Originally Posted By: mechanicx
On my own cars I finished tightening with a torque wrench.
I knew it....
On my own cars I finished tightening with a torque wrench.
I knew it....
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For all you wrench monkeys who use impact wrenches
- Thread starter chefwong
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Originally Posted By: highmilegeguy
In fairness to the tire shop guys, aluminum wheels are supposed to be tightened a second time after a week. But for safety sake and knowing no one will return to have the lug nuts secured, the shop guys will hammer them on tight.
Better to have them tight then have one spin off loose due to all the expansion and contraction of the aluminum wheels.
Not even possible...even the dealers don't torque it twice. Plus I have re-torqued many wheels and they take no more. I do hit each lug nut twice in a star pattern.
In fairness to the tire shop guys, aluminum wheels are supposed to be tightened a second time after a week. But for safety sake and knowing no one will return to have the lug nuts secured, the shop guys will hammer them on tight.
Better to have them tight then have one spin off loose due to all the expansion and contraction of the aluminum wheels.
Not even possible...even the dealers don't torque it twice. Plus I have re-torqued many wheels and they take no more. I do hit each lug nut twice in a star pattern.
I've never had a factory aluminum rim come loose after being torqued correctly. Factory aluminum rims are less reliable than factory steel because aluminum corrodes and leaks from being worked by steel tools, not because they loosen. From what I've heard aftermarket aluminum rims with the flat seat and washer need retorquing.
I checked and the manual said retighten ( retorque )lug nuts after 50 miles.
Because of the thermal qualities of aluminum and the possibility of torqueing on corrosion and such, you may achieve a lower or weaker torque than specified.
I know its a pain but thats what is recommended.
Because of the thermal qualities of aluminum and the possibility of torqueing on corrosion and such, you may achieve a lower or weaker torque than specified.
I know its a pain but thats what is recommended.
Originally Posted By: lipadj46
Never let a tire place rotate your tires unless you specifically tell/insist they use the proper torque value (I use 105 lbs as per my manual). They will torque them on so tight that you will never get them off if you have a flat. I needed to stand on the end of a 4 foot breaker bar to get my mother's toyota rav 4 tires off to do her brakes. Anywhoo I use a torque wrench with a 6 sided socket on all lug nuts especially ones with a soft cover or nice finish.
I had the same experience. Had a flat and the tire shop must have used 1000 ft Lbs on the impact wrench. I couldn't get the nuts loose with anything I had here in my garage. Some what angry I drove up to the shop and handed the manager my lug wrench and told him to try and get the lug nuts off. As he couldn't he jumped the mechanics to lower their torque. It always runs down hill.
Never let a tire place rotate your tires unless you specifically tell/insist they use the proper torque value (I use 105 lbs as per my manual). They will torque them on so tight that you will never get them off if you have a flat. I needed to stand on the end of a 4 foot breaker bar to get my mother's toyota rav 4 tires off to do her brakes. Anywhoo I use a torque wrench with a 6 sided socket on all lug nuts especially ones with a soft cover or nice finish.
I had the same experience. Had a flat and the tire shop must have used 1000 ft Lbs on the impact wrench. I couldn't get the nuts loose with anything I had here in my garage. Some what angry I drove up to the shop and handed the manager my lug wrench and told him to try and get the lug nuts off. As he couldn't he jumped the mechanics to lower their torque. It always runs down hill.
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Originally Posted By: highmilegeguy
I checked and the manual said retighten ( retorque )lug nuts after 50 miles.
Because of the thermal qualities of aluminum and the possibility of torqueing on corrosion and such, you may achieve a lower or weaker torque than specified.
I know its a pain but thats what is recommended.
I always re-torque after 100 miles or so. Quite often I will get a little movement. Not much - maybe an inch of rotation at the end of a 24" torque wrench, and not on all the lugs. But it does make me wonder what might happen if I didn't do it.
Agree with earlier poster as to the motivation of shops/dealers who hammer them on.
FWIW, I have a local independant who has trained most of his customers to back in after a week to get their wheels re-torqued. have to give him credit for trying to do it right.
I checked and the manual said retighten ( retorque )lug nuts after 50 miles.
Because of the thermal qualities of aluminum and the possibility of torqueing on corrosion and such, you may achieve a lower or weaker torque than specified.
I know its a pain but thats what is recommended.
