switching to synthetic grease..is there a process?

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Hi guys,

I've been thinking about running synthetic grease.

Is there a process to switching, or can I just add the new stuff as usual.

This will be tie rods, ball joints etc.... Is there a benefit?
 
peronally, I don't see the point (or benefits)of replacing(repacking) proper ball joint/tie rod end grease with syn.

Again, my subjective opinion (I'm opinionated to begin with).

Q.

p.s. no use trying to extend the life of a poorly manufactured/hardened ball joints or tie-rod ends for they will still fail on you prematurely even after you switched to syn grease. I've seen too many domestic vehicles (incl. domestically built imports) sub-par parts failing prematurely. Blame it anyway you want but ultimately it's the auto manufacturer to blame for: they let the lowest priced bidder to provide parts for their vehicles and these suppliers have to cut corners somewhere.....
 
Sounds like youve been bitten!

I may actually leave this stuff in. Its a castrol grease, and has been good.

I offroad occasionally, and usually add a little grease after every trip.
 
There should be no worry switching to synthetic if it has the same thickener base as the old grease. Chances are both are lithium based.
 
Just make sure the grease is Lithium-Complex, EP #2 for most automotive applications. I am a big believer in using a quality synthetic engine oil, transfer case fluid, differential and transmission fluids, BUT for grease, my use is Chevron Delo for agriculture applications, Amsoil HD whenever moly is specified, and Mystik JT-6 HT for universal joints and greasable wheel bearings. Any of the 3 are excellent for chassis fittings. I simply do not see any benefits in synthetic grease for automotive-type usage. I realize the Amsoil Moly is synthetic and I find it to be excellent grease, but I see no particular benefit to it being synthetic...it's just fairly easy for me to find & purchase.
 
Ryan 2022,

Process for changeing or switching greases, wheel bearings you will probably clean up the bearings and wheels so then add the new grease. Other parts you need to flush or add the new grease until you see fresh grease. Now what Kestas says is true. If the thickener types are the same..Lithium Complex (especially for disc brakes wheel bearings) then no problem. But if you are switching out a Polyurea with a Lithium Complex then problems, vice versa. They don't mix. Here when regreasing the tie rod ends for example you have to regrease sooner than normal in order to clean out the mixture that may be there.
 
Thanks Grease guy.

Something tells me this is going to be greasy
20.gif


I might just grease them until fresh syn grease comes out.

That way I'll know for sure. I'm starting to think there is a benefit. We get the odd COLD snap here in the winter. I figure, its easier on the boots, and the parts with plyable grease at -20 or so.

Ryan
 
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