Castrol - 0W-30 (GC) - 8,500 mls - 07 Silverado

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I don't think it's the oil. In some cases switching to a synthetic oil on the first run you may see an increase in metal wear. There could be some cleaning from the GC. I would run GC again and sample at 5000 miles. Reason is this does happen on some engines when switching from dino oil to Amsoil. The first OCI because the oil is being extended you may see some cleaning and increase viscosity. The second run will give a better indication how the oil will perform.
 
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Does the engine have any noticable knok or rap when warm? Rod big end noise?
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update: I just check the insol at .3 so this may be some heavy cleanup - but still, a bit spooky ...
 
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Originally Posted By: Bill in Utah
Originally Posted By: Johnny

I was only trying to help also Bill. I'm going to log-off now, take two aspirin and enjoy the race at Daytona. Suggest you do the same


I never suggested that you are a koolaid drinker. It was more towards the members here who spew more than post.
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If you took my post was directed towards you, please accept my apology.

You are one of the treasures here!
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Bill

PS: NHRA drag racing, F1 and Indycar (what's left of it... I MISS CART) is the only thing that I'll watch for live racing.


Just wanted to post this in this thread since this is where all of the above was said.

Bill, everything is cool here, been a rough 24 hours and I was a little short with my words. I agree with you about the racing, but check out the racing section for the thread titled 24 Hours of Daytona. That's where I'm at right now watching some of the best road racing there is. I'm using my son's laptop to check in from time to time to make any update I think you guys might be interested.

You're a treasure also.
Johnny
 
While I wouldn't idle for 5 minutes, I don't think the idle time is the part of the equation that resulted in the higher numbers.
 
Both my son in law and bro in law have late model Silverados using synt. oil with 10,000 miles OCIs and seem to have no problems at all. True many GM V8s show some high wear metals with UOAs. but that doesn't reflect the fact these engines attain very good longivity. UOAs showing these kind of wear numbers may not mean much in the real world the engines actually run in.
 
So, Wes, how about taking a sample at 5,000 miles (but don't change the oil), and send it in to get some more feedback? If it's "off" again, you could go ahead and change the oil. If it shows good, you can probably go until the end of the OLM with it.
 
I think all concerned should send WES a buck or two in an envelope so he can do his next UOA. I'm interested in the next UOA and in for 2 bills if anyone else wants to join me, and if WES agrees?
 
Originally Posted By: Jason Adcock
So, Wes, how about taking a sample at 5,000 miles (but don't change the oil), and send it in to get some more feedback? If it's "off" again, you could go ahead and change the oil. If it shows good, you can probably go until the end of the OLM with it.


Yeah that seems like the best bet. Hopefully it won't take 3+ weeks this time.
 
I'll go counter convention here and say stick with it. I don't ever recommend a one shot deal on any oil. Fuel can surely aggravate wear markers.

Eliminate one factor at a time. First I'd ditch the remote starting or seriously cut back on the time you have it running before driving it. Do another 8500 if you want to.

There's no reason for any oil to fatigue in 3 months time. For 8500 miles to be done in that time span, this has to be in the sweat spot more than it's out of it. You're introducing some antagonist and I'll gang tackle you with it being the high fuel state of the idling warm up.
 
Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
I think all concerned should send WES a buck or two in an envelope so he can do his next UOA. I'm interested in the next UOA and in for 2 bills if anyone else wants to join me, and if WES agrees?


I'll give him a few bucks. It's easy for me though, he sits in the next office over from me...
 
I'm with Gary and Jason. Sample at 5K, and base the next step on that sample. Also, double up and send in a virgin sample with it (from the same batch if possible). That gives you the best "snapshot" both taken with Blackstone's "camera" so you can make an apples to apples evaluation.

Either way, IMO, reduce your idling (me, I would eliminate it... better a block heater on a timer).

Odd report (at least for this untrained observer). The lead was fairly high. So was the viscosity, but the insolubles were normal. High viscosity-low insolubles... usually a thickened oil has high insolubles, doesn't it?
 
I have not read the entire thread, but I don't think it's possible that switching oil brands will make a significant difference for you. While it's true that some oil/engine combination yield better results, GC won't harm any engine, performs great in many and "better results" doesn't account for your high lead numbers.

Hopefully your UOA will be an aboration, I'm sure it happens.
 
Both of my GM engines had high lead at one point.

1996 Buick Roadmaster 5.7L LT1 engine, lead as high as 32ppm with GC and a 5,568 mile OCI.
2001 Pontiac Grand Prix 3.8L V6, lead as high as 21ppm with M1 and a 5,652 mile OCI.

Both dropped in to the single digits with a change in oil brand. All UOA's were done after more than one OC with the same oil so it wasn't just cleaning. The Roadmaster I changed to Rotella T 10W-30 and the GP I switched to Pennzoil Platinum. I was told that GC is old technology and was great 10 years ago and doesn't always handle some types of fuels if there is any dilution. Fuels have changed and they impact the oil differently than they did in the past. I'm no expert but that is what someone who is an expert told me. Following his recommendations I've seen noticable improvements in my UOA's.

Personally I'd stay away from oils with sodium as an additive since it can mask any potential coolant leaks. I think GTX has sodium in it, correct me if I'm wrong. I don't like to see high sodium in my UOA and wonder what it is.
 
Originally Posted By: WishIhadatruck
I was told that GC is old technology and was great 10 years ago and doesn't always handle some types of fuels if there is any dilution. Fuels have changed and they impact the oil differently than they did in the past. I'm no expert but that is what someone who is an expert told me. Following his recommendations I've seen noticable improvements in my UOA's.


Noone has brought a possible solution like this up yet, maybe some others will chime in and discuss this possibility.

I do like the fact that you have had GM's that have had "high lead at one point" (no offense). Hopefully this is my "one point".
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Originally Posted By: blackdiamond
I have not read the entire thread, but I don't think it's possible that switching oil brands will make a significant difference for you. While it's true that some oil/engine combination yield better results, GC won't harm any engine, performs great in many and "better results" doesn't account for your high lead numbers.

Hopefully your UOA will be an aboration, I'm sure it happens.


Hopefully it's a fluke, the next UOA will be in 2.5k more miles. Which will be 5k miles on this OCI of GC, and two months of driving.
 
Man, sorry bud, but no need for a remote start at -20/-40 F, its doing more harm than good.

It was -24 C over the weekend up here, and the Jeep started right up with Synthetic 10w30.
 
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