I am going to use Auto-Rx on my 1999 Lexus RX300.

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One thing I have learned. I guess I cannot go by looking into the cap. Apparently that is normal due to the baffling system on the valve cover. Even the cleanest of engines will have that crud where you pour the oil in. I guess my only way of knowing is by the dipstick. Also c2po its all good :)
 
Originally Posted By: scottone928
Also c2po its all good :)


It's all good scottone928, we look forward to hearing about your results with arx.
 
Originally Posted By: Mystic
I don't mind you quoting me demarpaint. I am probably posting too much on all of this and getting too wordy but I do have a stake in all of this. I bought several bottles of Auto-RX myself. And actually we all have a stake in all of this if people are going to tell lies in posts or be secret promoters of products, etc.

I agree with you that people make incredible demands for proof that a product worked. Nobody is going to pull an engine apart before and after they test some engine cleaner. If they did that they might as well clean the engine right there-by hand.

Compression tests have gotten to be a lot harder to do on these newer engines with engine compartments so tight a person can hardly get their hand in anywhere. I don't own a decent compression tester anyway.

About the best a person can do is try to see into some areas of the engine if possible. In the case of an engine flush that is supposed to work a good test would be to use fresh clear oil for the flush along with the engine flush. It seems to me the oil should turn dark if the flush actually works in 20 minutes of engine idling.

Products like Auto-RX are slower cleaners but like you I believe I can tell a difference when an engine runs better. Some people attack anybody who says they can feel a difference in how their engine runs. Heck, whenever I change my engine oil the engine feels better. I can FEEL the difference. I guess those who like to attack people can attack me for saying that.

If somebody can pull a valve cover that would be interesting-seeing the before and after photographs.


Sounds like both of us are on the exact same page. I have a few bottles A-Rx myself.

Funny thing I noticed about engines and family members. I can always tell by looking and listening if something isn't right with the car, or if a person is getting sick or not feeling well. As far as the attacks, I can handle them too. No one is going to tell me its in my head when I know my engine is running better or worse by sound or how it feels when I'm driving it. JMO
 
Originally Posted By: Mystic
Well, you can clearly see into the engine and you can set that there is a lot of sludge. That car would be a good test for Auto-RX. Either it works or it does not work.


In those pics you cannot see down into the valve area, it is quite evident you are looking directly at a baffle with a small amount of sludge on it and a black, unsmooth painted coating on it, and some sludge on the cap as well, but not terribly bad.
 
Originally Posted By: scottone928
UPDATE: OIL HAS BEEN CHANGED WITH AUTO-RX. NEW PCV VALVE INSTALLED. MILEAGE:99520.

Let me tell you that the oil filter location is the worst I have ever changed out. The engineer who put it there should be shot! Well it's all been changed out. I will change out the oil filter around 100K. I will post pictures of stuff along the way. Here we go!!


I would leave the filter in for longer, I doubt it would plug up in 480 miles, if at all.
 
Originally Posted By: sprintman
OK. Rex 3 printing for instance added a single dose of 3 gallons of RX costing US$28,800 to their 6/colour Komori press and ran it for 300 hours.... In tough times companies don't spend $28,800 for nothing.


Must be "nuclear grade".
 
I find this thread very interesting. I recently started helping someone take care of their 2001 RX300. They had not changed oil for 18 months. Those were mostly short trips, with less than 5000 miles between oil changes. That baffle was baffling to me at first. I freaked because it seemed very cruddy. Then I understood it was the shape of the baffle and the design that caused all the crud to develop. I chose a different route. Pennzoil Platinum with 1 pint of MMO. Changed PCV. This is on a Lexus with 35,500 miles. I also put an over sized Mobil one filter since it came with the oil deal at Auto Zone. I also have one of those oil burning Saturn's which uses the same filter. I'm interesting in seeing your results. I wouldn't attempt to remove valve cover on the Lexus. It just seems too hard. If you're concerned about oil filter plugging you may want to consider an over sized filter. That's why I started using them on my Saturn due to using Auto-RX. I agree with the location of the filter. I bought some welder gloves at Harbor freight so I wouldn't burn myself when getting close to the manifold. Is your model be all-wheel-drive model? The one I take care of is. Right now I am more concerned about transmission failure. That is another issue they have. I hope you Lexus treat you well.
 
