My First Blackstone Oil Report...

[gathermewool]

I think a major part of fuel dilution's (and moisture's) affect depends on how the car is driven AFTER the warmup period. Wouldn't driving moderately immediately after an excessive warmup negate a lot of the issues compared with an elderly person who excessively warms up her car, then drives like, well, a granny a couple of miles down the road to curch or the grocery store?

 

[OrdnanceMarine]

Originally Posted By: gathermewool
I think a major part of fuel dilution's (and moisture's) affect depends on how the car is driven AFTER the warmup period. Wouldn't driving moderately immediately after an excessive warmup negate a lot of the issues compared with an elderly person who excessively warms up her car, then drives like, well, a granny a couple of miles down the road to curch or the grocery store?


Sure, getting everything completely hot after dumping a lot of fuel into your oil will cook all of the fuel off (not sure what kinds of residual would remain). As long as the car had enough time to vaporize the fuel and have it removed through the PCV system you really wouldn't see much, I'd think.

 

[wolfc70]

How cold does it get in your part of NY? This is my routine in the morning, start the car, scrape windows, drive car. Idling for 3 min is not the worst, but unless it is below 0f, there really is no need to. When leaving school do this; start car, clean windows if needed, load favorite cds/tune radio/turn iPod on, take the long way out of the parking lot, then merge on to the freeway. Granted do not go chasing the redline or use WOT, but you can drive pretty much normally after 3-5 minutes of running.

Even when it gets really cold, like this past January when it was -22F one morning, I never let it idle for more than a few minutes. My car takes a long time to warm up idling, the temp gauge moves much quicker under normal driving conditions.

 

[ZOMGVTEK]

Originally Posted By: wolfc70
How cold does it get in your part of NY? This is my routine in the morning, start the car, scrape windows, drive car. Idling for 3 min is not the worst, but unless it is below 0f, there really is no need to. When leaving school do this; start car, clean windows if needed, load favorite cds/tune radio/turn iPod on, take the long way out of the parking lot, then merge on to the freeway. Granted do not go chasing the redline or use WOT, but you can drive pretty much normally after 3-5 minutes of running.

Even when it gets really cold, like this past January when it was -22F one morning, I never let it idle for more than a few minutes. My car takes a long time to warm up idling, the temp gauge moves much quicker under normal driving conditions.


Its usually 20-30ºF, but dips down to 0-10º often. The difference between the car at 30º and 0º is extremely noticeable. At 30º it starts and runs generally fine, at 0º everything feels very slow. My car warms up reasonably quick at idle, 3 mins takes 30º coolant up to 130º.

 

[whitesands]

Hard driving, high rpm pedal to the metal will result in a higher rate of wear but not 3 minutes of 500 rpm idle time...

 

[gathermewool]

Originally Posted By: whitesands
Hard driving, high rpm pedal to the metal will result in a higher rate of wear but not 3 minutes of 1500 rpm idle time...


fixed : P

 

[CourierDriver]

What oil would u use, see my ride below, I run 6000 t0 8000 miles per month, yep my gas bill = some folks apartment rent.lol

 

[wolfc70]

Originally Posted By: whitesands
Hard driving, high rpm pedal to the metal will result in a higher rate of wear but not 3 minutes of 500 rpm idle time...



The idling will not cause immediate wear, but it does put a ton of moisture and fuel into the oil. When it gets really cold (below 0F) PCV lines will freeze up and cause all sorts of problems. Moisture can be a big problem. I have even seen exhaust systems so full of water they freeze shut and prevent the vehicle from starting.

Things I have learned from dealing with arctic like temps; Avoid excessive idling if possible, gas line anti freeze never hurt anything, and once the vehicle is warmed up, do not be afraid of the throttle. This helps push any moisture in the exhaust system out, and the increased engine load will help raise oil temps.

 

[ZOMGVTEK]

Dont worry, im not afraid of the throttle when the engine is warmed up. High rpms with a warm engine only fixes problems if you ask me.

And it would take a whole lot of moisture to clog a 3" straight pipe.

 

[OrdnanceMarine]

Originally Posted By: ZOMGVTEK
Dont worry, im not afraid of the throttle when the engine is warmed up. High rpms with a warm engine only fixes problems if you ask me.

And it would take a whole lot of moisture to clog a 3" straight pipe.


