Oil for Tecumseh powered snowblower

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I've said before that I think GC is a perfect small-engine oil, summer and winter. Thicker 30wt viscosity; very shear-stable; 0W for easy pull-starts; high-detergent add-pack for clean running; and fairly easy to get (very easy up here).

Just my thoughts.....
 
Honda 9 HP commercial engine 28" 10 yrs old.

Amsoil 5W-30 HP

Starts very easy! Hardly any effort at all even when the temp is around 20*F.

My 0.2
 
The following is a copy of some post on a provious thread about snow blowers:

Look at the double circle donut on the back of the oil bottles. In-between the two circles does it say SL, or SM. SL is the good old oil that still had high enough Zinc level for air cooled engines. SM is the new oil with less Zinc so it will not damage Catalytic Converters. SM oils do not have enough Zinc for air cooled engines.

High performance oils and many mono-grade oils still have the SL in-between the double circle, and still have enough Zinc.

GC is probably the best oil made for a 4 cycle snow blower.

NO OIL is thin enough on cold start up.

Google search for "Motor Oil by AE HAAS" and read all of it.

It points out how ALL oils are too thick when cold.

The best thing you can do to increase the life of your 4 cycle snow-blower engine is to let it warm up before you increase the throttle and load on the engine.

JimPghPa



Reply to JimPghPa

I'm not jumping on here to pick on you, but I read a long very informative article awhile back ( I can't find it to link)but it pointed out that in engine wear that it was better to put a light load on the engine while warming up, compared to a idle only warm up. This was in automobile engines (maybe in fleet engines I forget) but I as you always baby my engines at start up... that article was very informative to me, and had information about wear etc ( not just a theory ). If I can find it I will post it. So what I do now I just operate a engine normal be it a lawn engine, car whatever. Even my Craftsman operators manual states to operate at full throttle to warm up engine.


Reply to reply:

You are probably right about light load for a cold engine. I just picture in my mind a snow-blower being used to dig into a side-walk or drive-way full of snow, at full throttle right after it is cold started. When you think about cold start, does it get much worse than an engine that is only used under load if it has snowed? Probably stored in an un-heated area to. Any kind of a warm up, idle or light load would probably be preferable compared to putting full load on a cold engine just after start up.


JimPghPa
 
It's not easy to get a single cylinder engine to run smoothly or even at all below 1000 rpm. At least, mine don't. I like to start my snow thrower engine at as low a throttle as it takes to keep it running. I let it run at that speed for a couple minutes while I shovel off the steps etc. Then I increase throttle a bit and engage the auger and drive systems just to put a small load on it and make sure everything is good to go. If all is working as intended, start throwing snow.

I think we are all a little bit anal about how we pamper these OPE engines. More so that we do our vehicles. In reality, they're pretty rugged pieces and will perform quite well with reasonable maintenance. I've found that in my experience, the engines last longer than the machines they're mounted on. I've had two Craftsman snow throwers with the old 10 h.p. Tecumseh Snow King engine on them. Both machines died from cracked welds, worn out fasteners, broken off chutes, worn auger bushings etc. Then engines were still running as good as new.

My latest snow thrower, an '06 Simplicity 9528 is much more robust than the Craftsman machines. I suspect that this machine will reverse the trend. It has a B&S Intek Snow engine with the aluminum bore. Considering the build quality of the Simplicity, chances are that I'll be re-powering this one.
 
As far as warm-u goes. A few minutes can't hurt. Just start off slower and warm up as you go.

As far as load goes...going slower is easier on everything and it does a better job anyways in the end.

I do feel most any 5W-30 synthetic will do fine.
 
Well that one mentioned a newer blower. I assumed that an older one might have different needs just like older engines in cars sometimes need special oils.

I know how to use the search function. I am not happy with the way it works though.
 
Well the 5w30 Mobil 1 SL I had worked like a charm. Started on the first pull for once.

Thanks for all your advice. I think the next time I will use Rotella 5w40 or some Syntec 0w30
 
Sorry Gunatics, that wasn't a shot directly at you.

I don't think snowblowers are particularly individualistic when it comes to oil. Some of the principles involved:

1) Cold, perhaps below freezing start temps
2) High load for most operating time.
3) Likely high moisture contamination from very cold intake temps ... and no air cleaner
4) Potentially long storage times between uses

I suppose some engines/applications could require a bit of fine tuning ... but I don't know an oil good for one brand of snowblower or snowblower engine but bad for another.
 
It has been my experiance with dipper lubricated engines to always starve the piston / cylinder upon startup. Never see too many rod failures. I suggest using a real THIN oil to allow fast oil splash. A 5w-20, 0w-20, or a 0w-30 full synthetic. I am trying GC 0w-30. And in the single digits, I was still able to pull by hand and start it. Although not easy. On the other hand, I was NOT able to pull start on 10w-30 regular non synthetic.
 
Originally Posted By: Fordiesel69
It has been my experiance with dipper lubricated engines to always starve the piston / cylinder upon startup. Never see too many rod failures. I suggest using a real THIN oil to allow fast oil splash. A 5w-20, 0w-20, or a 0w-30 full synthetic. I am trying GC 0w-30. And in the single digits, I was still able to pull by hand and start it. Although not easy. On the other hand, I was NOT able to pull start on 10w-30 regular non synthetic.


