Anti-seize?
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I've never had any issues with anything I've put anti-seize on. Spark plugs, lug nuts, chassis and suspension parts, aircraft engine parts, turbines, industrial machines...
They've never came loose, fallen off, fouled out, caused a code...
but what they have done is not been stuck, seized, broken, frozen...
Just my own experience. Have you had stuff fall apart that you've used anti-seize on?
They've never came loose, fallen off, fouled out, caused a code...
but what they have done is not been stuck, seized, broken, frozen...
Just my own experience. Have you had stuff fall apart that you've used anti-seize on?
Ive NEVER had any issues putting it on lug nuts,been doing it for over 20 years and not one problem ever,do it on big trucks too.
there's absolutely no worries no problems doing that.
there's absolutely no worries no problems doing that.
Originally Posted By: gofastman
I cant believe there are so many people putting anti seize on wheel lugs, thats really bad news, and it makes a darn mess!
So does twisting off a stud. I have never had one on my car twist off, but didn't like the way some of them came off. When I worked at the brake shop, we sold a bunch of studs and sometimes I got to instal them.
I cant believe there are so many people putting anti seize on wheel lugs, thats really bad news, and it makes a darn mess!
So does twisting off a stud. I have never had one on my car twist off, but didn't like the way some of them came off. When I worked at the brake shop, we sold a bunch of studs and sometimes I got to instal them.
for lugnuts, I put a dab on the stud and run a nut all the way down the stud and back out to coat the entire bolt.
In 17 years I've never ever had a broken stud or a lugnut that refused to come off.
Most people just don't understand when you tell them.
When I bought tires at walmart, they were putting anti-seize on wheel studs, and I was floored! Not even the regular tire shops do that. I was pretty impressed, enough to where I buy tires from only that walmart when I need 'em, although my wheels are all coated.
anti-seize is gravy to me..it goes on everything.
In 17 years I've never ever had a broken stud or a lugnut that refused to come off.
Most people just don't understand when you tell them.
When I bought tires at walmart, they were putting anti-seize on wheel studs, and I was floored! Not even the regular tire shops do that. I was pretty impressed, enough to where I buy tires from only that walmart when I need 'em, although my wheels are all coated.
anti-seize is gravy to me..it goes on everything.
I have NEVER seen a properly installed lug nut seize up.
MFGs use torque specs to get the proper amount of elastic deformation on a stud or bolt, by lubricating the threads you are effectivly tightening the [censored] out of the nut which will lead to broken, weakened or stretched fasteners
MFGs use torque specs to get the proper amount of elastic deformation on a stud or bolt, by lubricating the threads you are effectivly tightening the [censored] out of the nut which will lead to broken, weakened or stretched fasteners
Originally Posted By: gofastman
I have NEVER seen a properly installed lug nut seize up.
You haven been around large nuts then,, i see it all the time in my work,they drag and gall up over time with dirt and grit and eventually lead to need replacement of the stud.
with anti seize applied they last a loong before needing replacement.
I have NEVER seen a properly installed lug nut seize up.
You haven been around large nuts then,, i see it all the time in my work,they drag and gall up over time with dirt and grit and eventually lead to need replacement of the stud.
with anti seize applied they last a loong before needing replacement.
Kestas
Staff member
Originally Posted By: gofastman
I cant believe there are so many people putting anti seize on wheel lugs, thats really bad news, and it makes a darn mess!
I have NEVER seen a properly installed lug nut seize up.
I'm surprised to read such a statement from someone who lives in Minnesota. Usually it's the Californians that make these comments. Nearly everyone here up north has had bad experiences with dry lug nuts. Do you keep your cars a long time, or just own them through the warranty period?
I cant believe there are so many people putting anti seize on wheel lugs, thats really bad news, and it makes a darn mess!
I have NEVER seen a properly installed lug nut seize up.
I'm surprised to read such a statement from someone who lives in Minnesota. Usually it's the Californians that make these comments. Nearly everyone here up north has had bad experiences with dry lug nuts. Do you keep your cars a long time, or just own them through the warranty period?
"properly installed" or not over time like i stated above will happen,i do this all the time.
I coat the back of my alloy wheels so they don't get stuck to the disk or drum.
