1999 Acura RL

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so over the weekend i sold my old nissan sports coupe and picked up a black on black, 1999 Acura RL w/ 3.5L V6 (C35A1). it has 120k mi on the clock and it's in really good shape.

anything i should look out for on this car? i know i need to peak at the timing belt. any other suggestions?

anyone else own one?

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They always remind me of a Mercedes Benz. Nice car m8.

Check PCV(if applicable)
Plugs & Wires,
Fuel Filter
Fluids etc. Anytime I buy used, I do everything fresh, gives me a piece of mind.
 
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thanks guys. i planned to do fresh oil, pcv, and plugs (no wire, coil packs). fluids and fuel filter will be added to the agenda.
 
I never examined the RL carefully enough to notice that it had a C engine through 2004. By 1999 Honda had a 3.5 liter J engine, but that RL generation went back to 1996.

How do the automatic transmissions on these hold up?
 
from what i could find they don't have many problems. definitely not like the second gen acura tl's (99-03). that was actually a deciding factor for me to go with the rl.
 
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Originally Posted By: buickmaster
thanks guys. i planned to do fresh oil, pcv, and plugs (no wire, coil packs). fluids and fuel filter will be added to the agenda.


Transmission fluid should be added to your list. Honda does not recommend a trans flush, ever. Drain & fill several times over a short period is the preferred method. Water pump along with T belt is smart along with any idler pullies (if there are any). Accessory drive belts are suspect and worth a very close look.
 
Does this have the same 5 speed that the TL starting in 1999 got? If so I would budget for replacing it.
 
nope it has a 4sp auto. these didn't get the junk tranny that the tl's got. that's why i didn't buy a tl. i didn't want to have to deal with those kind of issues.
 
Originally Posted By: Troy_Built


Honda does not recommend a trans flush, ever. .[/quote]


Why??? [/quote]

It's simply the easiest way to get people to use their OE fluid and to not use additive kits from flush suppliers. That's all it is. Flushing doesn't do any harm, they're just saying no so that people won't have an excuse to use the BG and Wynn's chemicals.
 
I have a 2001 Acura 3.5 RL, basically the same car as that, great car, the only problem I've had in the past five years is the main relay, the relay contacts develop resistance, create heat, and desolder themselves from the circuit board!

I'm an electronic technician, so I fixed the board myself, but the main relay only costs $50, so it's not too bad to replace the whole assembly....
 
Originally Posted By: TWS
I have a 2001 Acura 3.5 RL, basically the same car as that, great car, the only problem I've had in the past five years is the main relay, the relay contacts develop resistance, create heat, and desolder themselves from the circuit board!

I'm an electronic technician, so I fixed the board myself, but the main relay only costs $50, so it's not too bad to replace the whole assembly....


Had the same problem with my Integra. It's pretty common for most Honda vehicles to have this happen over time. I was able to use one that was made for a Honda Civic on my car.
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Originally Posted By: ThirdeYe
Originally Posted By: TWS
I have a 2001 Acura 3.5 RL, basically the same car as that, great car, the only problem I've had in the past five years is the main relay, the relay contacts develop resistance, create heat, and desolder themselves from the circuit board!

I'm an electronic technician, so I fixed the board myself, but the main relay only costs $50, so it's not too bad to replace the whole assembly....


Had the same problem with my Integra. It's pretty common for most Honda vehicles to have this happen over time. I was able to use one that was made for a Honda Civic on my car.
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common issue on late 80's and 90's honda/acura. problem is that the car will not turn on after being turned off. usually occurs in hot weather. i think acura may have resolved this issue in the later integras, well i hope so atleast. Mine is has been good....Knock on wood

my 88 civic did this.....i was so stupid that i went to buy a new battery. doh...and kragens(douchebags) tested my battery and lied to me that i needed a new battery.
 
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If you haven't done so already, crawl under and inspect the steering tie-rod boots, steering knuckle ball-joint covers, and other rubber thingies that will be 'thinking' of cracking after 11 years. (At that age, I doubt you'll find anything.)

Don't just 'peek' at the cam drive belts! As they age, they develop internal damage that is not necessarily visible. A belt can look good, yet still break, taking the valve train with it. Unless the prior owner has maintenance records, assume it's never been changed and do so immediately! I've never changed V6 belts, but assume it's not any more difficult that an I4. If you have the tools, inclination, and an afternoon to spare, you can save significant $.
 
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