Which oil? 89 Mazda B2600i

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I have been running Castrol GTX HM last couple changes.
Also been running it in my 93 Taurus SHO.

In the truck I used to run mobil oil, the regular mobil.
With the cast the last oil change I went to 5w30 instead of the 10w30 I useually use. The 5w30 is what mazda recommends but it seems to smoke more on first start after sitting a while (valve guides are gone) The thinner oil I assume?

Ok this post is to do with what brand of oil should I use. I'm sticking with dino since both engines have over 100k. Truck has 166k and car had about 130k. My dad raised me up with him preferring Penzoil in his Fords and have seen good results from about anything but recycled or bulk oil as long as it it changed every 3,000.
I was wandering which is the best tried and proven oil.
I like protection and how well the engine will look when engine work comes due. Sludge, dark brown aluminum to red, and so on.
I haven't really ran any Havoline and don't know if I'm ready to switch yet. I know it's one of the preferred dino's on here from reading and seems Castrol not very little different, just some swear by it.
i'm not going to get into trying one of each and getting samples and haveing them tested, I was wanting other peoples results.
Price really doesn't bother me when it comes to oil.........................

Btw: I'm new here lol..............
 
The mitsubishi 2.6 in your truck has a rep for being a "different", funky motor. I forget if the valve seals have issues though.

I'd run a 15w40 HDEO (diesel/mixed fleet oil like rotella) in the truck if it doesn't bother you stocking two different weights. Before I fixed the valve seals on my saturn the thicker oil really helped the pep pulling away from traffic lights where I used to get clouds of smoke. Plus they're full of detergents and anti-wear goodies compared to light-duty passenger car oil.

The SHO sounds like it's doing fine on 10w30 though.
 
I don't think the 2600i is a Mistubishi engine. It is a fuel-injected engine with a timing chain, not belt.

I have had two of them and they ran great. I had one since new and put 80,000 miles on it. Kick myself daily for ever thinking of getting rid of it. Oil was changed often with a Mazda filter and it would stay clean (as in NEW oil) for 3,000 miles.

Sounds like the Mazda hasn't been treated fairly. I ran Pennzoil 10w30 in my 1990 Mazda and used Havoline in the 1992. I would use Havoline, Mobile Clean 5000 or Valvoline.

Try an engine flush with 1 quart of Marvel Mystery Oil substituted for a quart of oil for 1500 miles. Change it again in another 1500 miles.

At the 2nd oil change, dump in a 1/2 can of brake fluid. That will swell the seals and valve guides, reducing the smoking.

I think if you will spend $60 or so on some MMO and quick oil changes, you should be able to "revive" this engine. They are some great engines and trucks.
 
I've got a 93 2600i with 242K miles. I've had it since new and have run M1 5w30/10w30 from the start. The only major issue I've had is with a cracked head (coolant jacket) at 182K and a warped head (the new one dang it) at 195K due to busted coolant line and overheating. Moral of that story is change all your coolant hoses and never let it even get close to running hot.
 
I use 5w/30 Chevron in my 1991 b2200 because the 10w/30 Chevron gives me lifter noise. Ditto if I went thicker. I did get good results with RX the
engine as the B2200 seem to carbon up the rings.

Yours is the Mitsubishi engine and its in the Kia Sportage and Dodge Misubishi products if you are looking for other posts for ideas to push your motor past 200k.
 
Thooks, no the truck hasn't been treated fairly. It was used by my uncle to haul firewood, as high as he could stack it and drag a log out of the woods with him as he went.
He also pulled way more weight than ever should have tried, like a log truck for about 5 miles.
It has been a tough little truck though.

I'm gonna try your idea and see but I think it has more to do with the guides and not the seals. I changed the seals a year or so ago and all it did is make it smoke a little less. Worth a shot........

Audi_guy, Looks like your truck has done well and beeing one of the last true mazda truck, that's cool to know.
I have seen what heppens when the radiator hose falls off, I bought one cause it locked up.....

eljefino, I might try that when I change it this time and run it for 3000 and see what it does for it, then try the other idea.......

Not sure which way to go yet, if I do the flush I will do it with cheaper oil....................................
 
quote:

one of the last true mazda truck

Yeah. At the time I bought it the 94 rebadged Ford Ranger B2300 & B4000 trucks were out. I had to search high and low to find one of the few remaining real Mazda B2600i left.
 
Spun Bearing,

I hope you get it fixed. I sure would like to have my 1990 back in my garage with 80k miles on it.

Audi,

I'm pretty sure the B2600i engines are indeed Mazdas. I think the Carb'd 2600 that was in the 4x4's before the injected motor might have been Mistu engines.
 
