Hi everyone, I would like your opinions on choosing an oil for my dad's 750Li with the new twin-turbo direct-injected V8. I did the first oil change with GC at 1500 miles and now it's time for its second change. I'm thinking of trying M1 0w40 since I have a bunch of it in my stash or possibly TDT 5w40, then switching to Redline 5w30. What do you guys think about running a non-BMW spec oil during warranty, bad idea? The car has two large oil coolers and temps stay steady around 220-240F. I have not seen them higher even during spirited runs (maybe 245 max). Although that's not as hot as the N54's seem to run, I'm thinking this engine beats on the oil just as much with the DI and subsequent fuel dilution.
2010 BMW 750 Oil Choice
- Thread starter ARH_0700
- Start date
- Status
Originally Posted By: ARH_0700
What do you guys think about running a non-BMW spec oil during warranty, bad idea?
Yes. It is a bad idea.
Use an ACEA A3/B4 oil; it may need C3 as well. It will need either a LL01 or LL04 rating; look in the owner's manual.
There's too much expensive stuff on that motor to put its' 50000 mile warranty in jeopardy.
Don't you get free oil changes for the first 50K miles?
Charlie
What do you guys think about running a non-BMW spec oil during warranty, bad idea?
Yes. It is a bad idea.
Use an ACEA A3/B4 oil; it may need C3 as well. It will need either a LL01 or LL04 rating; look in the owner's manual.
There's too much expensive stuff on that motor to put its' 50000 mile warranty in jeopardy.
Don't you get free oil changes for the first 50K miles?
Charlie
Trust the computer, people in Europe tell us their computer says the oil needs to be changed at 20-25K miles.
If you really want to change it anyways, use the type of specified in the owner's manual and document it somehow.
BMW, VW and Mercedes are pretty picky about what oils are used in their vehicles.
Charlie
If you really want to change it anyways, use the type of specified in the owner's manual and document it somehow.
BMW, VW and Mercedes are pretty picky about what oils are used in their vehicles.
Charlie
Originally Posted By: ARH_0700
Hi everyone, I would like your opinions on choosing an oil for my dad's 750Li with the new twin-turbo direct-injected V8. I did the first oil change with GC at 1500 miles and now it's time for its second change. I'm thinking of trying M1 0w40 since I have a bunch of it in my stash or possibly TDT 5w40, then switching to Redline 5w30. What do you guys think about running a non-BMW spec oil during warranty, bad idea? The car has two large oil coolers and temps stay steady around 220-240F. I have not seen them higher even during spirited runs (maybe 245 max). Although that's not as hot as the N54's seem to run, I'm thinking this engine beats on the oil just as much with the DI and subsequent fuel dilution.
You trusted the manufacturer to build you a car. You can probably trust them to recommend an oil.
Try not to switch oils around. Every time you switch, the new oil has to "clean up" the layers of protection left by the old one, and until it does the results are not always optimal. GC and Mobil 1 0w-40 are both excellent examples of BMW LL-01 oils. Pick one and stick with it.
Also, make sure you use Shell V-Power or BP gas (premium obviously).
Hi everyone, I would like your opinions on choosing an oil for my dad's 750Li with the new twin-turbo direct-injected V8. I did the first oil change with GC at 1500 miles and now it's time for its second change. I'm thinking of trying M1 0w40 since I have a bunch of it in my stash or possibly TDT 5w40, then switching to Redline 5w30. What do you guys think about running a non-BMW spec oil during warranty, bad idea? The car has two large oil coolers and temps stay steady around 220-240F. I have not seen them higher even during spirited runs (maybe 245 max). Although that's not as hot as the N54's seem to run, I'm thinking this engine beats on the oil just as much with the DI and subsequent fuel dilution.
You trusted the manufacturer to build you a car. You can probably trust them to recommend an oil.
Try not to switch oils around. Every time you switch, the new oil has to "clean up" the layers of protection left by the old one, and until it does the results are not always optimal. GC and Mobil 1 0w-40 are both excellent examples of BMW LL-01 oils. Pick one and stick with it.
Also, make sure you use Shell V-Power or BP gas (premium obviously).
Go with the computer's oil change recommendation, and use a BMW LL oil (such as M1 0W-40). Consult the manual on whether you need LL-01 or LL-04 spec. These cars are designed for extended OCI's, it's not your typical car, requiring a 5,000 mile OCI. Plus, it's a waste of oil.
The Mobil 1 0w-40 would be a good choice, it is A3/B3 and BMW LL-01 approved. It should be ok to at least 5000 miles. I used the Syntec GC during my 330Ci warranty. Do a OUA on your next change to see if you also have the DI fuel dilution as reported with the 335 engines.
