1998 HD Sportster 1200S

[Pioneer74]

Picking up a low mileage 1998 Sportster 1200 Sport. A little over 10k miles. Has had all service done at dealership with HD 20w-50 oil and HD filters. Previous owners informs me that it is due for an oil change.

I would like a better alternative to overspending on a re-badged oil produced by a country with a questionable leader. I don't plan on riding much this year, maybe 3 or 5k, because of a hectic job and finishing my basement.

I guess my questions would be:

1. Do I start a synthetic oil now or keep using Dino?
2. What is a good brand after answering question #1?
3. After answering #1 and #2, what would my OCI be?
4. Can I easily get a filter to fit the bike without having to go to the dealer for it? They tend to be a little expensive.


Thank you in advance!

 

[outoforder]

Havoline 20w50 had a good UOA posted in one of the forums. A little over $3 at an auto parts store. I think supertech 20w50, but thus far no uoa has been posted for it. I'll be using it on my next fill.

 

[GMBoy]

With an air-cooled engine like the Harley V-twin the LAST thing I'd be running is regular Supertech! Go with Mobil 1 V-twin 20W/50 or Redline V-Twin oil (or your choice or synlube). Figure you're only doing 3-5k miles a year - but you're have the best protection out there and the cost will be less $45/year with HD filter (changing once a year that is).

 

[fxrider]

I would use Valvoline 20W50 4 stroke motorcycle oil(3.99 a quart) & a puralator PL10241 oil filter( $3.49 each). Advanced autoparts has both, so does most other autoparts stores.

 

[DieselTech]

Redline 20-50 Motorcycle oil

 

[BigCahuna]

How many miles per year are you planning to ride? The Factory rec oci is 5k using their oil. So if you think you'll be doing more miles then that, synthetic may do you good. But if 2k-3k is more realistic, Harley oil wont hurt anything. Valvoline 20/50 mc oil is about $3.99 a qt and you only need 3 qts , so it shouldn't break the bank.Also just because a filter will screw onto the bike, doesn't mean it's the right one to use or will work the best.

 

[outoforder]

In the absence of any voa or uoa, how can anyone claim that supertech is no good. It meets the API specs and standards according to my manual. I suspect if walmart would change the label of it's 20w50 to heavy duty motorcycle oil, put a picture of a motorcycle on it, and jack up the price, it would fly off the shelves.

 

[outshined]

You can't go wrong with Revtech oil from your local independent shop. Most indie shops will undercut the dealer to keep you from going to them.

I have a Evo Heritage with 30k, using Revtech. No problems so far other than base cylinder gaskets (common with early Evo's). Also I have friend that has 55k on a Evo dresser using it.

Take it for what it's worth.

 

[EagleFTE]

This question comes up a lot so I'm sorry for giving my canned answer. Rev Tech, Custom Chrome, Bardahl can be thrown in here but you have to find an shop in you area that carries it.

Dino / Conventional, 3000 miles OCIs

Valvoline 20W50 Vtwin $3.95
Valvoline 20W50 VR-1 $3.95
Havoine DS 20W50 $3.00
Kendall GT-1 w/ Ti 20W50 $3.95 (but not the new motorcycle oil, they skimped on the additive package, GT-1 is better)
Shell Rotella T 15W40 $3.00

Group III/IV

M1 15W50 Silver cap. $4.50
Brad Penn Penn Grade 1 HP 20W50 $4.50 (but not the new version of the motorcycle oil, they skimped on the base oil)

Group IV/V

M1 Vtwin 20W50 $10.00,
Amsoil MCV 20W50 $11.00
Red Line 20W50 or 20W60 $11.00

If you are talking 3k per year I would just go with the M1 15W50 for $23 / 5 Qt jug at walmart. But if you think it is a "for life" kind of a bike go with the best (Grp IV/V). Actually nothing wrong with HD 360 just a bit pricey. Syn-3 way pricey for what it is. Both have political ramifications as they are CITGO.

 

[Zedhed]

Use Rotella 15w-40 and 3000mi OCIs -- it will work as well as any synthetic in a Harley. They have all roller bearings in the engine and the transmission is very under-stressed with just 65 HP and so no need for synthetic oil in that one. Japanese engines that have much more stresses last 100s of thousands of miles using conventional oil. Redline....bahh

BTW, Rotella 15w-40 is $2 per quart at Walmart not $3.