I can't remember myself it's one way or the other.

The Rebadged ford ranger mazda's can't even compair to the dependability to the true mazda's, but that's fords fault lol.

Oh i'll get it fixed one way or the other. Shouldn't cost over $300 to get the head redone. Valves, valve guides, seals, spings, leveled and cleaned. Just can't decide to rebuild the engine or do a compression check and if all is well just do the head?
 
SB:

I have an 89 2600I also. (141k mi)

This past summer, I switched from dino 10w-30 to Supertech Full Synthetic 10W-30. It made a huge difference in the lifter tick and the operating temp. The lifter tick used to not go away until after several highway miles (especially if it set up for several days). Now it goes away before I can back out of my driveway! The temp guage used to point to 9:30 and now points to 8:30. Huge difference!

I never would have tried synth in a truck this old but the ticking drove me nuts. In the 5 qt jug, I pay about $2.44 per quart. With the ST oil filter it still costs less than most quick change shops. ($15-$16)

I also did an Auto-RX on this engine that brought the MPGs up and cleaned the engine out.

These trucks are tough as nails and are good, strong workers. I hope my experience helps you.
 
My neighbor has a late 80's B2600i w/over 300k on the clock. He picked it up from a guy that used it in courier service for 240k. He paid the guy $500 and has gone another 60k. Seems like they are great motors if his is typical.
 
JAYCEE, I don't have a tick yet. I have had it before but a quick sea foam treatment and haven't had a tick since. I think it's more due to sticky lifters or something when varnish builds up on them.

Have heard good stuff on the autorx stuff but haven't tried it yet. Alot of good stuff I have read on it and pictures. I might try a synthetic or a blend and see how it does, just scared of the oil burn at start up, I don't want consumption to increase. Shouldn't hurt to try it for a little bit, if it causes problems I can switch.
 
Anyone think i could try switching to synthetic in the SHO? Just curious and with those miles. It barely uses oil but with the miles it has, it has 133k?
Last I was under it, it does seem to have a leak either around the pan or the oil filter mount.

If I rebuild the Mazda or if it has to have a head job I think I may swap it over also, would be nice to just go out and get the same oil for both.

Basically, what would you do? The SHO needs an oil change in the next couple days, Gonna do the truck also so I can keep them both at the same time.
 
Forgot to read back, I'm thinking of maybe going with mobil clean 5000 in a 10w30 and do the steps to try revive the truck?
 
From what I have been told (by a couple of good mechanics) and read, using synthetic will clean and keep the engine clean of build-up.

I would run 10W30 in both, whether it be dino or synthetic.

If you are going to do a cleaning, with RX or MMO, I'd use Advance Auto $6 a gallon oil.

I think it's the Mobil High Mileage 7500 that has some special additives to help leaking seals.

I'll tell ya that I didn't have any leaks in my 95 Accord until I did the 2nd round of MMO cleaning in the crankcase. One of the seals behind the timing belt cover started leaking very slightly. But they are all replaced now, and I am rinsing out the MMO treatment and will go with Mobil 1 5W30 on the next OC. Yes, switching to M1 on a 10-1/2 year old car with 138k on the clock.

You are going to eventually have to have the head rebuilt on the Mazda. It's not going to hurt if you swtich to synthetic now or after.
 
Ok on the Mazda, I went to mobil site and gonna use the oil they suggest to run. 10w40 in either clean 5000, HM, or EP. Since the EP is close to $6 a qt I think i'm just gonna go with one of the first 2 or even though no mention of it, run the 7500 which is a blend. First 2 are dino.
Probly do a rinse with MMO first with cheap oil as said.

I switched the SHO to 5w30 Mobil drive clean 7500 synthetic blend, it's what the mobile site said to run. Well it basically said any oil type in 5w30 weight, but still worried about running full synthetic in it.
Car seems to perform a little better, odd but I guess thinner oil?
I also put a purolator filter on, after reading up they seem to be a great filter and for the price. Gonne run the same brand on the truck since they both have horizontal filter mounts, SHO is a little more angled but still not like a chevy.
 
Spun,

I think the reccomended oil for that 2600i is 5W30. I was warned against using 10W40 in mine from Mazda Factory Rep and Dealer Service Manager.

I ran Pennzoil in my first one and it stayed clean as could be. I ran Havoline in my 2nd.
 
quote:

I was warned against using 10W40 in mine from Mazda Factory Rep and Dealer Service Manager.

ooophs... I've got M1 15w50 in my B2600i for this OCI.
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