Brake Fluid when to change

[double vanos]

You've obviously never had your brake pedal go to the floor approaching Turn 12 at Road Atlanta...

Ha ha ha! That is so true! What you just said is the MAIN reason for brake flushes. Around here, that's a yearly exercise on 4 vehicles.

Cheers!

 

[SteveSRT8]

Likewise. On my street cars and trucks we still do an every year drain.

Some cars can be gravity bled, just open the bleeders and keep the master cylinder full. Super easy.

 

[Meo]

MityVac Fluid Extractor.

Place it on each wheel, pump it up, and open the bleeder.

Stand by the master cylinder and watch the fluid go down.

Add before the master goes dry, and tighten the bleeder.

Repeat at other 3 wheels.

Takes about 5 minutes per wheel.

End result = rock hard pedal.

 

[Ryan]

I have one of those, they definitely make the job easier, but my complaint with that pump is you constantly have to keep it pumped up, and the reservoir is tiny. I'm going to spend 120 bucks and buy the Mighty Vac one that is powered through an air compressor and has a huge reservoir.

 

[Craig in Canada]

Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
Likewise. On my street cars and trucks we still do an every year drain.

Some cars can be gravity bled, just open the bleeders and keep the master cylinder full. Super easy.


I know will be an issue of debate, but...

The thing is that with this method you are changing the fluid, but you aren't doing as good a job as you could removing bubbles and debris.

I saw a write up from a master technician at one point indicating why he found the "old way" to be the best way.

The shock of snapping the bleeders open and shut along with real pressure from someone stomping on the brake pedal dislodges bubbles and debris (hiding in nooks and crannies) out into the main stream of the fluid and out of the system. Ongoing comments from other DIYers went on to state that their brake pedals were always firmer when doing traditional bleeds instead of power bleeds. I can only imagine gravity bleed is even less effective for these factors.

A happy compromise is to power bleed until the fluid is changed, but finish with some traditional bleed at all four corners. Power bleeding is easier but I've read enough to not bother. Right now my fleet is only one vehicle, and it's an easy enough job for once per year. I also make sure to firmly tap all of the caliper cylinders with a rubber mallet before commencing.

 

[calvinnnnnnnnn]

use a pump to vacuum the fluid out-i believe this is the safest/efficient method

i do mine every 3 yrs as stated on my acura's owner manual(each company will vary)

i use prestone dot 3 in my cars...cant tell any difference

 

[crinkles]

i let the dealer do it...

 

[crinkles]

I cant get any tube to extract the BF from the reservoir. there seems to be a little cap inside the neck of the container that stops anything going in...

 

[jtfmdyk]

Quote:

As for ATE Super Blue, I'm not allowed to use it:

NOTE TO FLORIDA RESIDENTS ONLY: ATE Super Blue Racing Brake Fluid,
due to its blue color, cannot be registered in and is not DOT-approved
for street cars in Florida.


riiiight, I am going to flush that out of the S2000 right now. : )

 

[artificialist]

Don't use a vacuum brake bleeder on a GM ABS system! I did that once, and I had to tinker with the ABS module in order to get the brake system to work properly.

Later it was explained to me that those unique GM ABS modules have check valves that can be affected by vacuum brake bleeding.

 

[Craig in Canada]

Further to this, ABS systems are another reason to change fluid more often, especially if you DIY.

The ABS systems, accumulators, lines etc... all hold brake fluid. Dealers have diagnostic equipment which can operate these valves and pumps to purge these "stale" loops of fluid when they're flushed. Does your dealer actually bother to do this, or pocket the extra money in time saved? A lot of people don't know for sure.

If your dealer is of this persuasion, or you DIY and don't have this diagnostic computer at all, your ABS system only circulates when ABS is activated. For me this is virtually never.

If your vehicle's max interval is 3 years, and you DIY at 3 years, you haven't changed any fluid in the ABS loop. If you change at 1 year and your ABS activates from time to time, or you go out in slippery conditions specifically to activate it, all of your fluid is, on average, fresher even in the areas that almost never circulate in the ABS system. Everybody wins.

 

[Ryan]

I thought I heard that newer ABS systems will "operate" upon startup, meaning the pistons inside the ABS unit move around a little bit... reason being is because if someone goes for years without using the ABS, they have found the pistons to seize up. I wonder if someone can chime in on this. Not only that, but I think my 02 Olds Intrigue does this upon startup everyday, it is pretty loud too.

 

[lexus114]

I dont know if it`s true,but it certainly makes sense.

 

[gomes512]

I believe it is true at least for my '94 grand cherokee. the abs section mentioned some sort of "self test" the system does upon the first couple of feet of vehicle travel. I can always hear that quick buzz after throwing it in D.

Can't hear that in any of our newer cars, I'm assuming its probably more refined now a days.

 

[1 SX]

This is True.

My 94 SL2 with ABS you could hear it when you hit 5MPH, it did a self test.
There have been many cars i have drove, and if they have ABS, chances are, it does do a self test.

 

[chefwong]

With modern cars these days,at least on mine, you need either the dealer or one of those auto diagnostic computers to trigger the ABS module.

I do a traditional brake flush at least every 2 years but if time permits, I will flush brakes 1X a year. I do have a friend who hooks up his computer so the ABS will cycle ...


The problem with modern cars as well is with the technology in it, etc.....even when you replace a module, etc, you need dealer equipment to do certain things like bleeding certain equipment...like in the SMG transmissions