 

[boraticus]

I've run air cooled Japanese ATV engines mercilessly for over twenty five years using conventional oils. Mostly Rotella T 15W40. Those engines saw service that would make a Harley owner cringe. The machines would get stuck in a mud hole, and the engine would be screaming at 8500 rpm, wheels throwing mud and water everywhere until we'd get it out. That was a regular occurrence. That same oil was also being used in the transmission. Never had a problem in all those years.

I don't understand what it is with Harley riders feeling the need to pamper their bikes? If they're as good a machine as they claim they are, they should be able to withstand more abuse than a Japanese bike right? Isn't that why the shell out the big bucks?

I have to laugh at the guy across the street from me. He rides his Harley maybe three times a year to make the five mile ride to the doughnut shop. He has to stand beside the machine while he get's his gear on because the bike won't idle without stalling. However, after donning his costume, he pulls out an infrared thermometer to check his engine temperature before riding off! I'm waiting for the day he pulls out the stethoscope.

One would think he'd deal with the idling problem????? He's pretty good with a polishing rag and a thermometer though. I doubt that he even owns a screw driver.

 

[Pioneer74]

Lots of good information from you guys. Thanks.

Now, reading here about the primary, many people say that you can use the same type of oil for primary and the engine. Is that only true if I go with a 20w-50 synthetic, or with conventional as well?

 

[Zedhed]

Originally Posted By: Pioneer74
Lots of good information from you guys. Thanks.

Now, reading here about the primary, many people say that you can use the same type of oil for primary and the engine. Is that only true if I go with a 20w-50 synthetic, or with conventional as well?


Amsoil 20w-50 is rated for gear oil service too !!

 

[Zedhed]

Originally Posted By: boraticus
I've run air cooled Japanese ATV engines mercilessly for over twenty five years using conventional oils. Mostly Rotella T 15W40. Those engines saw service that would make a Harley owner cringe. The machines would get stuck in a mud hole, and the engine would be screaming at 8500 rpm, wheels throwing mud and water everywhere until we'd get it out. That was a regular occurrence. That same oil was also being used in the transmission. Never had a problem in all those years.

I don't understand what it is with Harley riders feeling the need to pamper their bikes? If they're as good a machine as they claim they are, they should be able to withstand more abuse than a Japanese bike right? Isn't that why the shell out the big bucks?

I have to laugh at the guy across the street from me. He rides his Harley maybe three times a year to make the five mile ride to the doughnut shop. He has to stand beside the machine while he get's his gear on because the bike won't idle without stalling. However, after donning his costume, he pulls out an infrared thermometer to check his engine temperature before riding off! I'm waiting for the day he pulls out the stethoscope.

One would think he'd deal with the idling problem????? He's pretty good with a polishing rag and a thermometer though. I doubt that he even owns a screw driver.


+1

 

[fxrider]

ATF Type -F in the Primary, 75W90 gear oil in the Tranny.

 

[Pioneer74]

According to the owners manual, the primary and transmission share 32 ounces of oil.

 

[Mr_Incredible]

Geez. I saw a thread with Harley in the title and I knew boraticus would be in here bashing Harleys and/or Harley riders. Sure enough, he did. At least this time he didn't whine about loud pipes. Yet.

1. Do I start a synthetic oil now or keep using Dino?
--Your choice, Pioneer74. I used Mobil1 in mine and I had no complaints about it.
2. What is a good brand after answering question #1?
--M1.
3. After answering #1 and #2, what would my OCI be?
--I did 3-5k mile intervals.
4. Can I easily get a filter to fit the bike without having to go to the dealer for it? They tend to be a little expensive.
--I got mine there. Went for the non-chrome type. It was only 1.5 filters a year or so.

 

[EagleFTE]

Originally Posted By: Pioneer74
Lots of good information from you guys. Thanks.

Now, reading here about the primary, many people say that you can use the same type of oil for primary and the engine. Is that only true if I go with a 20w-50 synthetic, or with conventional as well?


Figured that was coming next. This being a Sportster what you are really looking for is a "SportsTran" fluid (combined primary and tranny). MoCo sells Formula +. Note that big twins have the primary and transmission separate. Rev Tech, Bel Ray, Maxum, and others all sell products specifically for this but good old Rotella T 15W40 is very poplular for that application. I've never owned a Sportser so I don't have any personal experience to base a recomendation on.

 

[boraticus]

"Went for the non-chrome type."

Blasphemy!!!!

 

[EagleFTE]

Originally Posted By: fxrider
ATF Type -F in the Primary, 75W90 gear oil in the Tranny.


I think fxrider missed the Sportster part so in his defence, don't put ATF in your SportTran hole. Stand alone primary in a big twin, fine. SportTran No.