Cut open PureOne PL14610

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This is off my 2006 Kawasaki EX500, with 12,907 miles on the odo, and 2,808 on this filter. Oil was Rotella synthetic 5W-40, but not the new T6 version. I took this off the bike back in early November when I put it away for the winter. I just can't believe how clean the oil stays with this combination, and how good the filter looks too. Oil was only brown, not black. Just judging from the looks of everything, I should extend the OCIs, but I'm pretty conservative with motorcycle oils and filters.
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Must love P1's!! Great filter for the money. Ugly as all get out so I use the bosch myself now
 
So you are using a car oil filter on a motorcycle? I am too. I use the Pure ones on my Polaris atvs. I havent had any trouble. I cut open a motorcycle specific filter and a Purolator pure one and see no difference or reason, why Purolator tells you, You cant use them on motorcycles and to use the cheaper constructed motorcycle filters. That filter looks great, for that many miles and so does the oil. But motorcycles dont have all the pollution regulations on them as cars and trucks do and most of the contaminates still get to go out the exhaust instead of back into the engine and oil.
 
The filter does look great but then again it only has 2808 miles on it. Syn Rotella and a Pure One filter - great price and excellent protection!
 
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I change the filter on every second or third oil change on the bike(s). It's a pretty common practice by many savvy bikers and ATVers. That filter would probably been useful for another six to eight thousand miles easily. The colour of the oil would indicate that it was relatively fresh as well.
 
+1 to boraticus, but I'm more paranoid about motorcycle filters than car filters. My reasoning is that if I'm changing the oil anyway I might as well change the filter for another $5 or so, using P1 filters purchased from Amazon. Of course I'm probably not getting the best filtration that way, as I understand that filters improve their efficiency towards the second half of their life. Probably a case of someone (me) being too conservative and actually getting poorer results because of it.
 
Looks great P1 are awesome filters,but your changing waaay to soon,take it out 4-5,000 at least.

or do UOA's and see how far you can go.
 
Originally Posted By: Panzerman
So you are using a car oil filter on a motorcycle? I am too. I use the Pure ones on my Polaris atvs. I havent had any trouble. I cut open a motorcycle specific filter and a Purolator pure one and see no difference or reason, why Purolator tells you, You cant use them on motorcycles and to use the cheaper constructed motorcycle filters. That filter looks great, for that many miles and so does the oil. But motorcycles dont have all the pollution regulations on them as cars and trucks do and most of the contaminates still get to go out the exhaust instead of back into the engine and oil.


Purolator is doing a CYA move with there P1 filters and motorcycles. The consensus is (ended up talking with lots of people) that certain motorcycle engines still use ball/roller bearings. These engines run low oil pressure, but have high flow. So, the filters have lower PSI settings for bypass and higher flow characteristics than most off the shelf automotive filters. Since the automotive filters fit, that is what people put on and ended up with engine damage.

However, since many modern bikes have oiling systems similar to a cars (flow, PSI etc), the automotive filters work OK and provide a cheaper alternative to M/C specific filters. But since there were some issues (and ignorant owners) Purolator put out the legal warning.

I personally use the P1 PL14610 and PL14612 with confidence, as my bike (FZ6) has oil system specs that match pretty much match every import car that would use the 14610/14612 filters any way.

So if others with your type of bike have run automotive filters with little or no issue, then I would not worry.
 
I've gone through the same dilema, MC specific filter or P1/Wix/OEM. I just bought a new 2009 Ninja 650r and couldn't believe the OEM filters are $26@. I found the Wix/Napa filters for $14 and the Purolator ML16817 for $5@ on Amazon. I order 6 of the ML16817 as I will be dumping oil a few times during break in. Every posting I've seen on the ML filters say they are imported by Purolator. I would think this is still built to Purolator's specs and is still a decent filter. But that and the cheap price tag has me a little concerned. I guess a UOA will tell in as I get some miles on it. I didn't want to have a warranty problem using a P1 or another Auto filter.
 
On some models it's the bypass and drainback valves that are the main difference in the filters. with the harley twin cam , oil is flitered before it goes in the motor. If it didn't have the correct anti drainback valve, the oil filter would be empty, and no oil would be pumped into the motor for maybe 15 seconds. Weight of oil, and cold start temps also factor in how fast oil is pumped thru the motor.
 
Originally Posted By: behrend2000
I've gone through the same dilema, MC specific filter or P1/Wix/OEM. I just bought a new 2009 Ninja 650r and couldn't believe the OEM filters are $26@. I found the Wix/Napa filters for $14 and the Purolator ML16817 for $5@ on Amazon. I order 6 of the ML16817 as I will be dumping oil a few times during break in. Every posting I've seen on the ML filters say they are imported by Purolator. I would think this is still built to Purolator's specs and is still a decent filter. But that and the cheap price tag has me a little concerned. I guess a UOA will tell in as I get some miles on it. I didn't want to have a warranty problem using a P1 or another Auto filter.

Those Puro's are good filters - I've used the '18 on my Suzukis for years with no problems. It IS Purolator's recommended filter for your bike, so there certainly shouldn't be any warranty issues if you have an engine problem. That Amazon price is pretty hard to beat, too!!
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