A couple of comment/questions on this:

1/ I've heard it said in an OPE forum (not sure if it was here or another one) that there's a reason manufacturers tell you in the manual to start at full speed (which I differentiate from "full throttle" because governors are usually involved). That reason is lubrication. Unless there's a short stint of full operating speed the oil isn't being splashed to places it needs to get to. This means that everyone who thinks they know better than the engine designers and slow start their machines at low idle may actually be doing more harm than good. Note that the point is for enough full speed engine operation on start to splash oil around. You can lower the engine to idle after this time as elapsed to warm up a little more.

2/ To play devil's advocate with your post above: I keep hearing people talking about pull starting relating to oil. In one breath you've said both that lubrication is performed by a little "dipper" and that the cylinder/piston is, if anything, under-oiled at the time of cold start. Where in these facts (as you present them) does the change from 0W30 to 10W30 make you unable to pull start it?

Based on the effect the weight has on pull starting, perhaps there's either more than a little dipper involved or there's more oil film left in the cylinder/piston area than you believe.

Personally, I would think that in all cases the compression of the engine should be harder to overcome than oil thickness when an oil pump isn't involved.
 
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The oil film plays a role in it as well as the cam gear and side bearings being somewhat submerged.

If you ever use engine assy grease on cranks, cams, and timing chains when rebuilding your engine, you will REALLY hear the starter work. I guess it is the same principle.
 
”Unless there's a short stint of full operating speed the oil isn't being splashed to places it needs to get to. This means that everyone who thinks they know better than the engine designers and slow start their machines at low idle may actually be doing more harm than good.”

Craig in Canada, That’s another good reason to use a top oil product like MMO, Lucas UCL or even some 2-stroke oil … and to put a squirt (no more than a teaspoon) in the spark plug hole and pull it over manually a few times before storage.

I used to start under full throttle, with the choke on, and run it this way for about 20-30 seconds before I’d idle down for a more thorough warm-up (1-2 minutes) before removing the choke and applying significant load on them. Many of the machines I ran (Dad’s snowblowers, wood splitter, etc …) would not run without stalling any other way. Haven’t really run any of these machines in a couple years … but all are still running strong despite the fact that Dad isn’t nearly as attentive (or should I say retentive?) to maintenance as I was.

As for effort on start-up, thinner oils and synthetics in the same grade make an enormous difference, probably for the reason Fordiesel69 stated.
 
Originally Posted By: Bror Jace
”Unless there's a short stint of full operating speed the oil isn't being splashed to places it needs to get to. This means that everyone who thinks they know better than the engine designers and slow start their machines at low idle may actually be doing more harm than good.”

Craig in Canada, That’s another good reason to use a top oil product like MMO, Lucas UCL or even some 2-stroke oil … and to put a squirt (no more than a teaspoon) in the spark plug hole and pull it over manually a few times before storage.


I've been using fogging oil at the time of storage and a puff before the first start. When I think of it during storage season I'll usually give the rope a pull and return it to approx TDC compression stroke again.

Quote:

I used to start under full throttle, with the choke on, and run it this way for about 20-30 seconds before I’d idle down for a more thorough warm-up (1-2 minutes) before removing the choke and applying significant load on them. Many of the machines I ran (Dad’s snowblowers, wood splitter, etc …) would not run without stalling any other way. Haven’t really run any of these machines in a couple years … but all are still running strong despite the fact that Dad isn’t nearly as attentive (or should I say retentive?) to maintenance as I was.


My EPA carb GCV140 powered Honda Masters mower has a one-control throttle/choke. I let it run choked only until it will run without it. Then I only let it run fast until it will run at idle, then I warm it up only long enough to fit the bag, check the height, tighten the knobs and off I go.

My GC160 powered Honda power washer has separate choke/throttle controls. It only stays choked until it'll run without, and gets a little idle after running at speed for a few seconds while I uncoil the hoses and hook everything up.

My 1986 Tecumseh HM80-powered Toro snowthrower has separate choke/throttle controls and usually gets started around mid-speed. Again, I click the choke off as soon as it can handle it, and usually spin it down to near idle for a bit of a warm up since it's a cold weather machine. I give it a lighter load for the first pass or two before chewing into the EOD. I do the EOD "first" after the equipment is warm for a couple of reasons: 1/ if something breaks on the machine, the last thing I want to shovel by hand is the EOD 2/ I usually go out onto the street and help anywhere from 2 to 9 neighbours clear their driveway before 3/ returning to my driveway full of nice, clean SALTLESS snow to flush all of the salt out of the machine before putting it back into the garage.

I know you know this, but one thing I keep in mind is the super-rich mixture while on choke. Rich mixtures increase fuel dilution in the oil, pollution and produce less heat than a leaner mixture. I find the machine warms up far faster getting it off choke as soon as possible. I judge how "ready" the machine is by checking the EGT with my hand.
 
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GC

FRESH GAS (probably the most important and most common overlooked). Open the lid and if it does not smell like gas don't expect it to give off the proper fumes required to get your motor to start.

FRESH PLUG PROPERLY SET



Put choke in off, pull twice.

Put choke on one click, pull twice, if no start then

Put choke on one more click, pull twice, if no start then

Put choke on one more click, pull twice, if no start then

Put choke on one more click, pull


By applying the choke gradually in steps from open to full you avoid the possibility of getting the plug wet. Once wet a plug will not fire (especially on a cold start in cold weather).
 
Mine has to be primed about three times and she will fire and keep running the first start. I start it on full choke, but immediately run it on half choke about 45% throttle. I let her warm up for about 4 minutes while I get my gloves on and the garage door cleared with a shovel.
 
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