Even without the turbos, my GC/BMW 5w-30 was pretty much depleted (TBN < 2) at about 5000 miles due to my short commute.
I am running Red Line 5w-40 for about 7500 miles now. My OUAs are posted.
The european 20-25K is kilometers not miles!
Even without the turbos, my GC/BMW 5w-30 was pretty much depleted (TBN < 2) at about 5000 miles due to my short commute.
I am running Red Line 5w-40 for about 7500 miles now. My OUAs are posted.
The european 20-25K is kilometers not miles!
Thanks everyone for all the advice! I guess this forum has made me a bit paranoid about these DI engines and all the talk about fuel dilution. I have a lot of M1 0w40 so I'll run that next and possibly do a UOA to see how it holds up at 5000 miles. If it holds up well I may consider 7500 miles next. And yes, I know about oil cost in Europe - I'm European and spend much time there. That's one of the reasons I am not afraid to do a few extra oil changes per year, it will not break the bank by any means 
The other reason is that the car is paid for, it is not leased, so it will remain in the family for a while and I want to take the best care of this very expensive engine.
The other reason is that the car is paid for, it is not leased, so it will remain in the family for a while and I want to take the best care of this very expensive engine.
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: ARH_0700
Thanks everyone for all the advice! I guess this forum has made me a bit paranoid about these DI engines and all the talk about fuel dilution. I have a lot of M1 0w40 so I'll run that next and possibly do a UOA to see how it holds up at 5000 miles. If it holds up well I may consider 7500 miles next. And yes, I know about oil cost in Europe - I'm European and spend much time there. That's one of the reasons I am not afraid to do a few extra oil changes per year, it will not break the bank by any means The other reason is that the car is paid for, it is not leased, so it will remain in the family for a while and I want to take the best care of this very expensive engine.
IMO you are smart to be concerned about intake deposits and you are smart to do a UOA when running M1 0W40. Don't just take it on authority form the manufacturer. BMW has now well known valve deposit problems in their DI engines despite owners maintaining them per the book. You are wise to educate yourself and don't just accept that the "manufacturer knows best". It simply is not accurate in terms of the oil requirements for these engines. THe engineers probably know better but for that to get through marketing, corporate politics, cultural barriers etc and down to the consumer, it is not happening. Ignorance is bliss for their customers. Here is some more information:
Originally Posted By: saaber1
Here is what happens when you simply take it on authority that the owners manual is correct. This U.S. 2.0FSI ran 502 approved M1 0W40 according to the manual, changing every 10k miles:
Here are some interesting related quotes from Terry Dyson re: the M1 0W40 use in a DI engine:
"reb03, the M1 0w40 should not be run longer than 1000 miles to be safe.. Audi and BMW know they are having problems but are marketing tied to certain LARGE oil company that sponsors BITOG thus they cannot speak out about it."
"reb03, I have customers running BMW5w30, M1 0w40 all with the same effect, the wear control is good if we change the oil at 1000 mile intervals but the deposit formation from REAL volatility issues are slowly damaging the engines. I just worked a 07 335 Biturbo yesterday USING ASTM lab tests on the used oil and M1 0w40 went from VOA flash of 430+F to 280 F in 1150 miles, oil sheared to 12.1 cSt and fuel was at 1.99% by IR."
Found in this thread:
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubb...1179#Post981179
a couple more pertinent threads:
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubb...346#Post1692346
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1702540&page=2
Thanks everyone for all the advice! I guess this forum has made me a bit paranoid about these DI engines and all the talk about fuel dilution. I have a lot of M1 0w40 so I'll run that next and possibly do a UOA to see how it holds up at 5000 miles. If it holds up well I may consider 7500 miles next. And yes, I know about oil cost in Europe - I'm European and spend much time there. That's one of the reasons I am not afraid to do a few extra oil changes per year, it will not break the bank by any means
The other reason is that the car is paid for, it is not leased, so it will remain in the family for a while and I want to take the best care of this very expensive engine.IMO you are smart to be concerned about intake deposits and you are smart to do a UOA when running M1 0W40. Don't just take it on authority form the manufacturer. BMW has now well known valve deposit problems in their DI engines despite owners maintaining them per the book. You are wise to educate yourself and don't just accept that the "manufacturer knows best". It simply is not accurate in terms of the oil requirements for these engines. THe engineers probably know better but for that to get through marketing, corporate politics, cultural barriers etc and down to the consumer, it is not happening. Ignorance is bliss for their customers. Here is some more information:
Originally Posted By: saaber1
Here is what happens when you simply take it on authority that the owners manual is correct. This U.S. 2.0FSI ran 502 approved M1 0W40 according to the manual, changing every 10k miles:
Here are some interesting related quotes from Terry Dyson re: the M1 0W40 use in a DI engine:
"reb03, the M1 0w40 should not be run longer than 1000 miles to be safe.. Audi and BMW know they are having problems but are marketing tied to certain LARGE oil company that sponsors BITOG thus they cannot speak out about it."
