Post your internal engine pics

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This is a Mitsubishi 4M40 - the 2.8 diesel.I've never seen inside one to see what causes these marks on the bore,but they all have it.Even the new 4M41,that is the 3.2 direct injection common rail version.Their other small diesel the 2.5 4D56 doesn't do this.

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That one had done about 220,000km I think....it was apart because it swallowed a timing chain,can't remember why.We had the head off a 4M41 common rail with 140,000km and it had the same marks....every 4M40 has them.I have to see an engine totaled enough to get the pistons out and have a look.
 
These are of my '90 Q45 getting it's timing chain guides replaced in '03. It had 47K on the odometer then... I don't have complete oil change records for it up to that point - probably dealer bulk with Nissan filters, but I've been running M1 and Nissan and more recently M1 filters after my supply of 60U00 filters dried up.

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1999 2.2l Chevy S10 with 105k miles at the time of the picture. I bought it with 42k miles. I've no idea what the previous owner did, but since then I change the oil at around 4k miles. 30k with Shell Helix 10w40, 15k with Mobil Super S 10w40 and the rest with MC 10w30. They are all blends.
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I had to pull the head off my 1994 Mercedes C220,it was pumping oil into the coolant.The head gasket just fell apart,like it was rotten.There is also some pitting around the coolant passages - all the engine shops are shut until next week.

This engine has done 255,000km,and I have the full service history.First run on Shell Helix,and then Mobil,Mobil 1 3 times for 45,000km.Various viscosities..10/30,10/40,15/40 and 20/50.This is New Zealand new,so no EGR - check out how clean those inlet valves are.

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This was soon after I purchased the Regal. This picture is from 10/07. This image was taken when PP 1030 was in use.


The rest of the pictures are within this month (1/2010).
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The last pic shows it's fairly clean, but still not clean enough for me.
 
1991 BMW 730i (3.0 liter) run on dino oil for about 90k miles. This disassembly was to check the valve clearances and to add a crimp in the oiling tube center to prevent starving the front cam lobes when the flow rate is low (at idle) due to the engine being tilted back slightly. Those front lobes already showed moderate wear due to this issue.
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I thought I had posted this here, but it was my earlier repair where I just did the LIM to the GM 3400.


The hole on the right is the one with the blown HG, if the wetness didnt give it away.

The blown HG, this would be the block side.

You can click the images to bring you to that location in the album.
 
Onmo Eegusee,
This last Friday I weld repared both heads off a 3.4 like yours around the water ports on each end of both heads. Water had gotten under the head gasket around the the water ports and ate the alum away. I weld repair heads and such for an automotive machine shop on a part time basis as I am retired.
 
Yeah, you can barely see it, but there is a build-up about an 1/8" thick on the rust spot of coolant on the other head here.

It was not blown yet on this side, but the gasket was stressed and damaged, no telling how much longer it would have lasted.
 
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Taken a few days ago of a 10 year old Toyota Corolla 1.8L 7A-FE, travelled only 16,000 miles, was purchased from an 85 year old driver.

Colour of cam lobes is the under bonnet (deep blue) reflecting on the mirror surfaces.

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