Originally Posted By: EricF
for lugnuts, I put a dab on the stud and run a nut all the way down the stud and back out to coat the entire bolt.
anti-seize is gravy to me..it goes on everything.
That's a good idea. I place a small dab on an old toothbrush, which allows me to use as little as possible so as not to slather it on.
I've found just a single dab on a toothbrush will coat probably 3-4 lugs.
I use it sparingly on everything. I'm a bit obsessed with using it, so it goes on pretty much everything. A small $3 tube of the gray permatex has lasted over two years and I'm still not even halfway through the tube. It is amazing stuff, and the copper seems to be even better.
In the past I've always torqued it to spec, but after reading here alot, I just started using 15-20% less torque.
for lugnuts, I put a dab on the stud and run a nut all the way down the stud and back out to coat the entire bolt.
anti-seize is gravy to me..it goes on everything.
That's a good idea. I place a small dab on an old toothbrush, which allows me to use as little as possible so as not to slather it on.
I've found just a single dab on a toothbrush will coat probably 3-4 lugs.
I use it sparingly on everything. I'm a bit obsessed with using it, so it goes on pretty much everything. A small $3 tube of the gray permatex has lasted over two years and I'm still not even halfway through the tube. It is amazing stuff, and the copper seems to be even better.
In the past I've always torqued it to spec, but after reading here alot, I just started using 15-20% less torque.
I've bought Never-Seez by the case of pint cans for the job for years...and Never-Seez nickel for high temperature studs (boiler superheater), Fel-Pro C5-A copper antiseize, MolyKote applied with a 2" paint brush on 6" diameter diesel engine tie rods, etc.
Most folks do it this way...if it's good to put a little on, it's better to put more on--the Moron Theory.
As addressed above, changing the conditions of any threaded part with a torque spec might be asking for trouble. The torque spec is determined by engineers considering the lube if any, the fastener material, the finish, the size, etc. We really don't care how tightly we twist a fastener (the torque), we actually care how firmly we clamp the parts together. Using the twisting force (torque) is just a convenient shorthand. Lubing the threads and seating surface of the fastener reduces the friction so there is more stretch before the specified twist is met. This might over-stretch the bolt. How much to reduce non-spec lube, like antiseize on lug nuts, is a guess...maybe 20% reduction is OK, maybe not enough?
Most folks do it this way...if it's good to put a little on, it's better to put more on--the Moron Theory.
As addressed above, changing the conditions of any threaded part with a torque spec might be asking for trouble. The torque spec is determined by engineers considering the lube if any, the fastener material, the finish, the size, etc. We really don't care how tightly we twist a fastener (the torque), we actually care how firmly we clamp the parts together. Using the twisting force (torque) is just a convenient shorthand. Lubing the threads and seating surface of the fastener reduces the friction so there is more stretch before the specified twist is met. This might over-stretch the bolt. How much to reduce non-spec lube, like antiseize on lug nuts, is a guess...maybe 20% reduction is OK, maybe not enough?
I use a touch of it on spark plug threads, or if I replace a part like shock absorbers. I keep my cars a very long time, and replace shocks more than once. I find if I throw some anti-seize on the bolt threads years later everything comes apart nice and easy, no cursing, torches, cheater bars, nut crackers, PB Blaster, nothing of the sort. Works good inside hoses. If you every have to take a hose off they come right off with a thin coat of anti-seize inside of them.
I use antiseize on anything that gets high heat or lots of moisture. On my motorbikes, all external bolts get antiseize if it comes off. And if I ever remove anything from my lawnmower, the bolt gets a light coat of antiseize before it goes back on. Recently did a brake pad replacement on my Accord, and used the stuff on the caliper bolts. I haven't used it on wheel studs, but it sounds like a good idea.
Vic
Vic
+1
I do tend to use Sil-glyde around the brakes.
I do tend to use Sil-glyde around the brakes.
Kestas
Staff member
Same here... anything with threads. Also ball joint and tie rod end mount holes. I keep my cars a long time and antiseize makes repair easy the second time around.
I just replaced the exhaust system on my 91 Marquis for the third time. The antiseize on the flange bolts allowed me to remove the old system without cutting.
I just replaced the exhaust system on my 91 Marquis for the third time. The antiseize on the flange bolts allowed me to remove the old system without cutting.
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