Well the sensor is operating properly... I found this chart for resistance values, mine measured 240 ohms at what I presumed to be full hot on my 195 degree thermostat:
Thermostat quality
- Thread starter jstutz
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Originally Posted By: 440Magnum
Get a Mr. Gasket / Robertshaw balanced thermostat. The only one worth using, IMO.
They have a choke point in buying them. Jeg's and everyone else plays the same shell game with access to them with the end result cost+S&H. You're going to be paying $25+/- for one.
Get a Mr. Gasket / Robertshaw balanced thermostat. The only one worth using, IMO.
They have a choke point in buying them. Jeg's and everyone else plays the same shell game with access to them with the end result cost+S&H. You're going to be paying $25+/- for one.
1
Originally Posted By: Gary Allan
Originally Posted By: 440Magnum
Get a Mr. Gasket / Robertshaw balanced thermostat. The only one worth using, IMO.
They have a choke point in buying them. Jeg's and everyone else plays the same shell game with access to them with the end result cost+S&H. You're going to be paying $25+/- for one.
Today's receipt from Summit for a Robertshaw + gasket + S&H:
Purchased items
Part Subtotal $13.20
Order Subtotal $18.15
Total Charges $18.15
Worth EVERY penny, even if it really were $25. The only thermostat I'll ever use unless nothing else is available. FWIW, they're usually on the shelf in my local speed shop and even (in Chevy 350 size, sometimes more) on the "performance" aisle at my local Pep Boys. I ordered because I wanted a 160 degree version.
Originally Posted By: 440Magnum
Get a Mr. Gasket / Robertshaw balanced thermostat. The only one worth using, IMO.
They have a choke point in buying them. Jeg's and everyone else plays the same shell game with access to them with the end result cost+S&H. You're going to be paying $25+/- for one.
Today's receipt from Summit for a Robertshaw + gasket + S&H:
Purchased items
Part Subtotal $13.20
Order Subtotal $18.15
Total Charges $18.15
Worth EVERY penny, even if it really were $25. The only thermostat I'll ever use unless nothing else is available. FWIW, they're usually on the shelf in my local speed shop and even (in Chevy 350 size, sometimes more) on the "performance" aisle at my local Pep Boys. I ordered because I wanted a 160 degree version.
Well, I have to officially withdraw my recommendation of Mr Gasket Robertshaw-style thermostats. They're now made in China, and I didn't even install the one I ordered. Its still the same Robertshaw balanced type design, but the build has been cheapened. It feels light and flimsy, and the edges aren't smooth- just typical China-built junk :-( It feels like if you squeezed it hard enough it would wad up like aluminum foil
Another great design ruined by offshoring. I don't know if Robershaw still makes any in North America or not, I suspect they sold the whole design to Mr. Gasket.
I bought a Stant today instead.
Another great design ruined by offshoring. I don't know if Robershaw still makes any in North America or not, I suspect they sold the whole design to Mr. Gasket.
I bought a Stant today instead.
There are several reasons why a thermostat may be defective. Had a '87 Chevy Sprint with a thermostat staying open. Bought a Stant thermostat and it stayed opened. Returned the thermostat and saw a quarter of the thermostats for the same model had their springs pushed in causing, them to stay open. Kids or whomever were either mishandling the thermostats and compressing the springs and could not get the spring to decompress. Refunded it and got one that was not mishandled.
I installed a FailSafe one from AutoZone on a 98 Honda CRV. Honda CRV forums warn not to buy aftermarket thermostats and only get from dealer. I think I may know why. The OEM one is spec'd at 172 degrees. When I called Pep Boys and Kragen. Their computers pointed to 180 degrees thermostats. It is only like less than 18 degrees Farenheit difference. Everyone in these forums were complaining their cars were running too hot. All of them if not, most used the 180 degrees thermostats. Both Pep Boys and Kragen said their computers spec'd OEM thermostats at 180 degrees and said the 170 degrees thermostats were too cold for my model Honda. I've been using the FailSafe 170 degrees thermostat for more than a year now with no problems or overheating. My temps are a spot on the middle indicator just like, I want it. I guess resistance plays a major part due, to someone's thermostat chart. I am just saying it may not be manufacturer's problem but, a mishandling problem or misinformation problem from the retailer also. Also, the FailSafe was actually $2 more than the OEM but, I couldn't wait any longer to drive the car. I couldn't wait for dealer to special order it for me.
