EGR Faulty? Syptoms/Problems.???

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JMac101

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Feb 13, 2010
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New Jersey
Hey everyone.
I noticed my van running and idling really rough. I checked the EGR valve and at idle I noticed that the valve it self shakes and the the part that does the opening and closing jumps up and down causes different idle speeds. I tried sticking a scre driver in the valve and forcing it one way and it makes the van stall to the point where it is about to die and then when I release the van comes back and continues to run. At lower speeds I also have experienced a flashing check engine light. At high speeds the car runs great with awesome gas mileage, however it is sluggish and there is no get up, it takes like quarter a mile to get up to 60 mph. Anyone think the EGR could be back? Anybody know the symptoms of a bad or faulty EGR?
 
Year (assumed pre-96), make, model? Someone will know what triggers the thing.

At least you know the thing is functional (as was stated), now you've got to find the faulty control mechanism. Sounds like the the vacuum routing has the PCV regulating the valve. I'm not suggest that is the case, it just parallels the action in the way you described it.
 
2001 Dodge Caravan with a P0304 Code. The EGR valve jumps and shifts up and down on idle. Idle goes low to high. I have loss of power on acceleration and very ruff idle. Everything else works fine. I have replaced: plugs, wires, coil pack, injectors, fuel rail, fuel rail wiring harness, MAP Sensor, Throttle position sensor, Valve cover gasket & spark plug tube seals, changed oil and filter.
The only things not changed are the EGR Valve and the O2 sensors.
The EGR is mounted right next to cylinder 4 on the crank case and the back preasure tube for it is mounted right under cylinder 4 on the Air Intake Manifold.
I tried replacing everything else, Im asking if a faulty EGR could cause this type of reaction? Is it possible the EGR could be faulty and letting too much exhaust back into the nearest cylinder?
I also have white smoke from the exhaust upon start up but after warmed up the exhaust goes to normal. No coolant leaks, no oil leaks. Just a P0304 code and rough idle. Another thing is: I heard a faulty EGR could cause a vaccuum leak which could cause rough idle. It is a stock EGR that is suggested to be changed out at 100,000 miles and Im currently at 137,000 miles.
Also one more thing is, when I disconnected the EGR and back preasure pipe and removed it I cleaned it out with carb cleaner and it was loaded with carbon deposits. The pipe itself was completly clogged all together and Im guessing the EGR was damaged in the process?
Anyone agree? Help? Advice? anything from anyone would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
John
 
EGR valve shouldn't be opening AT ALL during idle operations, your ECM should control the EGR ops. via a solenoid of some type.

Find the EGR operating mechanism and fix it.
 
Is this the one that has a plastic EGR control solenoid diaphragm looking thing that is located very close to the ERG valve? If my memory is correct when replacing the EGR on those dodge/Chrysler products the EGR control valve comes with the new EGR. That is the only way to even get one or the other. They cannot be purchased separately in this case through the OEM. If that is the animal that you have, that is you problem. The control valve failed due to their location to close to the EGR valve. Hence being sold only as a pair regardless of which one you were servicing.
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yes the diaphram looking this is really close to the EGR. It is the EGR pipe connected to the EGR and then a small vaccuum hose conneccted from the EGR to the diaphram looking thing. I guess it is there to create suction and vaccuum power. I have replaced everything else and I cannot think of any other reason besides the EGR being bad. In fact the EGR itself might be good but that diaphram piece might be shot. Your right, you can only buy them as a pair. Every parts store wants upwards of $145.00 plus tax and I dont even want to know what the dealer is charging. I found a place online called www.clearlyauto.com and they have a brand new EGR complete with everything for $100.26 plus $8.00 shipping.
Like I said before I changed all the basics and I cant think of anything else I could change besides The EGR or the O2 sensor.
I didnt think the valve inside the EGR should be moving at idle. It bounces with the ruff idle and appears to be letting air in and out at idle. The van idles so rough it shakes and sounds like a go kart. I know this is a simple fix it is just driving me crazy, trying to find the source.
 
It should never move at idle... In fact someone would have to light power brake the engine while you watch to see the EGR move at all. The system is designed to move under light to medium engine load when the exhaust gas is needed most to prevent pinging. You have found the problem my friend. I recommend the parts house EGR. That way you have a place to warranty incase of an early failure or similar new part failure. O2 sensors should be replaced every 70k to 100K. They simply cannot work as designed much longer than that. Gas is not cheap. They more than pay for them selves at that change interval. But the O2 is not your problem at this time. Just educating you.
 
I would have to review the parameters to set a misfire code for cyl#4 as the Chrysler/Dodge engineers see it. Those parameters change from engine and model year. But it is likely on that model from what I remember.
 
I just hop you do not have plugged cat (plugged exhaust) causing the low power (long time to get to 60 mph) that will fry the EGR. You may not be done with this yet. EGR problems do not cause loss of power. Only stalling, rough idle, and pinging
 
Ok thanks guys. I will try replacing the EGR and hopefully that corrects the problem if not Im going to look into the cat and the O2 sensor. I will order the EGR and come back and post the new status thanks for your time guys and girls.
 
Could I disconnect my cat converter and clean it out and then re-install it on the same day as I change out the EGR?
 
yeah I read the posts. why do you ask? Everyone says change the EGR and that I may have a plugged Cat (which I dont think I have) so I asked if it was possible to disconnect the Cat and clean it versus replacing it. I read every reply that I go on here. Why?
 
Somebody surely is going to jump on that flashing MIL right?

Right?

It indicates a misfire and flashes to get one's attention, as a misfire can sent unburned fuel into the cat - where it combusts, sending temperatures into the cat-guts-melting region.
 
Yes a flashing MIL light indicates a misfire and the P0304 code that he pulled confirms that. Yes that is enough to damage/melt the cat substrate to the point of restriction. However that does not happen right away. Removing/breaking out the cat substrate will open the exhaust but will set a catalytic efficiency code via the down stream O2 sensor. That will turn the MIL on. At this mileage with a malfunctioning EGR and a reported loss of power on the original post, I suspect the EGR is not all that is in need of repair. He may have restricted exhaust, he may not, but it is one of the most over looked reasons for loss of performance problems on higher mileage vehicles. We will take it one step at a time.
 
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