Originally Posted By: MONKEYMAN
I chose a different route. Pennzoil Platinum with 1 pint of MMO


The Pennzoil Platinum does seem to have some good cleaning abilities. JMO
 
I have a 2003 Sienna that has the 1MZ-FE motor.
I think that they used that same motor in some of the Lexus RX300's.
I decided to compare the oil filter that is used on my old Ford Windstar to the Sienna filter.
Turns out......they are identical, except the Windstar filter is longer......more filter media.......
Same gasket diameter and thickness, same thread.....same bypass presure range.

I posted a list of numbers for both versions in the oil filter section.......in case you might be interested in a longer version.
I just installed the longer version on my Sienna....fit very nicely.
You know the location.....front of motor....just under the exhaust manifold......lots of room.
 
Originally Posted By: wiswind
I have a 2003 Sienna that has the 1MZ-FE motor.
I think that they used that same motor in some of the Lexus RX300's.
I decided to compare the oil filter that is used on my old Ford Windstar to the Sienna filter.
Turns out......they are identical, except the Windstar filter is longer......more filter media.......
Same gasket diameter and thickness, same thread.....same bypass presure range.

I posted a list of numbers for both versions in the oil filter section.......in case you might be interested in a longer version.
I just installed the longer version on my Sienna....fit very nicely.
You know the location.....front of motor....just under the exhaust manifold......lots of room.



Interesting. I think I might look into that. What is the filter info? Could you give the specs on that Windstar so I can look up the filter? I was thinking about going with the K & N because of the nut on the front. This would aid taking the filter off. You are right about the location of the filter= front below the exhaust manifold. Terrible location for sure. Thanks for the info!
 
My Saturn and the Lexus uses the 3614 using a Fram reference. I have been using extended version which is 3600. Members at Saturnfansforums have posted the following longer filters that have the proper by pass settings. Here is what I have used:

Mobil 1 M1-209
Wix 51516 (using one in my Saturn right now)
Purolator Pure One PL20195

(You may want to double check these. I use them based on what others said worked. I have used them all without problems on my Saturn.)

Not knowing much about Toyota and Lexus parts, I went to get a filter at the Toyota dealer. Since they did not have Lexus part numbers I just got a filter for the 6-cylinder engine used in a Camry. They sold me a 90915-YZZG1 that is very heavy. Looks like a well built Purolator. At Lexus bought a 90915-YZZD1. It a Denso filter. Reason I mention these filters is they have a lot of media as I understand it. I will use them after a few changes with MMO and run synthetic oil and call it a day.

Also, if you have not changed the PCV yet, I found a 19 mm wrench with a ratcheting head worked best. My cheap Harbor Freight one worked fine.

I will not have problems removing the Mobil 1 filter. I bought a filter cap at O'Reilly's that fits it well. Not so fortunate with Toyota filters. They seem to need a custom (expensive) filter cap for a 3/8" drive ratchet.

Oh, I have also used the Motorcraft FL400s which is a long size filter. That may be the one used on the Windstar.
 
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Here is the list of filters that I posted in the oil filter forum.

2003 Sienna / 1996 3.8L Windstar
Bosch 72161 / 72143
Bosch Premium 3330 / 3422
WIX 51348 / 51516
ACDelco PF53 / PFL400A
Fram X2 XG3614 / XG3600
Mobil 1 M1-102 / M1-209
K&N HP-1002 / HP-2009
Purolator PL10241 or L10241 / PL20195 or L20195


WIX and Purolator list specifications on their websites.
I noticed that Purolator lists a slightly higher bypass valve pressure opening value than the WIX, in both the Windstar and Sienna versions.

I have the "filter cap" type filter wrench that you use on a 3/8" ratchet drive....works VERY nicely.
I bought it some years ago for another vehicle (it has fit the past 3 vehicles I have owned!)

I bought the expensive "special tool" funnel that has the 1/4 turn to go in the oil cap mounting.....
It is AST Tool # OFTOY1001 2009 list price $59.23
If you have the threaded (not 1/4 turn) oil cap the AST # OFTOY1038 2009 list price $27.50

There is a TSB that warns about bending the baffel under the fill cap when adding oil.

I put 2 bottles of AutoRX in on Sunday, using the WIX filter.

I had very slight stuff like in the picture above on top of the oil baffel at the oil fill point.
However there is NO varnish or any other deposit on the dipstick.
Vehicle had 5000 mile Oil and filter changes.

