Freezers?

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We have a rather old freezer. It still keeps stuff cold, but runs and runs. I had a guy look at it a couple of months ago and he said all that was wrong with it was that it was too full and needed defrosted. So we defrosted it today. It has since run 1 1/2 hours empty and still not shut off. I say it is low on Freon, and if recharged could last for years yet.

Yes, I could replace it, but I understand much of the newer stuff is junk. Certainly the 2 year old Frigidor refrigerator we have is.

Opinions?
 
I bought a sears chest freezer about 2 years ago - seems just fine, I wouldnt classify it as junk. It runs well, quiet an efficient.

The question is if the new compressors are more efficient than the older one in yours.

Also, what is the cost to recharge the refrigerant? Nearly as much as a new one? Not as easy as doing a car, eh?
 
I doubt if it's low on refrigerant. Those used soldered connections, no seals anywhere to leak. Might have a bad cycling switch though.
Now is your chance to do what I did with a bum freezer.

1110092031.jpg
 
It might take a while to shut off, but if it is low on freon it'll ice up close to where the expansion device (usually a little copper tube) joins the evaporator (sometimes in the shelves, sometimes the inside walls). If it's over 15 years old it's probably R-12 freon (should be on the data plate), and unless it's REALLY old it probably has aluminum tubing in the system that can get porous over time. I've cut into the low side tubing by the compressor, evacuated w/a vacuum pump, & weighed in new freon (stick w/R-12 if possible, R-409A & MP-66 also will work-but if it's a consistent leaker it might be time for a new one.
 
freezer full of "down to temp" food - low or normal run times ( depending on location and ambient )

faulty door or seal - longer run times, excessive icing at gap/tear/etc

faulty insulation - longer run times, condensation on body or door/lid of freezer

short of gas - longer run times, only refrigerating part of the walls or shelves

worn comressor, usually valve plate - longer run times, noisey operation, especially at startup

hot location eg closed basement, laundry etc - longer run times, hotter skin or condensor, can lead to compressor failure

filling freezer with unfrozen product - longer run times with even but excessive frost build up. can run for 3-4 days struggling with excess load and can lead to compressor failure

HTH johnny
 
You didn't state whether it was a chest or upright. If you tipped it over to empty a chest freezer, sometimes the oil migrates and does some number on it.
 
If is 15 or 20 years old, buy a new one, the heat of compression is bleeding past the valves and u are pumping heat into the freon, and the unit is like we are when we are old, it will not perform the same when it was young, get a new one, sky, it aint rocket science...................
 
or, it could simply be the defroster is out, coils freeze up, run times increase to almost continuous.
 
Wouldn't hurt to get a freezer thermometer and check the temp.
I found mine was holding -10º and running a lot.
Turned it down to about 0 and at least it shuts off some.
 
I'd buy a new one if it's terribly old. We bought an ~18 cu ft upright Whirlpool last year. Energy star rated, holds tons of food, frost free and didn't notice it on the electric bill..and we keep it colder than normal.
 
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