RedLine 5w-20

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Originally Posted By: Oregoonian
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I think the question is ... if your paying twice or even three times the cost of a good Syn or Blend...are you getting double or triple the protection...I doubt it! So thats enough evidence that your wasteing money on these high priced, so-called superior oils (Amzoil, RL etc.) and filters.
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No, this is not the question. The correct question is to find an oil that can be carried out for extended oil change intervals. As mentioned, I'm doubtful similar results would be achieved with a dino or blend. As for a good syn ... which one? I'm only aware of a minor few that are true cat iv or v synthetics basestock versus highly processed group iii's. Also, the cost of true syns are comparable to RedLine. In any case, I understand your position but as I found good results with RedLine, I'll pay the extra cost and continue the placebo effect.

And Jeff, I'm not sure what you're asking? The TBN value of this oil is very good.

Doug
 
Ah, I should clarify.
I was thinking that for the price of Redline, that the TBN would be a bit higher than 9.

The Amsoil ATM that I'm currently using has a TBN of 12.2 and is considered an extended drain oil.
Mobil 1's 0w40 has a TBN of 12.2-12.5 and is listed as long service oil for BMW and Porsche and such.

So my question is; is the Redline considered an extended service oil like Amsoil and some of the Mobil 1 line up?
And if so, is a TBN of 9 starting out a little on the weak side for a long life oil?

Not bashing Redline in anyway, just curious to hear some expert opinions. :)
 
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Originally Posted By: JeffGoji
Thank you for posting this VOA.
The TBN seems kind of low, is Redline considered to be an extended drain oil like Amsoil?


No not considered an extended drain oil, but lasts pretty long. More of a high perf. oil.
 
Right. Won't hold up as long as Amsoil.

Redline is an overbuilt oil for extreme high temps and racing.
 
Originally Posted By: REDDOG
Other than the interest we share in common we all have different wants or "needs". Some are interested in spending as as little as possible to "get the job done" and others seek perfection or have other interests that justify higher costs or efforts.


If you carefully read saaber1 and REDDOG (see above), the real issue is not about whether an engine can achieve high mileage with dino oil. It's about the CONDITION of the engine at high miles. Some people have minimal standards for their engines, other people have higher standards. Excellence is never cheap, just ask an Olympic athlete. However, it's always inspiring.

Jeff, please see the discussion below about "TBN and TAN in ester oils":

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1583684&page=all
 
Originally Posted By: Pablo
Originally Posted By: JeffGoji
Thank you for posting this VOA.
The TBN seems kind of low, is Redline considered to be an extended drain oil like Amsoil?


No not considered an extended drain oil, but lasts pretty long. More of a high perf. oil.


Originally Posted By: buster
Right. Won't hold up as long as Amsoil.

Redline is an overbuilt oil for extreme high temps and racing.


Looks like I'll be sticking with Amsoil for my regular usage, and switching over to Redline if I need a heavy duty racing oil for the track.
Thanks guys.

Originally Posted By: Bruce T
REDDOG said:
Jeff, please see the discussion below about "TBN and TAN in ester oils":

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1583684&page=all


Very interesting data on the TBN and TAN for ester oils.
Thanks for the link!
 
With all that zinc, is that good for todays newer cars? Just wondering how that would effect the catalytic converters. Otherwise, the additives look really strong.
 
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While I'm a user of RL products, their 5W-20 grade with the possible exception of their 10W-30 grade is my least favorite oil.
Reason is, it really is a 30wt oil with a low 100C vis' spec. Using it in a 20wt application really makes no sense because of it's very high 40C vis of 55 cSt (higher than any 20wt made) in conjunction with it's VI of only 145 gives it a start-up vis higher than most 5W-30 syn's such as PP, M1, Syntec etc not to mention every 5W-20 dino.

RL's own 0W-30 is a superior formulation that is lighter at all start-up temps as high as 90F which is the main reason for choosing a 20wt oil in the first place.

If you want a 20wt and you like RL for it's chemistry then choose their excellent 0W-20. If it's 100C vis of 8.2 cSt is too light substitute a quart or two of their 0W-30.
 
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
If it's 100C vis of 8.2 cSt is too light substitute a quart or two of their 0W-30.


I do like this alternative. Definitely something to consider.
 
Good point Caterham. I have a suspicion, however, that the cSt of this oil is lower then dino's as the temperature drops below 40C and more in the range of typical starting temps. Is there anyway to find, or even calculate, cSt at say 0C for this oil? It would be nice to visually look at a plotted representation of cSt curves with temperatures but with only two data points, can't be done.

Doug
 
The viscosity index is the indicator of the rate at which the oil will thicken as the temp drops below 40C. Since all dino 5W-20's start with a lower 40C vis and have a higher VI (typically in the 150 range) they will be considerably lighter at temps down to well below freezing at least.

There are a couple operational viscosity calculators available.
I like the Wydman Viscosity calculator. You can Google it
 
Wow! Thanks Caterham. You're right, the 5w20 thickens astonishing. I'll have to study the viscosity index calculation as the bit of searching I did gave very confusing summaries. In any case, the Widman site is going to prove very educational ... thanks again.

I plotted RL 0w20 and 5w20 against comparable Mobil 1 then tried it again with 0w30 and 5w30. Results show viscosity change of RL 5w20 with cold temperature starts is not that stellar.

Doug

RL_M1_ViscosityPlot.jpg
 
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