I just got this vehicle, and have been surfing the web, reading up on what I can.

On the subject of PCV valves......I see several styles listed for my 2003 Sienna.......I orded the metal one that threads into the valve cover.
There are others listed that mount into a grommet and have a 90 degree elbow at the top.
One website listed those for early year production.
I am thinking, for the 1MZ-FE motor, more flow (within reason) is better.
 
Quote:
noticed that Purolator lists a slightly higher bypass valve pressure opening value than the WIX, in both the Windstar and Sienna versions.


Purolator typically falls into something like 11-16 while WIX is almost always 8-11. I would speculate (an opinion) that Purolator uses this to achieve its somewhat higher efficiency rating over the life span of the filter. I tend to think that the holding capacities are similar.

The 3/4-16 thread filter has the most options for diameter/length than any other. Most gasket sizes are compatible too.
 
Originally Posted By: wiswind
Here is the list of filters that I posted in the oil filter forum.

2003 Sienna / 1996 3.8L Windstar
Bosch 72161 / 72143
Bosch Premium 3330 / 3422
WIX 51348 / 51516
ACDelco PF53 / PFL400A
Fram X2 XG3614 / XG3600
Mobil 1 M1-102 / M1-209
K&N HP-1002 / HP-2009
Purolator PL10241 or L10241 / PL20195 or L20195


WIX and Purolator list specifications on their websites.
I noticed that Purolator lists a slightly higher bypass valve pressure opening value than the WIX, in both the Windstar and Sienna versions.

I have the "filter cap" type filter wrench that you use on a 3/8" ratchet drive....works VERY nicely.
I bought it some years ago for another vehicle (it has fit the past 3 vehicles I have owned!)

I bought the expensive "special tool" funnel that has the 1/4 turn to go in the oil cap mounting.....
It is AST Tool # OFTOY1001 2009 list price $59.23
If you have the threaded (not 1/4 turn) oil cap the AST # OFTOY1038 2009 list price $27.50

There is a TSB that warns about bending the baffel under the fill cap when adding oil.

I put 2 bottles of AutoRX in on Sunday, using the WIX filter.

I had very slight stuff like in the picture above on top of the oil baffel at the oil fill point.
However there is NO varnish or any other deposit on the dipstick.
Vehicle had 5000 mile Oil and filter changes.

I just got this vehicle, and have been surfing the web, reading up on what I can.

On the subject of PCV valves......I see several styles listed for my 2003 Sienna.......I orded the metal one that threads into the valve cover.
There are others listed that mount into a grommet and have a 90 degree elbow at the top.
One website listed those for early year production.
I am thinking, for the 1MZ-FE motor, more flow (within reason) is better.


Why did you use two Auto-Rx bottles at the same time? You should only do one treatment at a time. Thanks for all the other info. Very helpful.
 
Originally Posted By: wiswind
Here is the list of filters that I posted in the oil filter forum.

2003 Sienna / 1996 3.8L Windstar
Bosch 72161 / 72143
Bosch Premium 3330 / 3422
WIX 51348 / 51516
ACDelco PF53 / PFL400A
Fram X2 XG3614 / XG3600
Mobil 1 M1-102 / M1-209
K&N HP-1002 / HP-2009
Purolator PL10241 or L10241 / PL20195 or L20195
Nice reference!

I bought the expensive "special tool" funnel that has the 1/4 turn to go in the oil cap mounting.....
It is AST Tool # OFTOY1001 2009 list price $59.23
If you have the threaded (not 1/4 turn) oil cap the AST # OFTOY1038 2009 list price $27.50
It seems like it should be Gold plated for that price. I just used a standard $1.00 funnel and took my time. It seemed to work fine.

However there is NO varnish or any other deposit on the dipstick.
Mine also. Very clean.

On the subject of PCV valves......I see several styles listed for my 2003 Sienna.......I orded the metal one that threads into the valve cover.
There are others listed that mount into a grommet and have a 90 degree elbow at the top.
One website listed those for early year production.
I am thinking, for the DMZ-FE motor, more flow (within reason) is better. I thought I could get a PCV at the Toyota dealership. I believe they used 2001 Avalon for a reference. It was red with 90 degree angle. When I located the one for the Lexus it was threaded. Now I will go to Lexus for some parts.
 
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