You put a 3" exhaust on your J30 Accord? Really? Definitely agree that you want to run this engine hard from time to time to burn out all of the effects of cold weather and idling. JoeFromPA reminded me of the phrase that covers running an engine hard to keep it running well. The Italian Tune-Up! I think this pertains to the Ferrari end of Italian cars, not the Fiat end.

 

[ZOMGVTEK]

I wouldn't want any of that scary low end torque the J30 puts out. I believe the catback is measured as 3" OD, and the headers are somewhat smaller, probably 2 3/4". And besides, loud pipes save lives. (Even though its not very loud)

Dont worry, it usually does not sound like a weedwacker. And the car is super slow, so im not terribly worried about the whole lack of back pressure thing. If im going WOT im probably already going 40.

 

[OrdnanceMarine]

Originally Posted By: ZOMGVTEK
I wouldn't want any of that scary low end torque the J30 puts out. I believe the catback is measured as 3" OD, and the headers are somewhat smaller, probably 2 3/4". And besides, loud pipes save lives. (Even though its not very loud)

Dont worry, it usually does not sound like a weedwacker. And the car is super slow, so im not terribly worried about the whole lack of back pressure thing. If im going WOT im probably already going 40.


The stock K20Z3 Civic Si puts out about the same amount of HP at the crank as your J30 Accord and the stock exhaust is just under 2". Many of the aftermarket exhausts for the Si are 2.25". Few are as big as 2.75" and generally used with forced induction applications pushing well into the 350+ HP range. I have a 2.5" system and I'm currently seeing 242 HP at the hubs (~260 HP at the crank) so I can't imagine that a 3" exhaust would be properly sized for that J30. Perhaps you see why I'm asking?

 

[ZOMGVTEK]

I see why you are asking.

But the cheapest was also the largest. And im a fan of uselessly large pipes. Im aware my engine puts down very little power, my brother tells me about it daily. (Who happens to have a 2009 Si...)

Overall I believe that the catback is a power loss. Which I dont really care about, so bigger = better I suppose. My stock exhaust was rusted, and this was cheaper than the OEM replacement and is quality chinese stainless steel.

 

[OrdnanceMarine]

Originally Posted By: ZOMGVTEK
....quality chinese stainless steel.


Gotta love it!

 

[440Magnum]

The high iron and copper scare me, and combined with the high sodium I'd really have to wonder if this engine is putting coolant into the oil.

The high sodium *might* be from the virgin oil (I'm not familiar with Eneos) which is why a virgin oil analysis would be helpful. But in the absence of other data, that would be my fear. People are right to point out that extended idling isn't good, but I would expect it to show up as fuel dilution and rapid loss of TBN, not as excessive copper and iron.

 

[millerbl00]

The catalytic converter will take a beating from that idle time. And I suspect that before the fuel can burn off it is causing some of the high UOA readings. But it all depends on how long you want to keep the car...

 

[ZOMGVTEK]

Originally Posted By: millerbl00
The catalytic converter will take a beating from that idle time. And I suspect that before the fuel can burn off it is causing some of the high UOA readings. But it all depends on how long you want to keep the car...


Good thing I dont have a catalytic then.
I plan on getting rid of the car within a year or two, so im not terribly concerned.

 

[wolfc70]

Originally Posted By: ZOMGVTEK
Originally Posted By: millerbl00
The catalytic converter will take a beating from that idle time. And I suspect that before the fuel can burn off it is causing some of the high UOA readings. But it all depends on how long you want to keep the car...


Good thing I dont have a catalytic then.
I plan on getting rid of the car within a year or two, so im not terribly concerned.


Uh, that may explain why you have some drive-ability issues. Unless you re-flashed the ECU or are using o2 simulators, the ECU is in limp mode and may explain why it runs/shifts poorly.

 

[ZOMGVTEK]

The ECU is most definitely not in limp mode. Theres just a extender on the downstream o2, enough to keep the ECU happy. The car doesn't really do anything terribly unusual, it feels like most any other cold Honda. Nobody else appears to notice how their car feels when its cold, but I do. My brothers 2009 Civic Si has a significantly more erratic idle when its cold than mine, and my other brothers 2010 Civic also is a bit more erratic than mine when cold. Both are drive by wire, whereas mine is drive by cable. So you would think it would be smoother, it is not.

Regardless, they dont notice it or care. I just like how my car drives when its warmer. It feels fine if its high 30-40's outside. But when its 0-20 its massively different. It never went below -10ºF here, so I couldn't tell you how it is when its really, really cold. But im sure it wouldnt be too happy. Everything feels cold, thick, and slow.