Boat trailer wheel bearing grease choices

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jeepster

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Friends,
For years I have been using Lubrimatic Marine Grease for boat trailer wheel bearings and outboard motor lubrication points. I have never had a failure in over 25 years using this grease in these applications. Lubrimatic Marine Grease is a calcium sulfonate based grease.
I recently bought a new fishing rig. The new trailer came from the factory with a lithium based grease for the wheel bearings. It has a E-Z Lube wheel bearing system with zerks.

Now my question: since the grease compatibility chart shows good compatibility between these two grease types, should I continue to use the Lubrimatic grease I like so well, or should I change to a lithium based grease for this application?
I have always been a believer in not mixing different based greases if it can be helped.

thanks
 
Do you put the trailer into salt or brackish water? If so, do not use lithium grease. I would stay with what you are using or go to an aluminum based grease if there is the possibility of salt water.
 
I had the same dilemma and have trailer with EZ lube. I switched to calcium sulfonate because protects better against corrosion on paper. However, I evacuated the lithium grease first, because my "mixing study" showed soft mush even though they are compatible on paper. However, after using the calcium sulfonate for a few seasons, I did not like how it softened a lot after highway driving.
My trailer manufacturer (Karavan) specifies high temp lithium grease and I went back again to that. I used Mystic brand, but it's hard to find it locally now. It least it stays firm in consistency after driving (relatively speaking) and doesn't mix with water.
 
How about the Green Grease EP? It is advertised as being water proof and therefore great for boat trailers and farm machinery as well as chassis grease. It is synthetic and can be bought at AZ and AA for 7.99 to 8.99 per large tube. 14 oz.? Anyone using this grease? Oh yes, it is supposed to not separate and leak like many chassis greases do. That is the main reason I just bought my first tube.
 
I'm not sure I trust Green Grease. Their failure to identify the thickener is worrisome. We need to know the thickener to know the compatibility with other greases. Just "mixed complex" doesn't tell us much. By the way, oil running out of grease isn't necessarily a sign of low quality grease. It does make a mess....

About "synthetic" grease--- Grease is a mixture of a thickener and oil. The oil can be conventional, or synthetic, or a blend. The thickener can be lithium complex or calcium sulfonate, or aluminum comples, or several other compounds. Some mix together fine with no problems. Others turn to slimy black water when mixed and do not protect the bearings. If a suitable thickener is used, grease containing synthetic oil has the same benefits of using synthetic lubricating oil, but the choice of thickener is critical every time grease is chosen.
 
Quote:
By the way, oil running out of grease isn't necessarily a sign of low quality grease. It does make a mess....
I agree with the above, but a leaking grease gun is very inconv nient. It has ruined several shirts of mine and also creates a oil puddle when stored.
 
Originally Posted By: Jim Spahr
Quote:
By the way, oil running out of grease isn't necessarily a sign of low quality grease. It does make a mess....
I agree with the above, but a leaking grease gun is very inconv nient. It has ruined several shirts of mine and also creates a oil puddle when stored.


I have used M1 grease for many years , and I to found their grease to seperate in a grease gun where the pressure was left on the grease tube. Just remove the pressure and that will solve the seperation problem. Also you are correct is saying the seperation thing has nothing to do with quality. In wheel bearings M1 will keep bearings very cool, even with small trailer tires.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: tig1
Originally Posted By: Jim Spahr
Quote:
By the way, oil running out of grease isn't necessarily a sign of low quality grease. It does make a mess....
I agree with the above, but a leaking grease gun is very inconv nient. It has ruined several shirts of mine and also creates a oil puddle when stored.


I have used M1 grease for many years , and I to found their grease to seperate in a grease gun where the pressure was left on the grease tube.


I disagree, I've seen pretty significant oil separation from M1 grease when it's still brand new in the tube (zero pressure). I used it for years myself and moved on to better greases, IMHO.

The sad part is Mobil makes some excellent greases (like Chevron and Shell), they are just nearly impossible to get if your a non-fleet customer.
 
