looking for recommendations: Honda k24

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hey all. i must first say that this is probably the best, and most technically-oriented, forum i have stumbled across in my years of perusing the internet. you guys rock.

i own a 2005 accord 4cyl 5sp manual, with the Honda k24a. i currently have 15,xxx miles on it. i have been done three 5k OCIs with M1 5w30 and a ST7317/3593a.

most weekdays the car is unused, except for a few VERY short trips (0.5miles) which are unavoidable. on the weekends, it gets a 80mile trip one way, a few random average-length trips, and then another 80mile trip back. i usually drive in a manner that conserves gas, but once in a while i like to open it up.

after reading through many accord threads, k24 threads, and syn vs. dino threads, i still have a few remaining questions.

(1) when is it advantageous to use 5w30, instead of the OE-recommended 5w20? i have been using the 5w30 due to the common misconception that Honda only recommended this for CAFE, and that the 20w is too thin. i have seen two k24 UOAs, though one was for the revvier TSX, which is known to shear the oil. would like some more opinions on this.

(2) would it be practical (long-term) to use synthetic, versus a good dino like pennzoil? i intend to keep the 5k OCI, and realize that this is within the normal lifespan of a dino. however, i do plan on keeping this vehicle for well over 200k miles, and hope to keep the motor tip-top for its lifespan. wouldn't mind paying more for the syn if it does indeed provide more protection for my k24 in teh long-run. i guess something else to take into consideration is that, if the motor dies, there are plenty of the slightly used 160bhp k24's out on the market. the same motor (i think even with the same head) is on the element as well.

thanks in advance for your expertise.
 
i should add that after reading a few threads, i now intend to switch over to pennzoil 5w20 dino at 5k OCIs. i also plan to send a sample of my next drain to blackstone for their opinion as well.
 
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Please don't become another member that doesn't start their sentences with caps.

Back on topic:

If using Dino, go with 3k oci's. The stuff doesn't cost that much and your motor will last longer.

In case you haven't noticed, there is a war on this board between the 3k'ers and the neverchangers. If you're going to choose sides, now would be a good time to do it.
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Thanks for your advise.

So I take it that you feel 5k OCIs are too long for a dino oil, even though Honda recommends 10k OCIs on dino for "normal" usage?
 
Zee German Castrol Syntec 0-30 (summer 10-30) in my 2005 Accord. Mobil 1 Oil filter, 5k oil changes.

You can run, you can hide by the power of Elves will get you.

Don't believe in 20 weights. 30 and 40 only. Car runs great.

Now come - cross over to the dark side. We have been waiting
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I dont think I need the 0w since its never colder than 30F where I'm at, even in the middle of the night in the depths of winter. Still having a hard time between the 5w20 and the 5w30 though.
 
quote:

" So I take it that you feel 5k OCIs are too long for a dino oil, even though Honda recommends 10k OCIs on dino for "normal" usage?"

________________________________________________________________

Yes
 
The Pennzoil 5w-20 or 5w30 dino will be fine in your Honda motor.

The belt driven motors are easier on the oil than the timing chain ones IMO. ( I have a chain (05 1.8l Toyota motor))

I think your motor is belt??
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I've run 5k on Castrol GTX and the UOA was good.

I'll have a 4-5k run on Pennzoil 5w30 soon.

We have seen Hondas turn in great UOAS with Dino.

Just change it 4-5k or every 6months which ever comes first and you'll be fine!
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Take care, bill
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PS:
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If Honda recomends that you can use dino for 10K intervals, don't you think it would be safe to run a full blooded synthetic during that timespan. Consider $15 for a normal oil change at Walmart with a Fram filter (see crap) and whatever dino product you would like to use. Three of those would get you 9000 miles down the road and $45 poorer. A single Mobil 1 EP change at Walmart would cost $35 and easily get you to the factory recommended 10K.

FYI, I have a K20 in my Acura and M1EP seems to work quite well. My car only sees below 6000-8300 rpms on the way to a race or when my truck is blocked in. Synthetic can easily handle your driving on 10K intervals.

My engine has a timing chain, I don't know about the K24. I would make an educated guess that it does because the designs are so close an they are from the same family.
 
Yes, the k24a4 (my accord engine) uses a timing chain. I also believe that all k-series uses chains, but I have not verified this yet.

The main reason why I am shying away from synthetic at this point is just due to the cost factor. I also change my own oil, and have still found it somewhat enjoyable through the years. I don't THINK that I need synthetic at this point because my engine only sees 5k+ RPM at most 4-5 times each week.

Thanks GoldenRod and Bill for your advice. It still seems, though, as if I'm getting some conflicting opinions. I take it this is somewhat normal at BITOG?
 
There are several factions here. Some swear by 3K dino changes, while other just never change their oil with synthetics. I believe that any self respecting full synthetic (or so the lable says) can easily go a manufacturers recomended interval. For an extra piece of mind, consider changing the filter at 5K intervals. This will give you that little bit of extra bonding time with the car.
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I'm going to do 5K changes, but that's just because my car is classified as a toy and I beat it like one.
 
quote:

It still seems, though, as if I'm getting some conflicting opinions. I take it this is somewhat normal at BITOG?

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like I said,

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Some of us like Syn and will spend the $$. So of us will not.
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Some will change their oil every 3k, some every 20k..

You'll find everything here.

But all of us are trying to get the most out of our cars. Most protection for the engine.

Just some do it a different way...
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In the end, everyone here is great! We all get it done!
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You'll have to decide whats best for your engine and pocketbook.

My goal is to make my cars last at least 300k and run well all the way to that number. And sadly I drive enough now that I'll see it with my current car in less than 10 years (more like 9)...

I've had so far a 260k and 225k and they both are still running great.

Quite a few others under 200k but some soon will be there.

All have been taken care of the same way since new (or new to me).

Take care, Bill
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Haha, thanks tamu man. Those K20a's sure are beasts. I'm looking to put a K20a head on my k24 sometime in the far future.
 
Seems like a war is erupting between the 3k'ers and the 5k'ers. I wish we could pull our resources together and establish victory over the synthetic neverchangers.
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oops, you beat me to the post, Bill. Again, thanks for taking the time to help out a newbie to oil.

I think I have tentatively concluded that I will run 5w30 dino on 4-5k intervals. The reason why I'm favoring the 30w over the 20w is because I'm afraid of the dilution effects from the short trips I take every once in a while (I also realized that I sometimes take unavoidable 0.2mile trips on the weekends. My gf's house is so close, it's a blessing and a curse at the same time.).

Thanks all. Keep up the great forum!
 
I personally would never willingly pour parafin wax into my engine. I also don't care too much for sulfer that is not there as an additive. I like synthetic because it is as close as I can get to perfection. Yes, I know there is still some impurities, but I like it much better. I buy monster cable for all my TVs even though I can't tell the difference from the off brand cables. It's just a habit.
 
I just did a quick search on parrafin, and it seems that people have had an issue in the past with Pennzoil and parrafin wax supposedly being in there oil? The conclusion, however, seems to be that it is just a misconception, and has been debunked. Thanks, though, for bringing that up. I'm learning something new each minute I'm here.

OTOH, is Halvoline more highly recommended than Pennzoil? I understand that both are great oils, but at this point I am indifferent and must choose one eventually.
 
Most people that are in love with Halvoline seem to love it for all the Moly. Moly isn't everything, but it's great to have. There is a very strong Havoline following here as I'm sure you've seen from searching.
 
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