My brother has a mercury mystique 99 model. It is the 4 cylinder model and has had a check engine light on for a while and when getting it read, it come up P0341, so he changed the camshaft position sensor and the light is back on with the same code. Anyone know what is going on here.
P0341, camshaft position sensor #1 bank
- Thread starter jstutz
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A code P0341 may mean that one or more of the following has happened:
* Cam sensor wiring routed too close to spark plug wiring (causing interference)
* Poor wiring connection at cam sensor
* Poor wiring connection at PCM
* Bad cam sensor
* Damaged reluctor wheel
Often relacing the sensor fixes this code, but not necessarily. Therefore it's important to check the following:
* Check that the wiring isn't routed too close to any secondary ignition components (coil, spark plug wires, etc.)
* Visually inspect the wiring at the sensor for any burn marks, discoloration indicative of melting or chafing
* Visually inspect the cam sensor for damage
* Visually inspect the reluctor wheel through the cam sensor port (if possible) for any missing teeth or any damage
* If reluctor isn't visible from outside the engine, visual test can only be done by removing cam shaft or intake manifold (depending on engine design)
* If all checks out okay, then replace the sensor.
There is one other thing to check, and that is the alt. to make sure you don't have a diode going bad.
* Cam sensor wiring routed too close to spark plug wiring (causing interference)
* Poor wiring connection at cam sensor
* Poor wiring connection at PCM
* Bad cam sensor
* Damaged reluctor wheel
Often relacing the sensor fixes this code, but not necessarily. Therefore it's important to check the following:
* Check that the wiring isn't routed too close to any secondary ignition components (coil, spark plug wires, etc.)
* Visually inspect the wiring at the sensor for any burn marks, discoloration indicative of melting or chafing
* Visually inspect the cam sensor for damage
* Visually inspect the reluctor wheel through the cam sensor port (if possible) for any missing teeth or any damage
* If reluctor isn't visible from outside the engine, visual test can only be done by removing cam shaft or intake manifold (depending on engine design)
* If all checks out okay, then replace the sensor.
There is one other thing to check, and that is the alt. to make sure you don't have a diode going bad.
So you are saying that there is a possibility that the cam sensor that i replaced could be bad if all else checks out?. What is the reluctor wheel? What do you mean check the alternator to see if i have a diode bad. What diode, are you talking about the voltage regulator? Sorry for all the questions
It's always a possibility that new parts are DOA, or in this case DOI. Alternators use Diodes to convert the A/C current that is generated into DC current to be used in the car's electrical system.
Cam sensor codes can be for other reasons.
It's wiring or the connector may be faulty, or the teeth on the cam.
Also, cam timing that is off will throw this code.
A variable valve system that is not right can also throw this code.
You gotta keep diggin'!
It's wiring or the connector may be faulty, or the teeth on the cam.
Also, cam timing that is off will throw this code.
A variable valve system that is not right can also throw this code.
You gotta keep diggin'!
Well i just bought this car to run to work and back. Seems pretty solid. The light is still on and ill probably dig into it a little more this weekend. Anyone else know any major issues with this car or common problems i could prevent. Also where is the temp gauge supposed to be on this car. There is no numbers, just a C and an H. Right now the gauge is about 1/4, or half way to half.
Back to square one.
Sensor 1 bank?
The bank number is the side of the engine it is on.
The sensor number is if it is before or after the cat.
Sensor 1 bank?
The bank number is the side of the engine it is on.
The sensor number is if it is before or after the cat.
Sensor bank one?
NO.
There is a sensor # and a bank #.
You may have 2, 3,4, or even more O2 sensors.
One or more before the cat, and one or more behind the cat.
NO.
There is a sensor # and a bank #.
You may have 2, 3,4, or even more O2 sensors.
One or more before the cat, and one or more behind the cat
Originally Posted By: mechtech2
Sensor bank one?
NO.
There is a sensor # and a bank #.
You may have 2, 3,4, or even more O2 sensors.
One or more before the cat, and one or more behind the cat.
he is talking about a camshaft position sensor, not an EGO sensor or Cat Monitor.
Sensor bank one?
NO.
There is a sensor # and a bank #.
You may have 2, 3,4, or even more O2 sensors.
One or more before the cat, and one or more behind the cat
he is talking about a camshaft position sensor, not an EGO sensor or Cat Monitor.
Are the cams timed properly? If you can, take off the timing cover or the valve cover and turn the crank until the TDC marks lined up and the timing marks on the cams are lined up. If not, you got problems. Also, check the wiring between the ECM and the sensor.
TWO types of codes were brought up here.
A cam sensor AND O2 codes.
A cam sensor AND O2 codes.
Update
Replaced Plugs(motorcraft) and wires(duralast), unhooked battery for 30 mins. Its been about 600 miles now and the check engine light has not came back on.
I did notice when ac is on and engine is cold it will oscillate between about 600 rpms to 1300 rpms at a red light but if i shift into neutral it goes away. Once it warms up it dont seem to do it.
Replaced Plugs(motorcraft) and wires(duralast), unhooked battery for 30 mins. Its been about 600 miles now and the check engine light has not came back on.
I did notice when ac is on and engine is cold it will oscillate between about 600 rpms to 1300 rpms at a red light but if i shift into neutral it goes away. Once it warms up it dont seem to do it.
jstutz - the AC cycles. The idle should stabilize, but it can take a short while. The AC is on/off - an instant condition. But the idle takes a little while to stabilize. it is always going up and down with cycling AC systems.
jstutz - AC on Max is usually for venting cold air back into the interior. It has nothing to do with cycling and staying on.
It still cycles. [or it should]
It still cycles. [or it should]
If the battery was replaced, or power was somehow disrupted, idle parameters have to be relearned.
Also, warmer weather can cause some relearning, if the AC hasn't been used in a while.
Also, warmer weather can cause some relearning, if the AC hasn't been used in a while.
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