Getting geared up for clutch replacement on my 2001 civic Ex with 240,000 miles. I would like to do this myself. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Should the flywheel be turned or replaced? Anything else that should be done while I'm in there? I have a shop manual to follow but this will be my first clutch on this vehicle. Thanks
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2001 Honda Civic Clutch Replacement
- Thread starter bruckus
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Is this your first clutch job? If so, my advice is to get someone (competent mechanic) to do the job for you.
Q.
Q.
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Sorry, I missed that you had the manual.
If it were my car I would definately buy a new flywheel considering all the miles you have.
If it were my car I would definately buy a new flywheel considering all the miles you have.
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it would be best to get the flywheel turned. What kind of clutch are you putting in?
Definitely have the flywheel machined and it May need to be replaced based on that mileage. You should never replace a clutch without at least turning the flywheel. And make sure you replace the whole kit (Clutch disc, pressure plate, throwout bearing, and pilot bearing).
I have an Exedy Pro-kit. Just a stock commuter car not a racer. It sounds like on these cars its a little harder removing the transmission than on the pre 01 models. The original clutch is still ok but I can tell the pedals getting high. I think I'll swap it out before i'm pushing it from the stop light like my old VW rabbit.
My suggestions.
Clean out the master & slave cylinder before putting fresh fluid in.
Check any rubber clutch fluid lines for cracking, seeping etc. Replace if you find anything.
Don't forget to clean and relube the pivot ball, replace it if it has grooves worn into it.
Same for the clutch fork, if it has grooves worn in it where it pivots on the pivot ball just replace it.
Turn the flywheel
As stated above, replace the;
Pressure plate
Friction disc
throwout bearing
pilot bearing
While you have the trans out might as well drain and refill it with fresh fluid
Check all the motor mounts, it'll be much easier to replace them with the trans out if any need replaced.
Basically look over everything that is hard to get to with the trans in there. If anything looks bad or like it's going bad might as well replace it while it's easy to do.
Check the rubber shift linkage bushings for and drying out or cracking.
If you have to pull and front subframe bolts out mark the frame before you take them loose. I've had to align a ton of cars that had the front subframe put back in a little off causing the alignment to be out of spec.
Clean out the master & slave cylinder before putting fresh fluid in.
Check any rubber clutch fluid lines for cracking, seeping etc. Replace if you find anything.
Don't forget to clean and relube the pivot ball, replace it if it has grooves worn into it.
Same for the clutch fork, if it has grooves worn in it where it pivots on the pivot ball just replace it.
Turn the flywheel
As stated above, replace the;
Pressure plate
Friction disc
throwout bearing
pilot bearing
While you have the trans out might as well drain and refill it with fresh fluid
Check all the motor mounts, it'll be much easier to replace them with the trans out if any need replaced.
Basically look over everything that is hard to get to with the trans in there. If anything looks bad or like it's going bad might as well replace it while it's easy to do.
Check the rubber shift linkage bushings for and drying out or cracking.
If you have to pull and front subframe bolts out mark the frame before you take them loose. I've had to align a ton of cars that had the front subframe put back in a little off causing the alignment to be out of spec.
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The manual states that the Front subframe is to be removed. That was my major concern with the job. It says to draw alignment marks before removal. Another concern is supporting the motor while on the hoist. Honda also does not recommend resurfacing the flywheel just replacing but I am sure it can be done.
Take parts off and lay them out in order.
It makes it simple to replace things - go backwards.
Clean, lube, dress, or seal, everything you touch!
It will assemble better and work better.
Your flywheel may need a cut, but often a scuffing/sanding suffices. Even Scotchbrite on a power disc is viable.
Looks for cracks, uneven heat discoloration, warping, to make your flywheel decisions.
Be prepared with room to work. Lots of room and nice places to set things down.
It makes it simple to replace things - go backwards.
Clean, lube, dress, or seal, everything you touch!
It will assemble better and work better.
Your flywheel may need a cut, but often a scuffing/sanding suffices. Even Scotchbrite on a power disc is viable.
Looks for cracks, uneven heat discoloration, warping, to make your flywheel decisions.
Be prepared with room to work. Lots of room and nice places to set things down.
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bruckus,
which Civic manual do you have ?
which Civic manual do you have ?
I have found that when replacing the clutch, it is worth it to replace they hydraulics.
I say this because it seems halfway into the life of the new clutch, a hydraulic part fails, and the whole system has to come apart in the case of some slave cylinder designs.
I say this because it seems halfway into the life of the new clutch, a hydraulic part fails, and the whole system has to come apart in the case of some slave cylinder designs.
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