What carb cleaner for plastic carbs?

[PT1]

Ok, had my Toro snowblower carb rebuilt and could have avoided it if I can find a suitable fuel systems cleaner that is non solvent based to clean the carb. The Toro mechanic said that any solvent based cleaners will ruin the plastic & rubber parts in the carb. They use simple green & compressed air to clean them. (disassembled).

Does anyone have any ideas of what I can add to the fuel that will keep this carb clean?

 

[440Magnum]

Berryman used to sell a detergent-type "chem-dip" as an alternative to their B-9 (or whatever B-number it was) solvent chem-dip that had the floating oil skin to prevent evaporation of the solvents. I found that the detergent types didn't harm anything, but didn't really clean worth a hoot either.

Original-type (chlorinated) brake cleaner is safe for *most* plastics (after all, its the same chemical as dry-cleaning fluid which didn't hurt polyester leisure suits in the 70s

) but I'd advise using it very cautiously. Its not safe for every polymer.

 

[ARCOgraphite]

Since gas is a solvent, the ligheter fuel fractions should be OK. Find the polymer used in the carb construction, and look at a chem-E book chart which will tell you which solvent are compatible.

 

[millerbl00]

Try spray seafoam. It works great.

 

[hemitom]

i use walmart brand carb cleaner with no issue's. i usually spray well with the carb cleaner then dry it with compressed air.

 

[yeehaw1960]

A little Seafoam or any carb cleaner added to the gas in the tank a couple times a Summer/Winter (before you mow or blow through a tank of gas) will keep your carb gum free. Not leaving gas sit in the machine will help you avoid "gumming" things up during storage.

When it comes time to put your mower/blower away (if it's a Tecumseh), Loosen the bowl nut that holds the bowl on and let the gas run out into a container. After the tank is empty, remove the bowl nut and bowl. Dump out the bowl and wipe it out, then blow the gas out of the bowl nut. Reassemble and next season, your machine will run fine after adding fuel. Don't rely on just emptying the tank out. The gas in the bowl is what gums up and causes the problems. Stabil put into end of season gas will achieve the same purpose, but when you're talking about snowblowers, it might be two years before you use it again. Stabil isn't going to carry you through two or more years very well.

 

[Cmarti]

Seafoam or WD40, your mechanic is correct. 2 cycle carbs are especially sensitive as they use plastic check valves. My uncles dealership has used WD 40 for years when doing cleaning. Petroleum based gas additives like Seafoam or MMO are mild preventatives.

Good luck

 

[JTK]

Originally Posted By: yeehaw1960
Dump out the bowl and wipe it out, then blow the gas out of the bowl nut. Reassemble and next season, your machine will run fine after adding fuel. Don't rely on just emptying the tank out. The gas in the bowl is what gums up and causes the problems.


That's the cool thing about my the 7hp OHV Tecumseh on my snowblower. It's got one of those spring loaded 'push-button' drain valves on the bottom of the carb bowl. I add a few drops of Stabil, 2 cycle oil, Lucas UCL (what ever I have on hand) to the little bit of fuel in the tank, hold the drain until gas won't come out anymore, then prime, choke and pull start 'till it won't fire anymore. 10yrs and it hasn't failed me on this machine.

Joel

 

[yeehaw1960]

Those little drains try to kill me a few times a Winter. I'll have the 125,000 bullet heater about 10 feet away blowing at me and the patient on the coldest days. I'll reach under the carb bowl to initially feel for the bowl nut or reach under there to see if gas is leaking after a rebuild. I'll hit that little cock and lift my gas-soaked hand up to look at it with the big red glow of the heater in the background. Oooops!

 

[JTK]

Yeah, it's pretty well shielded on mine, but I too have bumped it a time or two when I didn't intend to gas up my hand/glove.

Joel

 

[artificialist]

BG products makes a throttle body cleaner just for engines which have plastic parts in them, I see no reason why it wouldn't work in a plastic carb.

However, it costs $20 per can.