Milkshake Oil

[JCCADILLACMOBILE]

Hi. Car had been operating with Blown head Gasket for a while.. last time it Overheated, i added a gallon of Water into the COOLANT (NOT oil) and when i came back two hours later.. the Oil looked like Milkshake.

Had car towed home, put in new Oil, tried to turn it over.. Went to Milkshake again.

I let the Crankcase drainovernight, the bolt is still off. but how does Oil get to look like Milkshake?

The new head and Gaskets are going on -tomorrow,- but i think once the Head and Gasket is changed, it will start and run (Water in Oil kills Combustion.

Has anyone ense had their Oil turn to Milkshake, and are there any pother Gaskets involved in the Job? I also have refrained from trying to clean the replacement Head, as i dont know How..

factory Fill will be a Blend, to make it 7.5W-30 w aurts 5W-30 and 2 quarts 10W-30) -- Why do people say to do a 500 mile OCI after doign the job, is that "heat Cycling" and the remainder of the water that WAS in there will go away?

 

[demarpaint]

Milk shake oil means water/AF in the oil. Gaskets involved will be valve cover gasket/gaskets, head gasket/gaskets, and probably a thermostat gasket. Once the job is done pressure check the system to be certain there are no leaks. I would not run milk shake oil. I would change the oil and filter with the head gasket, confirm I have no leaks, run a short OCI and change the oil and filter again. Oil and filters are cheap, ruining an engine is not so cheap. JMO

 

[JCCADILLACMOBILE]

Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Milk shake oil means water/AF in the oil. Gaskets involved will be valve cover gasket/gaskets, head gasket/gaskets, and probably a thermostat gasket. Once the job is done pressure check the system to be certain there are no leaks. I would not run milk shake oil. I would change the oil and filter with the head gasket, confirm I have no leaks, run a short OCI and change the oil and filter again. Oil and filters are cheap, ruining an engine is not so cheap. JMO


I agree. It wont start back up, it turns over, though. Hardest part will be Filter.. i STILL cant get it off.

I didnt plan on running :Milkshake Oil" im just telling you what i saw, and i believe it to be the reason the car wont start until the new Head and Gaskets.. i put some cheapy oil in there just to see if it would Instantly Milkshake, and it did.

And what is this "Lucas Oil Products TB Zinc-Plus Engine Break-In Oil Additive (16 oz.)" Product? Surely its not needed?

 

[rclint]

I would not add any special break in, nor cleaning products to the oil. In fact as many of the people will fringe at this, the milk shake will clean up soon after the engine is put back into the correct operating condition (head gasket replaced). Changing the oil at 500 miles will remove contamination, water is a bad contaminator of oil, so change oil before you run the engine, 500 miles is short, however if it makes you feel good no problem. Two oil changes should be enough to clean the engine of any residue from water, or any other junk that may have gotten into the sump. The heat will help to evaporate any left over water as well, and you really need to get the oil filter of regardless of what has to be done to get it off.

I have had a engine seize from hydraulic lock from bad head gasket filling up cylinders with coolant. Changed head gasket, remove as much water from cylinders as possible, oil change, zero problems. As you seen the oil will look like a milkshake, it's no big deal just change the oil before you run the engine, then again later. Keep a check on the oil.

Another thing that may make people fringe here, I would run the engine about 1 week keep a check on both oil, and coolant. Nice long drive if you can, at least a couple of time 30-45 minutes interstate would be great. After that I would put some GM stop leak/sealant tablets in it. Local parts stores carry the tablets now also, they are gold Bars makes them. I have seen people rip, rare, moan, groan, bad mouth mechanics if they have a small leak after having a head gasket replaced, etc.. however those very same people would never spend the extra money to have the head surfaced, or other things that cost money to insure a perfect fit with no leaks. I myself would not spend the extra money doing this, however I also understand that tolerances stack up, heads/blocks change... it's not factory new, clean etc anymore so the tablets do what they are supposed to do, and hurt nothing.

