CBR Valve Adjustment

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V1

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I own a 2004 CBR 1000RR. Honda recommends I adjust the valves every 16,000 miles. I'd like to know if it's a job I should do myself.

I've done a fair amount of work on cars, and also on this bike. I will have no problem removing the fairings, gas tank, the airbox, and radiator to get to the valve cover. My uncertainty will begin once I get under the valve cover.

I've never adjusted valves on any vehicle before, but I do understand the basic concept of how it works. My uncertainty consists mainly of how much room there is to work with, how to replace the shims, and how the crankshaft will be rotated.

I do have a workshop manual for the bike to help, and all the required tools. Also, I have all winter long think about this.

Is this a job I should attempt myself? Or better to leave it to my local mechanic, whom I trust, but will charge me $350 for the job. Thanks.
 
Very nice link, D-Tech. Thank you for that. It answered a lot of my questions. This actually looks like a job that I would be confident doing myself. Since I won't be doing any riding, I've got all winter long to think about it and take my time.

Here is another concern I have though: The engine needs to be cold to do this job correctly. Will it be too cold when the garage gets below 40F this winter?

Also, is "non-hardening" sealant the same thing as HondaBond?
 
More often than not with modern engines and modern oils, valve adjustment is not needed unless you have a habit of riding it hard.



I know my Yamaha has not moved a bit and I have gone through two valve adjustment checks.
 
Supposedly, CBR's almost never goes out of spec by the first 16,000. Thus many bikes get their first adjustment around 32,000 miles instead of 16k.

I will confess that I knowingly blew right thru the 16k mileston. My bike has 20k on it now. Could permanent damage happen from riding on out-of-spec valves? I'm not sure.
 
You can easily take the clearance readings yourself but doing the actual R&R of the shims is a different story.

Valve adjustment on DOHC engines might look easy on paper but, personally, unless you have substantial motorcycle mechanical skill, this is a job best done by professional mechanics. I have no reluctance to work on SOHC engines. They're easy by comparison. However, when it comes to removing cam chains, lifting cams etc. I'll feel much more confident knowing that a qualified mechanic had done the work. They have the right tools and are also familiar with little mechanical nuances that the untrained eye might be unaware of or overlook.

If you bring it in to a mechanic, make sure you have every confidence in the shop. Ask around about their mechanical workmanship. It's imperative to trust the man doing the work on your machine. Advise the mechanic/service manager that you want to know the clearance measurement before and after for each valve. Also advise them that you want to know what shims were replaced, what size came out and what size went in.

Sometimes it's wiser just to spend the money. It's not like the job is being done ever month or so. Unless of course, you do ride that much.
 
Originally Posted By: V1
Very nice link, D-Tech. Thank you for that. It answered a lot of my questions. This actually looks like a job that I would be confident doing myself. Since I won't be doing any riding, I've got all winter long to think about it and take my time.

Here is another concern I have though: The engine needs to be cold to do this job correctly. Will it be too cold when the garage gets below 40F this winter?

Also, is "non-hardening" sealant the same thing as HondaBond?


No problem bud, I have done a few adustments on DOHC bikes and quads. It really isn't as bad as it seems. The Hondabond should do the trick for you
 
Originally Posted By: boraticus

You can easily take the clearance readings yourself but doing the actual R&R of the shims is a different story.

Valve adjustment on DOHC engines might look easy on paper but, personally, unless you have substantial motorcycle mechanical skill, this is a job best done by professional mechanics. I have no reluctance to work on SOHC engines. They're easy by comparison. However, when it comes to removing cam chains, lifting cams etc. I'll feel much more confident knowing that a qualified mechanic had done the work. They have the right tools and are also familiar with little mechanical nuances that the untrained eye might be unaware of or overlook.

If you bring it in to a mechanic, make sure you have every confidence in the shop. Ask around about their mechanical workmanship. It's imperative to trust the man doing the work on your machine. Advise the mechanic/service manager that you want to know the clearance measurement before and after for each valve. Also advise them that you want to know what shims were replaced, what size came out and what size went in.

Sometimes it's wiser just to spend the money. It's not like the job is being done ever month or so. Unless of course, you do ride that much.


i couldnt agree more, I can open and close a motor up, but i dont do it daily, best trusted to a good mechanic. oil,spark plugs, coolant, tires, chain adjustments ect.. sure these are jobs for my garage. if it requires getting inside, I trust Paul.. my long term friend that works at the local dealer/shop.
 
Ace hardware has a good feeler gauge for under $10, much better than the ones I found at automotive shops.

On my SOHC dirtbike, it was my first time and it was pretty simple with some forum help and the factory manual, but on a DOHC I might have doubts. The check might not be all that bad, but what if you need to change the clearances? The write-up that was just posted is doable by me, but adjusting the clearances is a big unknown as I have seen several write-ups on several different bikes about checking and the hardest part about all that is getting to it. The actual checking is just lining up the marks and sticking in a feeler gauge.


I don't know how hard it would be to change out the shims, but on my dirtbike it was simple as loosening a nut with a wrench and turning the adjuster.


