Land Cruiser 80 - Diff and Trans oil suggestions?

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I just bought a 1997 Land Cruiser (80 Series) with 200k and I want to change all the fluids. AFAIK, the vehicle has always been run on dealer-fill bulk dino lubes.

-Engine: I will use Shell Rotella T 5W40

-Diffs: Calls for Hypoid gear oil API GL-5
-T case: Calls for Hypoid gear oil API GL-5
-Auto trans: Calls for ATF DEXRON®II


What would you guys suggest for the diffs, T case and trans? Should I stick with dino stuff or go with a nice synthetic? Is changing to synthetic after 13 years and 200k a bad idea. Leaks are not wlecome here
wink.gif

Cost isn't a concern, I just want to find the most suitable products.


Thanks
 
Ive done LOTS of MB diffs with synthetic well over 200k without issue. Our RWD previa diff also has syn at 220k without any leaks.

I'd go for Amsoil severe gear 75w-110 in the rear, 75w-90 in the front, and then pennzoil Dex VI or M1 ATF in the AT.
 
Originally Posted By: CourierDriver
see below


Yep, I did that which is how I know the specs :)

Just fishing for feedback on whether or not to move to synthetics.
 
Amsoil 75W110 is what I have on my 06 Highlander diff and x-case (speced for 80W90 GL5 oil). Good stuff, a bit pricey but who cares for a buck or two when the gear oil does only good to the diff and x-case.
 
Hello Ringmaster.

I have a Land Cruiser 80, too. There is a guy in Australia called Rodney, from Wholesale automatics. He's the biggest expert in Land Cruiser transmissions in the world. No doubt about that.

I've been in contact with him and he recommends fully (and make sure it's fully) Dexron III or higher fully synthetic ATF for these transmissions, specially Castrol Transmax Z and Allison Transynd. But Amsoil, Redline, etc... would be great too.

I've been going crazy trying to find such a fluid in Europe for a reasonable price (see posts below). I had Transmax Z, but it wasn't certified for Dexron III in Spain (it is in Australia), but I just recieved confirmation from Castrol that it is the same fluid worldwide, so I'll go straight to it.

By the way, Rodney also told me not to do drain an refills with Transmax Z, as that's a completely waste. Also doesnt' recommend the use of flushings machines, but a manual complete replacement. Search "Rodney flush" in ih8mud and you will find out.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubb...rue#Post1740912

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1736152#Post1736152

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubb...842#Post1713842

http://www.automatictransmission.com.au/news.asp
 
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Any gear oil will work well. I like Redline gear oils as my first choice. Amsoil would be my second choice. Mocbil-1 my third choice. After that I would group all the other synthetics together based on availablity and any sales like Motul,Total Quarts,Fuchs,Penrite,Neo,BG etc..........

If you wanted Dino Schaffers,Cenpeco,Swepco,LE are all very good with Schaffers and Swepco probably being he best two.

I am not a big fan of Royal Purple gear oils I found their performance to be less then what I paid for and not at all up to other synthetic brands!
 
Location is "North". So, for good flow, stick with full synthetics everywhere.

Front rear ends, any 75w90 will work well enough. If the vehicle is worked, then a 75w110 or 75w140 can be used. Pick your boutique brand... Mobil1 Amsoil Redline Castrol Pennzoil Royalpurple Neo Motul Pentosin Eneos Silkolene LubroMoly PX3 Synlube BG Alisyn...

On an older diff, if I don't want to go too thick with a 75w140, I usually just blend the 75w90 with the 75w140 at whatever ratio I want.

For the transfer case, any full synthetic ATF. Use the same in the PSF if it requires ATF. Maxlife is an easy choice here.
 
Switching to synthetic gear oil and ATF will not cause leaks, but given your high mileage, I suggest taking an extremely close look at all sealing surfaces since your truck has high mileage and many years on it.

Totally clean your drum brakes, and be 100% sure that not the tiniest drop of gear oil has entered the drum brake system. Gear oil + brake dust causes ugly clumps that can be seen easily. Also be sure your wheel cylinders are in perfect shape.

Flush your brake fluid if that hasn't been done recently. Use premium DOT4 for that.
 
Originally Posted By: unDummy
Location is "North". So, for good flow, stick with full synthetics everywhere.

Front rear ends, any 75w90 will work well enough. If the vehicle is worked, then a 75w110 or 75w140 can be used. Pick your boutique brand... Mobil1 Amsoil Redline Castrol Pennzoil Royalpurple Neo Motul Pentosin Eneos Silkolene LubroMoly PX3 Synlube BG Alisyn...

On an older diff, if I don't want to go too thick with a 75w140, I usually just blend the 75w90 with the 75w140 at whatever ratio I want.

For the transfer case, any full synthetic ATF. Use the same in the PSF if it requires ATF. Maxlife is an easy choice here.






-T case: Calls for Hypoid gear oil API GL-5
 
Sorry, misread original post. Somehow I saw T-case as ATF and didn't even notice auto trans. Gotta stop posting after 12hr shifts.
 
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