 

[JCCADILLACMOBILE]

Originally Posted By: rclint
I would not add any special break in, nor cleaning products to the oil. In fact as many of the people will fringe at this, the milk shake will clean up soon after the engine is put back into the correct operating condition (head gasket replaced). Changing the oil at 500 miles will remove contamination, water is a bad contaminator of oil, so change oil before you run the engine, 500 miles is short, however if it makes you feel good no problem. Two oil changes should be enough to clean the engine of any residue from water, or any other junk that may have gotten into the sump. The heat will help to evaporate any left over water as well, and you really need to get the oil filter of regardless of what has to be done to get it off.

I have had a engine seize from hydraulic lock from bad head gasket filling up cylinders with coolant. Changed head gasket, remove as much water from cylinders as possible, oil change, zero problems. As you seen the oil will look like a milkshake, it's no big deal just change the oil before you run the engine, then again later. Keep a check on the oil.

Another thing that may make people fringe here, I would run the engine about 1 week keep a check on both oil, and coolant. Nice long drive if you can, at least a couple of time 30-45 minutes interstate would be great. After that I would put some GM stop leak/sealant tablets in it. Local parts stores carry the tablets now also, they are gold Bars makes them. I have seen people rip, rare, moan, groan, bad mouth mechanics if they have a small leak after having a head gasket replaced, etc.. however those very same people would never spend the extra money to have the head surfaced, or other things that cost money to insure a perfect fit with no leaks. I myself would not spend the extra money doing this, however I also understand that tolerances stack up, heads/blocks change... it's not factory new, clean etc anymore so the tablets do what they are supposed to do, and hurt nothing.


I thank you so much. I also am glad my engine did not "Seize Up;" Simply wotn start. It does turn, however. .and i called it quits and decided to WAIT and get the Gaskets and all, as i realized the 2nd attempt at turning it over that it was neither battery, nor fuel.. but milky oil.

I wonder if i should use Gasoline and a Paper Towel to clean any "Carbon" off the Valves before that Head goes on

Thanks very much!!! - Joseph

 

[rclint]

I know you probably get tired of the word no, but no don't attempt to clean the valves with gasoline either, as gas is constantly around the valves it's not going to do much cleaning. However you may try to soak them with some b-12 chem tool, or seam foam from local advanced auto, or auto zone. I have never used it, however I have read that GM makes a outstanding carbon cleaning chemical as well. Some others from the board may be able to make a better suggestion.. be aware of any solvents containing soaps etc, some of the sodium hydroxide based cleaners can pit certain metals, especially aluminum heads.

 

[addyguy]

You'll want to change the oil a couple of times, at 500 or so miles, after this repair is done. That will ensure you flush out all of the oil/AF/water mix from the engine. You don't want ANY of this to remain in the engine.

After you do 2 or so flushes, you might want to do a UOA on your oil after about 3k miles, to make sure there is no further problems.

 

[cchase]

I would sure be getting that gunk out of the engine and then leaving everything alone until it's fixed. Water is not a good thing to have in places that need oil.

 

[JCCADILLACMOBILE]

Here is the Head i bought. Im not using the IMG tags, but posting the links, for those that wish to see what Head will replace the one that is being removed, as it is CERTAINLY of Unknown Health. gasket kit i will get too.. this one seems to have some still on it. I may even not touch it, after what i have read here.

Donor head: 1989 Pontiac Grand Am 2.5L
Donor Car: 1991 Oldsmobile Cutlass Calais 2.5L

"New Head" shipped UPS:


http://viewmorepics.myspace.com/index.cf...mageID=40117068

http://viewmorepics.myspace.com/index.cf...mageID=40117069

http://viewmorepics.myspace.com/index.cf...mageID=40117070


http://viewmorepics.myspace.com/index.cf...mageID=40117071

http://viewmorepics.myspace.com/index.cf...mageID=40117072

http://viewmorepics.myspace.com/index.cf...mageID=40117073

 

[ted s]

if it ran very long with that milkstake you damaged bearings etc.

