All this time I thought I was driving a sludger. I'm still going to switch to M1 because of the oil cooking on the heads.

JB: 10w-40 and 5w-40 have been discontinued. I'm not sure I'd use the diesel 5-40 unless it's SM rated. If 0-40 doesn't work I'll blend 15-50 with 10-30 like Amkeer.

Can I expect any crazy noises with 0-40 in this engine?
 
Jaycee, your truck predates the SM rating by so many years, why not use it. It's bound to be fine. Probably just doesn't meet the same enviro or econo standards.....

Since you know now it's not a sludger engine, why not run Rotella T Synth 5W40?
 
I wouldn't waste money on synthetics. Since you're in East Texas, I think you should run Rotella, Delo, or Delvac 15w40 year-round. You get the cleaning & anti-sludging benefits of M1 for about half the price

I'd use whatever good oil filter was on sale.
 
Another vote for 5w-40 Rotella T synth. A high quality Grp III oil with an excellent additive pack would be ideal in that engine and climate.

You can pick up a 4 quart jug at most Walmarts for about 13$.

The newer SM formulas are in question because the level of some additives have actually been reduced to help extend the life of the newer emissions equipment. I would not hesitate to run API SL oils, they typically have a beefier additive package (Rotella T is one of these).

If money is no object, Mobil1 5w-40 Truck&SUV (or now Mobil1 Turbodiesel) would be my next choice.

The 0w-40 you mentioned typically shears down to a 30 weight in extended use, and there is absolutely no need for a 0w rated oil in that climate.. So IMO I would look past 0w-40 and consider the 15w-50 (if the engine is burning lots of oil), or perhaps the 10w-30, and definately consider Mobil1's 5w-40 (not sure what they're calling it right now)...

You can rest assured the engine is getting optimal protection with any of those oils..
 
I own a 91 Toyota pick-up 4x4 I bought new. Mobil 0w 40 Mobil does well in it. It sheers down to about 0w 30 for most of its life. Mobil 5w 40 T&S sucks to much power out of the slightly tired 150 HP 3.0L V6 IMO as do most 15w 40s.

Oil consumption is better with the HDEOs but the power trade off does not seem like it is worth it to me.

My other favorite oil for this motor is Chevron/Havoline 10w 30 runs real quiet. This V6 motor does pool oil on top of heads after shut down and cooks it a little. The oil also can get real hot in slow driving offroad conditions. So best to do 3500 - 4500 mile OCI in it IMHO.

Glade to see you replace PCV valve they are often over looked on these truck because they are not easy to replace.
 
quote:
Originally posted by Hirev:
...

Glade to see you replace PCV valve they are often over looked on these truck because they are not easy to replace.
Click to expand...
The dealership misquoted the estimate on this. P&L total was about $70. I'm glad they stood by their quote on the PCV.

Looks like Rotella 5-40 is the winner! I'll definately go with a grp III.

My comment about SM was because M1 now specifies that 5-40 is for diesels only. I don't know if it is "S" rated anymore. 5-40 T&S has been discontinued.

I may put this M1 0-40 in a 95 Ford L6 that was severly neglected by a previous owner. It may need it more than the Toyota.
 
None of the Trucks ever had any of the sludge prone engines in them. So if their is sludge init it is due to poor maintence!!! THe V6's do consume more oil as thier milage creeps up but that was normal for that engine design. Those little V6's often had 3.90:1 or 4.10:1 rear ends so they were singing along at HWY speeds. You really can not compare the old Toyota V6 blocks with their I4 or Modern V6 and V8 designs.

OW40 or 5W40 or 15W50 will work fine!
 
The M1 0w40 will be fine, but if the engine is still tight, try a syn 10w30. No sense churning thick oil if it's not needed.
 
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