I installed a FailSafe one from AutoZone on a 98 Honda CRV. Honda CRV forums warn not to buy aftermarket thermostats and only get from dealer. I think I may know why. The OEM one is spec'd at 172 degrees. When I called Pep Boys and Kragen. Their computers pointed to 180 degrees thermostats. It is only like less than 18 degrees Farenheit difference. Everyone in these forums were complaining their cars were running too hot. All of them if not, most used the 180 degrees thermostats. Both Pep Boys and Kragen said their computers spec'd OEM thermostats at 180 degrees and said the 170 degrees thermostats were too cold for my model Honda. I've been using the FailSafe 170 degrees thermostat for more than a year now with no problems or overheating. My temps are a spot on the middle indicator just like, I want it. I guess resistance plays a major part due, to someone's thermostat chart. I am just saying it may not be manufacturer's problem but, a mishandling problem or misinformation problem from the retailer also. Also, the FailSafe was actually $2 more than the OEM but, I couldn't wait any longer to drive the car. I couldn't wait for dealer to special order it for me.
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One more thing if, none of the thermostats are too your liking. Gates thermostats might be something to look into.
I buy OEM GM first,then NAPA Stant second,is the only thermos i'll use.
Originally Posted By: mechanicx
Well at least you were big enough to give us a heads up. SuperStants are excellent t-stat IMO. their pressure caps are good too.
Stant quality has always been great. The thing about the Robertshaw design is that its a completely different type design. It isn't affected by water flow (the flow doesn't tend to push it closed) so it regulates very precisely and isn't affected by RPM. It also has a huge cross-sectional area when open so it allows a lot of flow. Its by far the best way to build a thermostat- but if the quality sucks its no longer an advantage. I'm HUGELY disappointed in what Mr Gasket has done to a great design. :-(
Well at least you were big enough to give us a heads up. SuperStants are excellent t-stat IMO. their pressure caps are good too.
Stant quality has always been great. The thing about the Robertshaw design is that its a completely different type design. It isn't affected by water flow (the flow doesn't tend to push it closed) so it regulates very precisely and isn't affected by RPM. It also has a huge cross-sectional area when open so it allows a lot of flow. Its by far the best way to build a thermostat- but if the quality sucks its no longer an advantage. I'm HUGELY disappointed in what Mr Gasket has done to a great design. :-(
Well after getting the superstant for my blazer and being impressed by its look of quality, i bought one for my c1500 truck. The new one for the truck looks like the rest of the cheap stuff i have been buying. I took it back to napa and double checked the numbers because this one is clearly not the same quality of Tstat that i got for my blazer. It appears to be working, but im not going to hold my breath on how long it will last.
I mail ordered a SuperStant but the day before the replacement I lost it. I went to a parts store and asked the grey haired old fellow for a quality t-stat, then he went upstairs.
After a while he came with a dull brass gadget. Probably stocked for 20 something years, and he was looking as confident as a UFO lunatic. I tend to trust this guy, he wasn't selling UFO memorabilia but a t-stat. It was a Tridon, somewhat familiar I felt, resemblng the branding aesthetics of the earlier eras such as Dacron, Rayon. I'd rather Delco for GM but I didn't have the luxury for refusing.
It is much better than the original Delco. Car warms-up much faster than with the Delco while it was new, and once warmed-up the needle stability is rock like. Then I see that T-stat quality (or chance or quality control) differs.
Well I found the shiny Stant, the nickel plated. As an abstracted man it was on my right pocket without me knowing.
After a while he came with a dull brass gadget. Probably stocked for 20 something years, and he was looking as confident as a UFO lunatic. I tend to trust this guy, he wasn't selling UFO memorabilia but a t-stat. It was a Tridon, somewhat familiar I felt, resemblng the branding aesthetics of the earlier eras such as Dacron, Rayon. I'd rather Delco for GM but I didn't have the luxury for refusing.
It is much better than the original Delco. Car warms-up much faster than with the Delco while it was new, and once warmed-up the needle stability is rock like. Then I see that T-stat quality (or chance or quality control) differs.
Well I found the shiny Stant, the nickel plated. As an abstracted man it was on my right pocket without me knowing.
Well I guess Ive been lucky, I have maybe bought 10 t stats in a life time, maybe. Never got one that failed out of the box. I just go to who ever and buy one, thats it..........
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I've only had one bad out of the box, but I've had more cause to change failed thermostats in the past ......hmmmm ..12 years than I have had in the previous 20+ Other parts of the cooling system would require remedy before a thermostat ever failed for me. Now I've seen cooling system issues with stuck closed thermostats on other cars (lots in the 70's) ..but the newer failures were with them opening early or failing to close once open. I guess it would be a preferred failure mode, but the frequency has gone higher. I have to attribute it to quality control or just plain poor materials/work-machine-ship
Ive posted this before in another thread. Left is a Stant. Right is a Motorcraft. They are specified for the same application, same rating.
amazing, more spring in the fmc, ps,,I guess Ive lost more hoses then stats
Well, you were replacing the T-tat for a reason, so no wonder it works better now.
If the temp rating is what you need, you should b good to go.
If the temp rating is what you need, you should b good to go.
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