"reb03, I have customers running BMW5w30, M1 0w40 all with the same effect, the wear control is good if we change the oil at 1000 mile intervals but the deposit formation from REAL volatility issues are slowly damaging the engines. I just worked a 07 335 Biturbo yesterday USING ASTM lab tests on the used oil and M1 0w40 went from VOA flash of 430+F to 280 F in 1150 miles, oil sheared to 12.1 cSt and fuel was at 1.99% by IR."
Found in this thread:
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubb...1179#Post981179
a couple more pertinent threads:
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubb...346#Post1692346
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1702540&page=2
I would run BMW spec oil...and change it every 7500 miles...as per Mike Miller's recommendation as published in his "Old School Maintenance"...you can email for the guide...his email in every issue of Roundel
Originally Posted By: saaber1
Originally Posted By: ARH_0700
Thanks everyone for all the advice! I guess this forum has made me a bit paranoid about these DI engines and all the talk about fuel dilution. I have a lot of M1 0w40 so I'll run that next and possibly do a UOA to see how it holds up at 5000 miles. If it holds up well I may consider 7500 miles next. And yes, I know about oil cost in Europe - I'm European and spend much time there. That's one of the reasons I am not afraid to do a few extra oil changes per year, it will not break the bank by any means The other reason is that the car is paid for, it is not leased, so it will remain in the family for a while and I want to take the best care of this very expensive engine.
IMO you are smart to be concerned about intake deposits and you are smart to do a UOA when running M1 0W40. Don't just take it on authority form the manufacturer. BMW has now well known valve deposit problems in their DI engines despite owners maintaining them per the book. You are wise to educate yourself and don't just accept that the "manufacturer knows best". It simply is not accurate in terms of the oil requirements for these engines. THe engineers probably know better but for that to get through marketing, corporate politics, cultural barriers etc and down to the consumer, it is not happening. Ignorance is bliss for their customers. Here is some more information:
Originally Posted By: saaber1
Here is what happens when you simply take it on authority that the owners manual is correct. This U.S. 2.0FSI ran 502 approved M1 0W40 according to the manual, changing every 10k miles:
Here are some interesting related quotes from Terry Dyson re: the M1 0W40 use in a DI engine:
"reb03, the M1 0w40 should not be run longer than 1000 miles to be safe.. Audi and BMW know they are having problems but are marketing tied to certain LARGE oil company that sponsors BITOG thus they cannot speak out about it."
"reb03, I have customers running BMW5w30, M1 0w40 all with the same effect, the wear control is good if we change the oil at 1000 mile intervals but the deposit formation from REAL volatility issues are slowly damaging the engines. I just worked a 07 335 Biturbo yesterday USING ASTM lab tests on the used oil and M1 0w40 went from VOA flash of 430+F to 280 F in 1150 miles, oil sheared to 12.1 cSt and fuel was at 1.99% by IR."
Found in this thread:
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubb...1179#Post981179
a couple more pertinent threads:
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubb...346#Post1692346
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1702540&page=2
Very hard to believe that any modern engine would require an oil change at 1000 miles running M1 0W40 oil. A terrible engineering job, IMHO. I thought these intervals went out 60 years ago.
Originally Posted By: ARH_0700
Thanks everyone for all the advice! I guess this forum has made me a bit paranoid about these DI engines and all the talk about fuel dilution. I have a lot of M1 0w40 so I'll run that next and possibly do a UOA to see how it holds up at 5000 miles. If it holds up well I may consider 7500 miles next. And yes, I know about oil cost in Europe - I'm European and spend much time there. That's one of the reasons I am not afraid to do a few extra oil changes per year, it will not break the bank by any means
The other reason is that the car is paid for, it is not leased, so it will remain in the family for a while and I want to take the best care of this very expensive engine.IMO you are smart to be concerned about intake deposits and you are smart to do a UOA when running M1 0W40. Don't just take it on authority form the manufacturer. BMW has now well known valve deposit problems in their DI engines despite owners maintaining them per the book. You are wise to educate yourself and don't just accept that the "manufacturer knows best". It simply is not accurate in terms of the oil requirements for these engines. THe engineers probably know better but for that to get through marketing, corporate politics, cultural barriers etc and down to the consumer, it is not happening. Ignorance is bliss for their customers. Here is some more information:
Originally Posted By: saaber1
Here is what happens when you simply take it on authority that the owners manual is correct. This U.S. 2.0FSI ran 502 approved M1 0W40 according to the manual, changing every 10k miles:
Here are some interesting related quotes from Terry Dyson re: the M1 0W40 use in a DI engine:
"reb03, the M1 0w40 should not be run longer than 1000 miles to be safe.. Audi and BMW know they are having problems but are marketing tied to certain LARGE oil company that sponsors BITOG thus they cannot speak out about it."
