Recommendations for 06 Subaru Impreza 2.5i

[ArcticWolf]

Ripping straight from the sticky..

1. MY06 Subaru Impreza 2.5i 5MT with ~44k on the odo. Explicitness: NON TURBO

2. ILSAC GF-4, API SM Energy Conserving (recommended, likely cause subaru's fleet MPG is poor). 5w30 recommended, other grades mentioned are SAE 30, 40, 10W50, 20w40, 20w50. Severe service change interval is 3750 miles, normal is 7500.

3. Moorhead, MN (Fargo, ND) -40F or lower in the winter, 100 or more in the summer.

4. Typically drive easy, but I suspect my definition of "easy" falls into the hard and fast category.

5. I am currently doing pizza delivery, so a lot of short trips where (depending on how busy we are) the car may or may not still be warm from the last lap of town. Typical day is 75 miles of that. I also do autocross/rallycross/odd track days during the summer.

6. No known problems (knock on wood)

Car has, so far, seen Mobil 1 dyno (dealership fill out of a drum, stopped using that cause I can't buy spares, also burned off quite quickly), Amsoil Hi-Perf 5w30 (can't remember why I stopped, but this was before I was doing deliveries), currently running Castrol GTX dino (cheap and -was- everywhere, in the last month or two all of the local gas stations stopped carrying it.)

Fuzzy logic here being, if I can't pick up my Castrol without making a special trip anyway, might as well see if there's anything better for my usage. I'm not opposed to ordering online in bulk either.

As far as my preference in oils... I think from the above, its clear I put my car through a lot of abuse (or at least, hard conditions. I do try to be sympathetic to it, though.) I would rather it survive than have some small percent MPG increase. Synth or conventional, whichever does the job. I'll still be changing it at 3750, just for peace of mind, regardless of the type.

Thanks in advance.

 

[CourierDriver]

use 10/30 m 1

 

[bepperb]

10-30? Not in Fargo. And I wouldn't use M1 for a 3750 oil change on a naturally aspirated engine either. I think you'd be best off to use a 5-30, not necessarily for fuel economy but for ease of starting in winter. If you're going to change at 3750, I'd just use a normal conventional like Pennzoil or Mobil Clean 5000.

You could probably do the 7500 with relative ease on even the conventional, and perhaps using a synthetic oil will give you the peace of mind you're seeking in those short OCI's. Or maybe 5000 mile OCI, which is a bit easier to remember.

 

[ARCOgraphite]

Do you have a block and pan heater for the cold days? Its pretty much a MUST as you are at the cold flow limit of most oils. You have a dilemma of an engine which likes thick oil operating in an arctic cold environment. I think many here would recommend M1 0w-40. Me, I think its too thick when cold for extreme winter use. There is a Shell Rotella T5 0w-30 with a -51 pour point - check that out. IN the warm months, I'd like to see you running Shell Rotella T 10w-30. The 5w-40 is too thick for winter arctic use.

 

[MrWideTires]

Find GC 0W30 (castrol syntec 0w30 made in germany) at autozone and go 5000 miles.

-Cranks REALLY easily
-Subarus love the extra thickness at operating temperature
-Will protect it perfectly in your racing situations
-Group IV oil

 

[sangyup81]

If you want a 1 size fit all oil:
Castrol Syntec 0w30 (Made in Germany) or Mobil 1 0w40

Otherwise:
Winter: Castrol EDGE 5w30
Summer: Shell Rotella T6 5w40

 

[Rand]

I'd go for a 0w30 at least for your winter oil,
you could use a 5w30 for apr-nov and 0w30 for nov-apr.

Either find a 5qt+filter deal at autozone/AAP/o'reillys

or a 5qt jug at wal-mart.

m1 0w30 Advanced fuel economy would be a good choice and easily found.

 

[ARCOgraphite]

I dont have good cold start performance with my current fill of M1 AFE. Very Disappointed and thats at -10degC. Its not a "thin" 30w spec wise - and neither is GC.

 

[ArcticWolf]

RE: ARCOgraphite

No, no pan/block heater. Car is parked in an unheated garage overnight, though. Usually 10-20 degrees above outside ambient temps during the winter. I'll definitely have to look into getting one, though.

 

[ARCOgraphite]

Edge 5w-30 is a lot thinner than GC above 0 deg. and your sump prob wont get above 80c - so that may be a good rec. The -35degC mrv is 11K cP on the Edge. Optionallt, Q HP(ultimate durability) 5w-30 may be a good choice too - its 40degC vis is under 60cSt.

 

[sicko]

Non-turbo Subarus are very easy on oil, but it sounds like it's the cold flow, short trips, and idling that you have to worry about.

I've got M1 0w-30 in my non-turbo Subaru right now and it's going good. Though the lowest temp I've seen is probably around 10º and nothing near the -40 you mentioned.