Originally Posted By: Ben99GT
Originally Posted By: tig1
Originally Posted By: Jim Spahr
Quote:
By the way, oil running out of grease isn't necessarily a sign of low quality grease. It does make a mess....
I agree with the above, but a leaking grease gun is very inconv nient. It has ruined several shirts of mine and also creates a oil puddle when stored.


I have used M1 grease for many years , and I to found their grease to seperate in a grease gun where the pressure was left on the grease tube.


I disagree, I've seen pretty significant oil separation from M1 grease when it's still brand new in the tube (zero pressure). I used it for years myself and moved on to better greases, IMHO.

The sad part is Mobil makes some excellent greases (like Chevron and Shell), they are just nearly impossible to get if your a non-fleet customer.


I have M1 grease now in the tub form(got it at AZ) and in the tube with no seperation at all. I have never seen that as long as the pressure was off. Just my experience.
 
Get a tube and peel off the bottom seal, I have yet to see one that didn't have oil sitting in the bottom. I've used probably 50 tubes of the stuff with the same experience every time.
 
A couple of good reads on grease compatability and grease in general.

http://www.integritylubricants.com/articles/gr_001.pdf
http://www.integritylubricants.com/articles/gr_002.pdf


...and here are the specs of the Lubrimatic Marine grease.

NLGI Grade: 2 Thickener Type: Calcium Sulfonate Complex
Color: Green Texture: Smooth

Brief product description: An automotive and industrial grease with excellent shear stability, load carrying ability and water resistance. It is free of heavy metals and resists burning. It is formulated with oxidation inhibitors and has excellent resistance to rust and corrosion. It meets NLGI GC/LB requirements.

ASTM Typical
Test Method Result

Penetration @ 77°F = D-217
Unworked = 276
Worked 60 Strokes = 279
Worked 10,000 Strokes = 287
Worked 100,000 Strokes = 296

Roll Stability (% change) D-1831 = 293(+5.0)

Rust Protection D-1743 = Pass

Dropping Point, °F(°C) D-2265 = 550°F (288°C)

4-Ball EP Performance D-2596
Load Wear Index = 72
Weld Point, Kgf = 500

4-Ball Wear Protection D-2266
Scar Diameter, mm = 0.45

Timken OK Load, lbs. D-2509 = 65

Wheel Bearing Life Test, hrs. D-3527 = 120

Water Washout D-1264
@ 175°F, % = 0.4

Water Spray Off, % D-4049 = 67

Oil Separation, % Loss D-1742 = .17

Base Oil Characteristics
Vis @ 40° cSt D-445 = 219
Vis @ 100° cSt D-445 = 18.7
Vis @100°F SUS D-2161 = 1000
Vis @210°F SUS D-2161 = 85
Viscosity Index D-2270 = 96

Low Temp Torque-Wheel
Bearing D-4693 = 9
-40°C, N • m
 
From experience:

Schaeffers 274 #1 if in cooler climates or #2 in warmer climates.

I tried the Amsoil waterproof grease, and cannot figure out where it goes, it just seems to wash out or disapear and I have to keep repacking.

Of course, I've never been near salt water except for in the spring when all the road salt mixes with the melting snow.
 
Originally Posted By: Ben99GT
Get a tube and peel off the bottom seal, I have yet to see one that didn't have oil sitting in the bottom. I've used probably 50 tubes of the stuff with the same experience every time.


I used many tubes of M1 grease over the years with the same problem, that and it dripping from the gun. I changed over to Amsoil grease and the problem was solved.
 
Got bearing buddies and good grease seals on the hubs and know how to use them. There will be little to worry about reguardless of the grease used.
 
Originally Posted By: gamefoo21
From experience:



I tried the Amsoil waterproof grease, and cannot figure out where it goes, it just seems to wash out or disapear and I have to keep repacking.



Surprised at that comment.
I have used their syn waterproof grease for years now on my sled bogie wheels, suspension components, wheel bearings with bearing buddies etc and I have never found it to disappear?

With Amsoil engine oil,,,, now that's a different story!
3 vehicles, 3 consumption issues!
 
On the lightest duty install, the outer tie rod ends on a '98 Swift... it seems to just evaporate out of the cover boots. I always seem to be adding to it. Once this tube is used, it's never getting replaced, and I'll find time to clean all the grease out... :lol:
 
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