Audi S4 4.2L V8 - Lubro Moly vs Amsoil

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I im in Las Vegas, NV. I drive mostly short trips. My work commute is about 15-20 minutes. It does get about 5 miles of highway during that though. I regularly romp on it but I don't punch it from every light. These engines are known for fuel filution.
 
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There a lot of FSI UOA data out there. I would not limit my choices to one of your oils.

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I'd actually be more concerned about intake deposits than oil.

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My recommendation is any 15w-40 changed every 3k. Leave the filter in as long as you like.

I HIGHLY recommed this approach, with UOAs.

I'd probally run some Auto-Rx and do a serious intake cleaning too.
 
My engine is not FSI. I know it still suffers from the fuel dillution but I don't think it gets the intake deposits that bad.
 
I still like cheap HD oil, especially in your climate. Especially.

I just leave the belly pan off so changes are a breeze.
 
Audi Junkie has the right concept. You can handle the symptom a number of ways. If it's chronic (as in incurable) then you choose the cheapest way to cope with it while not compromising performance.

Just take everything into account. Your time, handling, disposal ..etc..etc. You can be exchanging one form of hassle for another.
 
Originally Posted By: Audi Junkie
I still like cheap HD oil, especially in your climate. Especially.

I just leave the belly pan off so changes are a breeze.


Cheap HD Oil?

Sorry, new here.
 
Dino isn't allowed in VAG engines anymore (hasn't been since 2000). A good HDEO for that motor would be RTS 5w40.
 
Originally Posted By: BobFout
Dino isn't allowed in VAG engines anymore (hasn't been since 2000). A good HDEO for that motor would be RTS 5w40.


Is that Rotella?
 
Originally Posted By: BobFout
Dino isn't allowed in VAG engines anymore (hasn't been since 2000). A good HDEO for that motor would be RTS 5w40.


Where can one get this oil?

Are those deposits due to FSI (direct injection) or oil problems?
 
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Are those deposits due to FSI (direct injection) or oil problems?


Both ..I guess. If it didn't have direct injection you would never see that level of build up due to the fuel wash. If the oil didn't volatilize all that junk ..you wouldn't see that much either.

It could probably be coped with by a reconfiguration of the crankcase vent system ..but one would think that they would have already thought of that.

For all we know it's "factored in" ..but it sure looks too ugly to be a planned thing. It may be a product of not adhering to the OEM interval ..which may be quite long. That is, each oil change would have a given % of volatility. We may be seeing a time compression of normal accumulation that would take a decade.
 
Originally Posted By: Gary Allan
Quote:
Are those deposits due to FSI (direct injection) or oil problems?


Both ..I guess. If it didn't have direct injection you would never see that level of build up due to the fuel wash. If the oil didn't volatilize all that junk ..you wouldn't see that much either.


Well, hopefull having traditional injection and by using some higher quality oil. I can help reduce that and maybe, over time, burn off what is already on there due to the cheap(er) stuff they pour at the dealer.
 
15w-40, not 5w-40.

Forget what's "Allowed", Rotella synth is not VW listed anyway.

Rotella, Delo or Delvac. HD oils are by far superior in wear control and the fuel dillution is controled by short drains.

Reducing consumption should be a primary goal and 15w-40 excels at that.

I guarantee results.



Funny to hear over and over how people want "the best oil", not "the oil that *works* best".
 
Well, I am still under CPO warranty. So, I guess there is something to be said for using VAG approved oils. Also, it is pretty cold here right now. So, I think I will try out the LM 5w40. It is readily available at the place I buy my parts online. They sell a nice kit with the filter for cheap that makes the oil about 6.80 a liter. I will go with 5000 mile drain intervals as this oil is supposed to have a base TBN of 10 or so.

As far as the valve deposits go, would something like the 3M complete kit help? It includes a spray to use pre throttle plate with the engine running.

3M Kit
 
Also, I use LC20 and FP Plus. I have not started the FP Plus on the car as I want to change the fuel filter first. But, I have been adding an ounce of LC20 every 1000 miles so far.
 
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