I always re-torque after 100 miles or so. Quite often I will get a little movement. Not much - maybe an inch of rotation at the end of a 24" torque wrench, and not on all the lugs. But it does make me wonder what might happen if I didn't do it.
Agree with earlier poster as to the motivation of shops/dealers who hammer them on.
FWIW, I have a local independant who has trained most of his customers to back in after a week to get their wheels re-torqued. have to give him credit for trying to do it right.
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Originally Posted By: mechtech2
You think you don't get 'deflection' with an impact gun and socket?
Are you kidding? You'll get more with all that dancing around!
Gotta disagree this time mechtech2. Impact guns, when used properly, are VERY easy on the nuts, bolts, and studs they're being used on. You are FAR less likely to break a rusty stud trying to remove a nut from it with a properly sized impact wrench (don't use your lug impact on exhaust studs, of course). The reason is that the repeated sharp hammer blows take advantage of the mass of the stud itself. The socket hammers the nut and tries to turn it very quickly relative to the stud, and the stud's inertia helps prevent it from twisting. If you just put a breaker bar on there and gradually start increasing the torque, the stud sees the FULL torque you apply and will more likely break.
Likewise with tightening, the stud doesn't take all the twisting torque- its inertia moderates the force it has to see. Plus of course you NEVER run up to full torque with an impact- you just "snug" things and finish with a torque wrench.
Can you break studs with an impact wrench... sure, if you set the air pressure to max, grab the trigger, and have a cup of coffee. But don't do that!
You think you don't get 'deflection' with an impact gun and socket?
Are you kidding? You'll get more with all that dancing around!
Gotta disagree this time mechtech2. Impact guns, when used properly, are VERY easy on the nuts, bolts, and studs they're being used on. You are FAR less likely to break a rusty stud trying to remove a nut from it with a properly sized impact wrench (don't use your lug impact on exhaust studs, of course). The reason is that the repeated sharp hammer blows take advantage of the mass of the stud itself. The socket hammers the nut and tries to turn it very quickly relative to the stud, and the stud's inertia helps prevent it from twisting. If you just put a breaker bar on there and gradually start increasing the torque, the stud sees the FULL torque you apply and will more likely break.
Likewise with tightening, the stud doesn't take all the twisting torque- its inertia moderates the force it has to see. Plus of course you NEVER run up to full torque with an impact- you just "snug" things and finish with a torque wrench.
Can you break studs with an impact wrench... sure, if you set the air pressure to max, grab the trigger, and have a cup of coffee. But don't do that!
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You could crack the lug nuts loose with a big ratchet or breaker bar. Then use a speed wrench or air ratchet. Then install and hand torque.
If I had nice lug nuts I would not go near them with an impact wrench. If you take the car to a shop good luck......
If I had nice lug nuts I would not go near them with an impact wrench. If you take the car to a shop good luck......
Originally Posted By: oilboy123
You could crack the lug nuts loose with a big ratchet or breaker bar. Then use a speed wrench or air ratchet. Then install and hand torque.
If I had nice lug nuts I would not go near them with an impact wrench. If you take the car to a shop good luck......
I've NEVER had an issue with my chrome lugnuts and an impact wrench. Chrome is harder than an impact socket- another reason to use only impact sockets and not general-purpose sockets. They're strong, but not hard/brittle metal. The initial crack-loose is exactly the time you WANT to use the impact to reduce the risk of snapping a stud if the nut is seized for some reason.
You could crack the lug nuts loose with a big ratchet or breaker bar. Then use a speed wrench or air ratchet. Then install and hand torque.
If I had nice lug nuts I would not go near them with an impact wrench. If you take the car to a shop good luck......
I've NEVER had an issue with my chrome lugnuts and an impact wrench. Chrome is harder than an impact socket- another reason to use only impact sockets and not general-purpose sockets. They're strong, but not hard/brittle metal. The initial crack-loose is exactly the time you WANT to use the impact to reduce the risk of snapping a stud if the nut is seized for some reason.
Quote "I just had some bolts custom ceramic coated...for color purposes." Unquote OP
But as per above he mentioned he had snazy lug nuts.
But as per above he mentioned he had snazy lug nuts.
There are special sockets available that are lined in plastic
specifically for this .
Also most guys in the trade use torque sticks now.
specifically for this .
Also most guys in the trade use torque sticks now.
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