Find out what other people around you use, your engine isn't hard on oil and everyone else has to deal with the cold temps as well (granted some people have heated garages or pan heaters), so ask people what they use.

Personally, if you're going synthetic, I'd use the cheapest 0w or 5w SM rated synthetic I could get, cause again the engine isn't rough on oil so you want something with good cold flow that protects any synthetic will handled 3750 mile OCIs with ease.

If you're going with conventional check out Pennzoil, Havoline, Valvoline, NAPA brand, etc. I had a non-turbo Subaru for over 9 years, I beat the [censored] out of that engine and put in whatever bulk oil that was available and it never had an oil related issue. If you've got a Walmart near you, check out Motorcraft semi-synthetic. It's a good oil, at an affordable price, and if I remember correctly it's got good cold flow temps too

 

[MrWideTires]

Originally Posted By: sangyup81
If you want a 1 size fit all oil:
Castrol Syntec 0w30 (Made in Germany) or Mobil 1 0w40

Otherwise:
Winter: Castrol EDGE 5w30
Summer: Shell Rotella T6 5w40


EXACTLY this, I could not say it any better.

For a Subaru, that is the perfect 1-size fits all and perfect winter and summer oils.

 

[Captain_Klink]

why exactly do subaru's "like" "heavy oils"? Is it because they are manufactured by Fuji Heavy Industries? and therefore it is logical that a heavy machine needs a "heavy oil".
In my Subaru, I run a light oil: 1.5l conventional 5w30, 2 l synthetic 5w30, 1 l conventional 5w20.
I've looked up Subaru and 5w20, and some people actually run 5w20 in their Subaru's, and Subaru's love thin oils: just check out this really neat site I found: it's called Bobistheoilguy.com!!!
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1049223&page=1

seems to me, you can run any oil you want in a Subaru, so long as it is normally aspirated. is there any evidence for otherwise, besides just that some person "said this, or that?" and it keeps getting repeated?

 

[Eddie]

5W30 is the prefered oil so use it. I used PP 5w30 in my 2000 Forester no turbo with 7,000 mile oil changes and UOA were very good. Sold the car running like new at 137,000. If you don't want the extr expense of PP, then use PYB and 4,000 mil OCI.

 

[MrWideTires]

Originally Posted By: Captain_Klink
why exactly do subaru's "like" "heavy oils"? Is it because they are manufactured by Fuji Heavy Industries? and therefore it is logical that a heavy machine needs a "heavy oil".
In my Subaru, I run a light oil: 1.5l conventional 5w30, 2 l synthetic 5w30, 1 l conventional 5w20.
I've looked up Subaru and 5w20, and some people actually run 5w20 in their Subaru's, and Subaru's love thin oils: just check out this really neat site I found: it's called Bobistheoilguy.com!!!
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1049223&page=1

seems to me, you can run any oil you want in a Subaru, so long as it is normally aspirated. is there any evidence for otherwise, besides just that some person "said this, or that?" and it keeps getting repeated?


my subarus have ran smoother with 0w40 and 5w40 and produced lower wear. (although most of them were turbo and driven VERY hard)

 

[WagonBoss]

Valvoline Maxlife is a robust oil that is not too hard on the pocketbook. 5w-30 and an oil pan heater for the winter should do fine. You might also want to look after your other fluids too. Engine oil is probably the least of your worries.

 

[ArcticWolf]

Well, getting a block heater installed on monday.

RE:WagonBoss,

I'm assuming you're talking about the transmission and rear diff fluids? I have Subaru's Extra-S in the transmission, and Amsoil Severe Gear 75w90 in the rear diff. I had the Amsoil in the transmission for awhile as well, but the synchros didn't want to work properly... oil was too slippery.

The Extra-S does, in the cold, take awhile to warm up.. usually a 3-4 miles before it shifts like it normally does in the warmer months. Last year it was also, at times, a bit of a slush box.. at least from what I could feel through the shifter.

 

[WagonBoss]

The gurus over at nasioc.com may have some solutions for the shared tranny/diff in your model. I don't remember anything specific, but I'm sure there are others that operate in that extreme cold that have found a good solution. Keep a check on the coolant that it will meet your temperatures. Power steering and brake fluids need checking too along with keeping a full tank of gas. My worry would be moisture in the fluids freezing, but then I'm a southerner and not experienced in your area.

 

[Norm Olt]

I've used 10W-30 for decades (well, almost...) in the SVX. Any good SM 5w-30 semi-synthetic ought to be good for 5K, an "on sale mit rebate" synthetic for 7,500, and an oil DESIGNED for extended drains should easily go 1 year and the 10-12K you seem to be accumulating.

It all depends upon how many times you wish to crawl under your car: that, and a little "FAITH"...

Cheers!

 

[bluesubie]

IMO, it would be a waste to change any synthetic at 3,750 intervals. GC would have no problem going to 7,500+ miles in your application.

-Dennis