"reb03, I have customers running BMW5w30, M1 0w40 all with the same effect, the wear control is good if we change the oil at 1000 mile intervals but the deposit formation from REAL volatility issues are slowly damaging the engines. I just worked a 07 335 Biturbo yesterday USING ASTM lab tests on the used oil and M1 0w40 went from VOA flash of 430+F to 280 F in 1150 miles, oil sheared to 12.1 cSt and fuel was at 1.99% by IR."
Found in this thread:
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubb...1179#Post981179
a couple more pertinent threads:
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubb...346#Post1692346
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1702540&page=2
Very hard to believe that any modern engine would require an oil change at 1000 miles running M1 0W40 oil. A terrible engineering job, IMHO. I thought these intervals went out 60 years ago.
Originally Posted By: 1999nick
Very hard to believe that any modern engine would require an oil change at 1000 miles running M1 0W40 oil. A terrible engineering job, IMHO. I thought these intervals went out 60 years ago.
BMW had previous to "Free Scheduled Maintenance" always recommended an oil change at 1500 miles...and then at 7500 mile intervals. I continue to follow BMW's recommendations previous to their "Free Scheduled Maintenance."
I do not see anywhere is this thread a suggestion for a 1 k OCI...I do see a reference to a 10 k OCI...maybe you misread??
Very hard to believe that any modern engine would require an oil change at 1000 miles running M1 0W40 oil. A terrible engineering job, IMHO. I thought these intervals went out 60 years ago.
BMW had previous to "Free Scheduled Maintenance" always recommended an oil change at 1500 miles...and then at 7500 mile intervals. I continue to follow BMW's recommendations previous to their "Free Scheduled Maintenance."
I do not see anywhere is this thread a suggestion for a 1 k OCI...I do see a reference to a 10 k OCI...maybe you misread??
Just to be clear, that is what Dyson said in that quote is safe to run when using m1 0w40 in the 335 turbo. That is not a recommendation from me. Although the vw/audi 2.0 FSI shows typical 502 oils such as m1 0w40 shearing very fast. Also the nasty valve photo above is of m1 0w40 changed every 10k according to the manual. For 2.0 FSI's that run over 95% highway, 502 oils seem to be doing o.k.
Originally Posted By: d00df00d
Originally Posted By: ideliver
I do not see anywhere is this thread a suggestion for a 1 k OCI...I do see a reference to a 10 k OCI...maybe you misread??
saaber1's post above.
hahaha...seem's that I misread
Originally Posted By: ideliver
I do not see anywhere is this thread a suggestion for a 1 k OCI...I do see a reference to a 10 k OCI...maybe you misread??
saaber1's post above.
hahaha...seem's that I misread
JHZR2
Staff member
Originally Posted By: ARH_0700
Yes we have the free oil changes but the onboard computer is very optimistic and I don't want to run any oil longer than 5000 miles let alone 15000 miles.
Given the BMW ownership, paying for additional service should not break the bank in the slightest.
recommendation? Pay the dealer and do an oil change every 5000 miles there. Get them to record the service in the key fob, manual, etc.
THis way, if anything ever does go awry, you have more than enough service, and if it just runs great and you go to sell it someday, original records and extra service will make it worth a premium.
Its not leased, is it?
Yes we have the free oil changes but the onboard computer is very optimistic and I don't want to run any oil longer than 5000 miles let alone 15000 miles.
Given the BMW ownership, paying for additional service should not break the bank in the slightest.
recommendation? Pay the dealer and do an oil change every 5000 miles there. Get them to record the service in the key fob, manual, etc.
THis way, if anything ever does go awry, you have more than enough service, and if it just runs great and you go to sell it someday, original records and extra service will make it worth a premium.
Its not leased, is it?
From what I have read, the fact that the engine has direct injection has more to do with all of that mess around the valves than what kind of oil it is using.
You have such an expensive car, just buy the BMW approved BMW oil from the BMW dealer, whatever they have for this car, it is simply not worth risking the warranty...
That being said...I would suggest you look into
Mobil 1 Delvac 5W-40 as well...
you may like it...my mechanic uses in his S-class Benz and swears by it!
That being said...I would suggest you look into
Mobil 1 Delvac 5W-40 as well...
you may like it...my mechanic uses in his S-class Benz and swears by it!
- Status
Similar threads
- Locked
