M1 5w-30 after 5000 miles in a 09 Silverado 5.3l

[downsized]

New poster here, but been lurking for a little while.
Time to panic? The previous analysis was of Pennzoil 5w-30 was about the same...
This truck isn't driven hard, but I am known to stomp it passing occasionally. Daily commuter driver, freeways on the weekends, no towing.
Thoughts and thanks!

 

[defektes]

ouch, I am curious to what this could be.

 

[JT1]

Sodium in PYB? No boron? 7ppm of Moly, this is no PYB I know of.

 

[Billy_D]

Run three OCI of 3000 miles or less with dino. Then send the oil for UOA. Don't panic just yet. The truck has only 15K miles.

 

[tomcat27]

I thought that some gm 8's do wear a little like that at first...

 

[pcfxer]

Go for the cheapest synthetic if you are tied to using a synthetic and run it for 3000-5000 miles again. That is high wear, but your truck is NEW! The 5.3L is built in the same style as an LSx so expect similar wear/break-in patterns.

Enjoy!

 

[addyguy]

GM V-8's take a long time to break in. Not time to panic yet.

But as Billy said, I'd do a few 3k runs on cheap dino to help the engine 'flush out' what it needs to......

 

[downsized]

Thanks guys. As of the last change I have switched to dino again and will change it sooner too. I'll check in later, hopefully with better numbers.
OK I know that this is a thin ice/can o' worms question, but in addition to dino use for a while are there any additives that may be beneficial at this juncture?

 

[Jim Allen]

I agree with the "no worries" comments above about break-in and such, but would add that you are never going to get as useful a UOA as you could by constantly changing brands. Stick with one long enough for some trending. Me, I don't see anything in that report that would dictate 3K intervals, but would stay at or below 5K. I'd suggest a very high efficiency oil filter (Amsoil, Royal Purple, Pure1, etc) to help clean things up.

 

[tig1]

This will improve as the miles add up. GM engines do throw a lot of wear metals at you. Be patient, and notice the other GM engines with high numbers, even the V6 engines, but you will still get many miles from your Chevy.

 

[Bill in Utah]

Originally Posted By: tig1
GM engines do throw a lot of wear metals at you. Be patient, and notice the other GM engines with high numbers, even the V6 engines, but you will still get many miles from your Chevy.

Yea, those GM motors have high numbers.

 

[Bill in Utah]

Originally Posted By: downsized
Thanks guys. As of the last change I have switched to dino again and will change it sooner too. I'll check in later, hopefully with better numbers.
OK I know that this is a thin ice/can o' worms question, but in addition to dino use for a while are there any additives that may be beneficial at this juncture?


Above is my UOA for my Silverado.

Just use a normal oil and NO ADDITIVES.

Just change the oil and follow the OLM. Around 25k run another UOA. I WOULD check your air cleaner and ducting for any leaks.

15k should NOT have that much SI.

Also your previous fill was NOT Pennzoil conventional. I'd say Mobil drive clean or 5000.

Take care and

 

[tig1]

Yes, some GM engines do show high wear numbers. As Doug has mentioned many times, this doesn't always mean the engine is failing. Here is an example of that. Your engine is another example of high wear numbers for a GM engine, but I personally wouldn't worry too much about it. Like the piston slap issue with GM engines that doesn't seem to shorten engine life, just annoying. Here is an example.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1706092#Post1706092

 

[downsized]

Why do y'all say not Pennzoil in the previous? I did it myself and as best I recollect it was out of a yellow plactic gallon jug...


Ooooh- edit- I think that was the change that the dealer did maybe....dang early onset alzheimers...


FWIW I did switch,based on sale price, to Valvoline dino for the last change. Guess I should stick with that for a few, huh?

 

[tig1]

I think it's best to find a quality oil and stick with it.IMMHO.

 

[Bill in Utah]

Originally Posted By: downsized
Why do y'all say not Pennzoil in the previous? I did it myself and as best I recollect it was out of a yellow plactic gallon jug...


Ooooh- edit- I think that was the change that the dealer did maybe....dang early onset alzheimers...


FWIW I did switch,based on sale price, to Valvoline dino for the last change. Guess I should stick with that for a few, huh?


It does not matter. (the oil companies will disagree)

I switched many times with my Silverado and you can see the results in the UOA above.

The reason why we all are saying the UOA is NOT Pennzoil is that they do NOT use sodium for a additive like Castrol, Mobil and Valvoline.

A LOT of stealerships use Mobil bulk oil which along with their Mobil 5000 is Mobil's best offering for value vs performance. Both DO have sodium for a add.

Using those oils will make finding coolant leaks harder via a UOA. It took 3 oil changes before I got all the sodium out of the engine. It is not a issue except for the UOAs.

Take care, bill

 

[addyguy]

Bill,

You're engine had 46k miles on it, not 15k.

In general, GM V-8's DO chuck out more wear metal than other engines, especially early on. You got lucky with yours.

 

[Bill in Utah]

Originally Posted By: addyguy
Bill,

You're engine had 46k miles on it, not 15k.

In general, GM V-8's DO chuck out more wear metal than other engines, especially early on. You got lucky with yours.

A lot of other members here are then lucky too I guess.

And 15k the engine is pretty well broken in.

 

[addyguy]

I'd argue a GM V-8 isn't quite...they seem to need a bit longer.

 

[Fulton 1]

FWIW, high Cu during break-in seems to be the norm for LSx engines based on my experience. I've had a couple show more than 150ppm in the first 10-12k miles. My LS2 has settled down now with close to 15k on the clock and the LS1, which looked similar to yours but with lower Pb numbers and Cu numbers up in the 200's I ended up building a stroker motor for, so no help there.