 

[cobos06GT]

I wouldn't be surprised if your block was cracked, letting water/coolant into the engine.

How long did the car overheat for?

 

[JCCADILLACMOBILE]

Originally Posted By: cobos06GT
I wouldn't be surprised if your block was cracked, letting water/coolant into the engine.

How long did the car overheat for?


Ted S: Id didnt. Car NEVER Ran with Milkshake Oil.. i LIOTERALLY Ran it ONE TOO MANY Trips.. NEVER Ran with Milkshake Oil. i now want to knwo how BEST to "Heat Cycle" the engine, to remocve ALL Remnants.

And to in Quotes: Removed Head DID have a CRACK between Cylinders 2 and 3.. alaso Spark Plugs were Melted in.

As for Timing concerns... On a hunch, i went and Turned the Key and DEPRESSED THE GAS PEDAL. - THE CAAR TURNED OVER.- I Charged the Battery.. START!! Now all is well. *The Battery was THAT low. Couldnt engage Starter right.)

Now the Valvoline MaxLife Synthetic Blend 5W-30 is in there (Judging by removed Head, this will be its oil for life) and i need to know how best to "Heat Cycle" it.

Any suggestions, now that car is running.. and it was the Battery?

Thanks!

1991 Olds Calais 2.5L "Iron Duke" Tech4 Engine, 182,000 Miles
1989 Pontiac Grand Am 2.5L "Iron Duke" Tech4 Head.. Unknown Mileage.

Runs Fine...No gasket Smoke, all is well...

 

[cfromc]

What are you trying to "Heat cycle" and why? The new head? You don't really need to do anything special except watch your coolant level and change the oil. I had intake gaskets replaced under warranty several years ago and I asked the dealer to change the oil after they were done. I then drove about 20 miles and changed it again. After that I put about 60,000 miles on it and sold it without having another engine problem. One oil change is not going to get everything out. Run it for up to 100 miles and change it again. It is cheap insurance to make sure you've got most of the coolant out.

 

[rclint]

cfromc

I think he means heat cycle the engine to remove any left over coolant/water. Bringing the engine up to full operating temp, and driving it on a good 30-45 minute trip (maybe even an hour or more) will help remove any left over coolant contamination. This should happen in normal driving conditions, however some people do have short trips to work, and never really bring the engine up to full operating temp, or if they do it's just reaching that point when they arrive to their destination.

 

[JCCADILLACMOBILE]

Originally Posted By: rclint
cfromc

I think he means heat cycle the engine to remove any left over coolant/water. Bringing the engine up to full operating temp, and driving it on a good 30-45 minute trip (maybe even an hour or more) will help remove any left over coolant contamination. This should happen in normal driving conditions, however some people do have short trips to work, and never really bring the engine up to full operating temp, or if they do it's just reaching that point when they arrive to their destination.


yes thats what i meant.


I WAS gonna change the Oil in "500 Miles" and maybe pput the Full Synthetic in there AFTER a 2nd 500 Mile OCI.. but i wonder if going 500 Miles is too LONG, to get all ?????? that was int here out? (Remember, the Oil was a light Fudge, Beige color, "Milkshake" and it was Drained. My Car STILL has Dijpn Mustard looking Oil in the Driveway.")

I mean, unless changing it at 500 miles, and again in 500 miles and using SeaFoam each time is fine...

Thanks Guys.

(And for those just joining: My car had Milkshake Oil in it ONE TIIME after an Overheat. I had a New Used Head from an 89 Grand Am put on as well as New gaskets.. MOST the Milkshake was drained out of the Cylindders and stuff, but thats WATER so at first car didnt start.. then i charged battery and GAVE IT GAS with the Pedal, and it starts now, doesnt just make the "Whirrrrrrrrrrr" sound... I dont know exactly what happened, but now it starts when i press gas peedal, otherwise it will just turn over. So im attempting to get all old remnants of "Milkshake" out. Thanks)