But, "remove the camshaft" and "don't allow the shims to fall in the crankcase" seems like it can easily set you up for disaster.

What I would do if I were you and adament about doing the job would be either to go into the job not expecting to adjust anything and just get a feel for it for future purposes and get you better acquainted with the bike while doing the other maintenance (coolant, plugs, etc) so it will not seem like a total waste.

-or-

Read as much as you can and if you have to adjust it, take months if you need to and everyday go out to the bike and study what you can see and look for all the fasteners and imagine how everything will go, then read some more and start a few threads asking the forum to hold your hand while you do this, but you might be above this. But thats how I approach critical tasks that have a high potential for failure and I've never attempted before.


As for myself, I started out on streetbikes (YZF600R) and did all the maintenance except for steering head and suspension greasing and the valve adjustment. It was a big unknown and I never had the confidence. Anyway, for some reason I got a ATV and tried and tried to trade it for a dirtbike and finally got one that was a square trade bike for ATV. Of course it would be fun to ride, but its a simple machine and before I ever rode it (sans the test ride) I did every maintenance task in the manual and cleaned the carb twice. It might not have been needed since the bike was barely ridden, but the bike was as much for learning maintenance as it was for riding. Its much easier to live with yourself if you make a mistake on a $1000 machine vs. $10000 sportbike. Plus, now that you know what you're doing you can take the manual and things are more likely to go in your favor.
 
Just remember. This isn't a lawn mower engine. It's a very sophisticated, high performance engine spinning at incredible rpms when on the gas. It wouldn't take much to turn it into a parts bin if even the slightest mistake was made. If you have the tools, the experience and confidence, go for it. If any one of those are missing, bring it to a good mechanic, pay your money and rest easy.
 
I have done this many times. If you try it I'd recommend you TAKE YOUR TIME and find someone who has done it before and have them help. Its not that hard but can easily become a nightmare if you mess something up.

I will agree with the others that most sportbikes hold there valve clearance very well but if just one goes tight it can ruin a perfectly good engine.

If you take it to a dealer check around and find a good one. Some dealers are a joke.

My current bike (Suzuki TL 1000) has gear driven cams on the top end so no chains to mess with. Makes it much easier when pulling the cams.
 
A job like this can be a great learning experience. Everything appears to be within my skill level, except maybe pulling out the cams. That is going to require some extra research before I delve into the engine. It's one of those things where you either take a reasonable chance at seeing, doing and learning, or cough up the scrill for a mechanic. If I do it, I will need some guidance along the way, especially from the folks around here.
 
On my Valkyrie with solid lifters and threaded adjusters, no sweat...

On the ZX-11D with shims I let a "Factory Trained" Kawasaki mechanic do the job.

I don't do automatic transmissions, either.

Just me. Just a couple of the jobs I don't attempt because they are done so infrequently I prefer to have an expert (who, supposedly knows what he is doing and will stand behind his work) do it for me.

Cheers! & Good Luck!
 
Originally Posted By: Norm Olt
On my Valkyrie with solid lifters and threaded adjusters, no sweat...

On the ZX-11D with shims I let a "Factory Trained" Kawasaki mechanic do the job.

I don't do automatic transmissions, either.

Just me. Just a couple of the jobs I don't attempt because they are done so infrequently I prefer to have an expert (who, supposedly knows what he is doing and will stand behind his work) do it for me.

Cheers! & Good Luck!


I agree 100% with your comments Norm. I too have no reservations adjusting sohc engines as on my Valkyrie and ATVs. However, when it comes to lifting the cams to replace shims on my dohc KLR, it goes int to the dealership where I know the mechanic.
 
The hardest part for a DIY'er using the threaded screw and locknut procedure for valves is to get the engine to TDC with both valves closed. Sometimes the engine is easy to rotate if the crankshaft has a nut on it, other times you have to bump the engine with the starter, or remove the spark plugs and even turn the rear wheel by hand. On scooters with no direct drive this is obviously impossible. The engine must be rotated in the correct direction, usually counterclockwise. Otherwise, tightening the locknut without the threaded adjuster moving also can be frustrating. Most manufacturers have special tools to access the threaded screw while tightening the nut. Torquing is cumbersome, as a crowsfoot wrench is needed to torque the locknut while holding the threaded screw.
 
I've seen examples where a piece of rod was welded to the side of a socket that fit the lock nut. The screw driver could then use the usual square attachment hole to access the screw. That would be sufficient to get the lock nut snug. They can be torqued more precisely thereafter with a wrench attachment rather than the socket.
 
Originally Posted By: boraticus
I've seen examples where a piece of rod was welded to the side of a socket that fit the lock nut. The screw driver could then use the usual square attachment hole to access the screw.


Very good idea. I'll get my welding buddy to rig me up a socket like that for doing my Honda's valves.
 
Originally Posted By: Steve S
Snapon makes a go/no go feeler gauge set it is well worth the extra you will pay for it.


Part # or link would be appreciated.
 
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